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Old 02-02-2004, 12:05 AM   #1 (permalink)
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U-joint sizes

I've been looking for clarification on 1310, 1330 and 1350 size U-joints. Can someone give me some input and / or dimension specs. on these? Did Ford use anything other than 1310 on Mustangs & Cougars?

I'm shopping for an aftermarket Yoke that's a 1350, and need to know which conversion U-joint to get but I'm not sure how to tell what I've got. My driveshaft is a hybrid of '67 Mustang and '91 Mustang as part of the 5.0 / AOD conversion, so I'm not sure which parts came from which year Mustang.

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[ This Message was edited by: kewolfe on 2/2/04 12:08pm ]
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Old 02-02-2004, 05:17 AM   #2 (permalink)
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U-joint sizes

I not sure if they used anything other than than 1310 joints on them, perhaps the big block stuff had the 1330 uni-joints?? A quick measure will soon tell you what you've got, a 1310 uni is 3 7/32" wide and the caps are 1 1/16" diameter, the 1330 is 3 5/8" wide with 1 1/16 caps and the 1350 is also 3 5/8" wide but has 1 3/16" dia caps. There are also sorts of "hybrid" uni joints available, so you can get a joint to fit say a 1350 pinion yoke and a 1330 driveshaft end yoke or whatever. There is also the odd 1310 and 1330 unit that has 1 1/8" caps.
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Old 02-02-2004, 10:51 AM   #3 (permalink)
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U-joint sizes

Most of the Ford (anything with a Big block) HP engines were equipped, from the factory, with 1330 U-joints and large diameter driveshafts. As always, after the cars have been on the road for a while, anything can happen. So, take the above advice...measure what you have first. What are you building that won't be held by a 1330 U-Joint, a rock crawler Off-road Bronco is where I would expect to see that...maybe a 7-8 sec bracket racer?

The 1350 U-joints, aren't they OEM on trucks?, are not something you will find on your average passenger car. What is it you are trying to do. If you really need the peace of mind of a 1350 U-joint and are going for an upgrade driveshaft, isn't it easier to just have the rear saddle changed to take a 1350 and purchase a transmission yoke that will take a 1350? That way you don't have to worry about finding a hybrid?

I realize it will probably cost more, but if you are upgrading now, seems like this is as cheap as the swap will ever be. If you do it later, then you have to throw away the old stuff.

I am not questioning your thinking, just wondering if there is something I need to look at too?

[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 2/2/04 10:59pm ]
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Old 02-02-2004, 01:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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U-joint sizes

What is it I'm trying to do?? 1350 joints are pretty heavy duty stuff, if you've got 1000+hp you need em, if not 1330 will more than handle what you've got. Why do you want a 1350 yoke?
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Old 02-02-2004, 11:00 PM   #5 (permalink)
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U-joint sizes

Thanks for the info on U-joints.

I'm rebuilding a '69 Cougar 9" rearend to replace the 8" in my '67 Fastback. I had assumed I'd have to shorten the driveshaft about an inch, but then I discovered that the stock yoke on this 9" is actually about an inch longer than most (and it's got a pretty good groove where the oil seal runs). Looking at the Strange Engineering "S" series parts, I found their "S" series yoke to be one inch shorter than the stock one, and it's a 1350 series.

I'm sure 1310 and 1330 are available at the same length, but I thought I might as well go with the strongest one available right now. Later when I've got more money to burn I'll be doing a TKO / aluminum driveshaft & 331 stroker, so the 1350 U-joint will make more sense then and will only require a new standard 1350 U-joint to make it work.
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Old 02-03-2004, 01:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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U-joint sizes

In all honesty, I think I'd stick with the 1330. Why? They are PLENTY strong enough for what your talking, yokes are plentiful and cheap - long ones/short ones - whatever, as are the the joints themselves. Bigger yokes and uni's are heavier as well. Hey, the choice is yours but to me I can't see the point of the extra $$ and added hassles of going bigger if you don't need it
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Old 02-03-2004, 02:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Something else, a 1350 slip yoke is close to impossible to find for a Ford.
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Old 02-03-2004, 04:14 AM   #8 (permalink)
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U-joint sizes

So,what are the limits of the 1310 uni..Will they hold up for street/strip 520 bigblock...
I have used 1310 uni's with 460's and never had a problem..Is it necessary to go to the bigger uni's with the stroker
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Old 02-03-2004, 11:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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U-joint sizes

After 400 or so passes and 24 years of use I finally broke my rear end flange a few weeks back... Was a stock 1310 series yoke and drivline. In talking with my drivline guy he guaranteed I would not break my new shaft with 1330 joints. I have about 400 rwhp and 1.5 short times. In my opinion the cost of the 1350 yokes are not necessary until you reach 650-700 hp.

[ This Message was edited by: 1970DRAGSTANG on 2/3/04 11:09pm ]
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Old 02-03-2004, 01:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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U-joint sizes

I did read a rating somewhere and I'm sure it was 1310 - 600hp and 1330 700hp. There was no rating for the 1350 (or should I say, the 1350 was not listed). And we all know about "ratings", they handle more than that.....
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