Is there a place that i can send these E7's to and get them ported at a reasonable price?Im talking just ported no valve jobs or anything else we can do that at school.
I would look up a book or two which shows how to do it yourself. I know that Car Craft has articles on this in their web archives. I think that having a shop do it and having them take their time and do it right will set you back enough $ that for a bit more you could by some aftermarket aluminum heads. But I understand that with a little practice (on some throw away junkyard heads first), you can do it yourself, save a lot of money, and make a lot of power.
I ported a set of old '69 302 heads and if I had it to do all over, I would have gotten a set of aftermarket heads. Just to grind out the thermactor bump in each exhaust port takes forever. I did bowl blending too which is easier, but still very time consuming. I am not saying don't do it, but be prepared for a lot of work. You will go thru many cartridge rolls and it makes an absolute mess. If you do do it, get the Standard Abrasives kit. It has just about all you'll need except if you want to do more extensive porting or gasket matching of your intake. I think if you go to the Standard Abrasives website, they have a complete instruction guide which is excellent. You do learn a lot about heads when you port them because you can see where most of the restrictions are and then either grind then out, clean them up or polish them.
I agree - if you have to pay someone to port the heads, go buy some aftermarket items. Even with the Edelbrocks, you'll be $$$ ahead if you have to do the whole thing (valve job, stainless valves, screw in studs, etc.) Else gather information off the net, get some carbide bits and have at it. I've got about 80 hours in my heads - for a relatively mild port job. Figure a pro is going to take 10~20hrs at $40+ /hr.
I would like to learn but unfortunately no one here wants to show me or they dont know.I wish some one knew how to do it and lived close on top of not having a problem spending some time showing me how to do it.
I will second the fact that it is a messy pain. I took out the smog humps on an old set of 302 heads and that was bad, but I have a set of Dove heads that I started a long time ago one head looks pretty good the other one is untouched.
I too would like to find someone good at a fair price to send my top pro-lines to over the winter.
go to the cylinder head porting forum - look at "midly ported e7te vs 351w"
there is a link in there for a company that has a video on porting e7 heads.
Buy a GOOD GRINDER and double cut carbide burrs and it won't take long. Get yourself COMFORTABLE and have lots of good lighting - listen to a race on TV. It is rewarding when you are done. Look at the website DIYporting.com for examples. And really removing the thermactor bump did not pickup flow that much. About 80% of the flow inprovements are in the bowl and valve job. You don't need to hog out a lot
It still is not worth it, especially when they are selling Edelbrock Vic Jr knock offs on ebay for like 540 set bare.
_________________
1964 fairlane 326
1986 thunderbird 302
1992 mustang lx couple "future 393 project"
1997 F350 psd 4x4
"all my children above"
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: mrtbolt64 on 10/27/04 3:06am ]</font>
I wouldnt use a victor jr head on his motor. Morgan International Race Engines. In maryland did the work on my old DOOE 351 heads.They do alot of head work for the FE guys that race NHRA and IHRA stock and super stock class.
_________________
79 pace car
80 cobra
84 mercury capri
97 merecury mountaineer 5.0
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: tonys10sec306 on 10/27/04 3:19am ]</font>
On 2004-10-26 09:08, TALON wrote:
Good Morning GMKiller
go to the cylinder head porting forum - look at "midly ported e7te vs 351w"
there is a link in there for a company that has a video on porting e7 heads.
Buy a GOOD GRINDER and double cut carbide burrs and it won't take long. Get yourself COMFORTABLE and have lots of good lighting - listen to a race on TV. It is rewarding when you are done. Look at the website DIYporting.com for examples. And really removing the thermactor bump did not pickup flow that much. About 80% of the flow inprovements are in the bowl and valve job. You don't need to hog out a lot
Are people using dremel tools to port heads? I completely ported a set of '70 351w heads in 12 hours and that included the time to dykem the heads and scribe the new outline and to match the ports. I used a air powered die grinder and a couple of carbide bits. The thermactor humps were about 5-10 minutes a piece before they were gone. It had been a while since I ported heads so if I were to do it again in the near future while things are fresh in my mind, it would probably take 10 hours or less. Start with the right tools and the job will be that much easier.
By the way, unless your looking for every last tiny bit of flow, don't spend a lot of time polishing exhaust ports...the contribution to flow is only a few percent. The die grinder followed by a sanding roll here and there gets them smoother than they were stock. Don't use anything more than 80-100 grit sanding rolls on the intakes. Leave 'em rough to keep fuel atomized.
If you port match an aluminum intake manifold, you can use carbide bits on that too, but reduce the air pressure to the die grinder to 30-40 psi to slow things down and the bit won't clog as much. They also sell special carbide bits for aluminum too.
By the way to answer your question, i'd call powerheads.com and see if they will just port your heads if you prefer to have someone else do it.
_________________
Tracy Blackford: Corona, Ca
'65 FB Mustang 331 with H-beam 289 rods, KB 322's, 282S cam, fully preped 351W heads. Built C4 and 3.50 9" posi
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: blkfrd on 10/29/04 1:18am ]</font>
I'm just about finished porting my first set of heads (e7's), and it was a blast. I got the heads for $99 on eBay, then bought a Japanese die-grinder for $20, also on eBay, a light-dimmer switch (to control the rpms--you want to keep a 25,000-rpm grinder using carbide bits at about half-speed) at Home Depot for $15, and then a set of three six-inch carbide bits from Summit for $50 (and you can get those cheaper on eBay, too). I printed out the porting article on this site (which is great) and that was it! I spaced out the work over a pretty long period of time, doing the intake ports on one head one weekend, then the exhaust ports on the other head on another weekend, etc., and it really became second-nature pretty quickly. And now I'm just about ready to take them to the machinist for the valve job and some 1.94/1.60 valves.
I highly recommend doing them yourself, especially if you're willing to give yourself a good amount of time. It's very satisfying.
Those should run well in place of ported E7TE heads
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 89 coupe on 11/13/04 2:53pm ]</font>
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum
950.5K posts
72K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to Ford performance owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about popular models such as the Mustang, Galaxie, Falcon, Fairlane, Torino, Shelby and many more!