Now that the block has been repaired, it's time to reassemble! In the past I have used a Moly Assembly Lube for everthing, bearings, lifters, camshft, thrust plates etc. I decided to run a search on engine assembly lube and I get all kinds of do's and dont's, some say use motoroil, some say don't use moly, some say use STP. Lets get some input on this from the Pros!
I am far from pro also, but I like the moly stuff for places where you don't want the other stuff running off (cam lobes, lifters, etc.) But for things like distributor gears, the comp cams assembly lube stuff is great.
I use Lubriplate on all main and rod bearings. (and valve stems) (White lithium grease.) Me, my dad, and his dad all swear by the stuff.
Never used the "RedLine" have heard of using plain old Lithium Grease but this is the 21st century and technolgy should have come up with "Perfect" assembly lube or maybe the tried and true lubes are still the best
I used Lubriplate on my last 472. Took the valve covers off a year later @1000miles and the lubriplate could still be seen on certain places in the head undissolved! Sat there like clumps. I refuse to use it again. 30 weight oil on the bearings, prime the system before firing, comp cams moly grease on the base of the lifters and on the lobes, not the journals and finally a can of GM EOS (engine oil supplement) as there is very little moly in todays oils due to the popularity of roller engines.
Just my .02 worth.
Have heard of using the GM additive (EOS) for break in, also have heard that the hydraulic roller lifter don't like moly. (I think it's because the roller don't roll) (I think my HD has the same problem with a non rolling roller using synthetic oil) but that's another story. Maybe the best combination will be the moly lube and GM Additive. Has anyone tried KY Jelly
I used to use a mix of STP and motor oil THEN I read that STP is not really a true lubricant (whatever that means.) I have also had great success using Lubriplate. As others has stated, now I use moly lube and GM EOS.
I like the Torco MPZ assembly lube on the bearings and just straight engine oil on the rings. I don't use any white grease on anything other than the rear main seal as this grease tends not to dissolve with the oil and will stop up an oil filter. If the engine is set up for any long period of time before being cranked up, white assembly grease also has a tendency to get crusty or dry out so as to speak. Although I do like the moly lube on flat tappet camshafts, I have also found residuals of this in the oil filters. For roller camshafts, I use an oil based assembly lube versus moly lube on both the camshafts and the lifters.
Just my thoughts on the subject.
Big Motors are Fast but low 9.60\'s @ 135+ mph with a \"Y\" is just plain fun.
Assembly lube on all the bearings, cam, and lifters (flat tappet). Oil on the timing set. Valve stems, valve guides, pistons, rings, and cylinder walls...dry. Yes, dry, but with a coating Tungsten Disulfide.
I use WHITE LITHIUM grease in all the Chebbies I do... Even the rods and mains.....
I use it in my Ford cranks and rods as well, but generally use assembly lube and engine oil when assembling mopars......
White lithium grease (Lubriplate) is fine if you are going to fire it up right away, but let it sit for a few months, and it gets HARD and turns into stiff goo.... which is NOT something you want in your engine. It doesn't dissolve and go away if it has sat too long, either.
I use Redliine assembly lube on everything but the cam and the bottom of the lifters. For the cam, I use moly wheel bearing grease. (the black stuff) No problems so far.
I'm glad I'm not the only one that has had problems with Lubriplate especially when the engine sat. And yes, when I cut the oil filter apart on my fresh 472 (which sat for over 6 months on the stand) the lubriplate was in the filter in clumps.
I'm sure lubriplate is a fine assembly lube if the engine is fired right away as the previous forum members have stated.