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Old 08-13-2005, 12:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

After installing a shift kit in my c-4 transmission, the kickdown on the tranny is holding me back from reaching full throttle. I un-hooked it and let the cable dangle, and it seemed to drive okay...can I leave it like this just for a couple days? and what is wrong that won't let the kickdown lever turn to full throttle?
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Old 08-13-2005, 12:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

Well id feel more safe just taking it off the car so ti does not get in the way at all but yeah taking it off is no problem at all
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Old 08-13-2005, 12:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

What is wrong with it you think? did I not install the valve body correctly?

Also, just what does the kickdown do?
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\'67 Mustang Coupe, 289ci
Factory 289 Block
Holley 600 cfm vac-sec. on Performer intake with 1\" open spacer
Crane XR-i Ignition, Hooker comp headers
C-4 tranny w/transgo kit and cooler
8\" rear end w/3.55:1 Locking gears
Shelby upper control arm drop (1\")
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Old 08-13-2005, 02:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

it raises the internal hydralic pressure to allow the tighter clamping force on the bands, clutches...which give crisper, harder shifts.

When you remove the kick-down, you may run the transmission at higher pressure all the time, even when it isn't needed...like cruising down to the local candy store an the transmission wears out the soft parts quicker. That means you get harsh engagement even at low speeds, like the differece between slipping the clutch or dumping the clutch in a manual shift transmission. Unless your transmission was setup for competition only, it's not the best solution. Or it runs at normal pressuer all the time, even when you are accelerating, which allows more slippage. The shift kit controls pressure, usually increasing it so you get "scratch" in the forward gears.

You will increase the life of your transmission with the kickdown and get smoother shifts at part throttle. Your car, your decision. You know your driving style better than anyone.

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[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 8/14/05 2:19am ]
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Old 08-13-2005, 05:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

In an automatic transmission, the harder and faster it shifts, the longer the clutches will live. If your tranny shifts smoothly between gears, it's actually slipping more.
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Old 08-13-2005, 07:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

I run my car without the kickdown rod to save gasolene.. The shift kit still gives me positive shifts. No problems with it .

Ray
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Old 08-13-2005, 08:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

After getting my carb back from Bigs the c6 kick down lever was doing the same thing yours is doing.More so it prevented the throttle from returning.I have been running without the kick down since and see/feel no dif.I did tie up the lever on the trans so it doesn't move.
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Old 08-14-2005, 05:33 AM   #8 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

All the kickdown is used for is when you hammer it, it drops the tranny into the next lowest gear. It is for passing and such. Just cruising along with normal acceleration, the kickdown is never used. It "kicks" the tranny down a gear to get the RPMs up so you can pass easier, hence the name kickdown.
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Old 08-14-2005, 07:45 AM   #9 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

Quote:
On 2005-08-13 19:46, rayell wrote:
I run my car without the kickdown rod to save gasolene.
I would like to hear what kind of MPG change you saw by doing this as I need to save $$$ on gas.
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Old 08-14-2005, 08:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

no doubt every experience is different. Maybe a little light reading from others that had different perspective, will broaden the knowledge base? As I said, your car, your choice. I've run full autoshift C-6's both ways, the ones wth kickdown active last longer, without internal freshening*.

* your mileage may vary

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/ar...816-Sick%20C-6

Quote:
Yes i have a C6 transmission out of a 1986 Econoline. I got the 351HO and the tranny and put them straight into my 1979 F100. I had done some minor bolt on to the motor and put a B&M Shift kit in the tranny. Well when i started driving it, it would shift too soon out of first and seemed like it would just go to third too fast and wouldn't shift right. The modulator valve had no effect. And it had plenty of fluid. Well i would put it in second to take off then shift into third when i got up to speed. A couple of days ago i noticed that when i barly gave any gas while in second it would jam down into first. It would be in second while decceleration and while the motor wasn't reving. I don't have a kickdown rod. Well today i came home from school and i may have spun a tire a little bit. but not anymore than usual and i didn't over rev or anything. Well i got it home and it set for about a hour. Then i got it in to go to work and fired it up and heard a whining noise. I couldn't quite hear where it was coming from. Then i put it in drive and it just started whining louder. when you give it alot of gas it would move but barly. Second and First was the same way. Now when i put it in reverse it goes just fine. SO reverse works but none of the forward gears. I put some more fluid in it to be sure it had enough and still no difference. I am pretty sure the shift kit was installed properly. Can anyone tell me the problem or any help. any would be great. Thank You


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

xxxxxxx
No forward gears, sounds like forward clutch problems. I believe an overhaul is in your future. If the tranny was shifting early after installing the shift-kit and not before, there may be a problem with the install causing low pressure upshifts (damaging the forward clutch). Are you sure the pin is behind the modulator valve? I'm afraid it's to late for any external fixes, it's all an inside job now.
http://lists.twistedpair.ca/pipermai...ry/020966.html

Quote:
xxxx, xxx is right, TCI is feeding you hooey. I ran my 460/C-6 for four years without a kick down rod. The one that was on the car I got the trans from was to short to fit the higher intake and Holley carb. The kick down besides causing the trans to grab a lower gear also under full throttle keeps it in gear until a higher rpm is reached. Mine would up shift at 4500 in drive. Far short of the 6500 the trans shop calibrated it at. If you were to lug the engine a great deal while in third at low speeds you'd probably over heat the engine first. The trans would also eventual fail due to the heat. If you could describe better the conditions on which it would lock up. Did it lock up and stay that way or does it do it going into a gear, does it do it going into a gear for a second then work right? BTW if the clutches were burnt the trans would slip, NOT lock up. The problem you have with it staying in third when you slow to make a turn is in the governor. It's probably sticky.
Quote:
I did the transmission swap from the Cruise -O-Matic to the TCI C6 transmission on my 64 galaxie 500. Every thing worked for about a week and then it Started to lock up going down the road and thus leaving the passengers as hood ornaments! I took the trans back out and sent it to TCI. They Dyno tested transmission and determine the clutch bands to be burned up.They replaced them and now it is back for
>Installation. The problem is that I am getting conflicting information. The local transmission shop that put it in the first time say's that it does not need the kick-down linkage but TCI
said that that is what burned-up the bands in the first place.????????????

Of the one's of you guys that have made this swap did you
use a Auto/manual valve body transmission or a full manual valve body transmission?

The reason I ask this is the Tech from TCI said If I can't find a kick down linkage for a 390 to C6 1966 thru 70 (I currently am looking for if any of you have a spare setup to sale).That I could go with a full manuel valve body (for additional 175.00) and bypass using the kick down altogether.
If any can help with this I would be grateful because this was my daily driver up until about three weeks ago and rental car business has gotten rather expensive at a 170.00 a week.

[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 8/14/05 8:30pm ]

[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 8/14/05 8:43pm ]
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Old 08-14-2005, 11:13 AM   #11 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

I posted the question at a good trans forum I visit and got this http://www.network54.com/Forum/threa...eid=1124037961
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Old 08-14-2005, 11:53 AM   #12 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

Well, that solves everything. If Stuart says so, that ends the debate.

Guess its time to move on to the next controversy:

Single four barrel or dual four barrels?

Stick or auto, which is best for drag racing?
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Old 08-14-2005, 02:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

The way that I save gas is; When a chebby driver see,s the 427 emblem on the front fenders of a Galaxie; he will automaticly come up beside you to find out if he can outrun you, with his Camaro.

Without the kickdown, I resist the urge to show my azz, and he can't pass me anytime he wants to. My kickdown rod was adjusted to down**** at near WOT, and that opened the secondaries on the carb. and dumped gas big time.

Now I ride in style, and just laugh at them.
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Old 08-14-2005, 02:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

Beoweolf not sure if I smell sarcasm in your post but for what its worth the people on that site are very knowledgeable as far as transmissions go.I don't take everything I read on the net as Gospel but I have gotten reliable info from there.
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Old 08-14-2005, 06:29 PM   #15 (permalink)
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transmission kick down, can I just un-hook it?

What you read was the end of my comment on a circular discussion. Since the issue, at this point hinges on preference and individual experiences, there is no definative resolution possible.

As with all things automotive, the only real proof is in results. If it works for the OP (either way), then he chose wisely, if not; try something else. At least he has different views and some historical documentation from others.

You can beat a dead horse, but it still ain't going to move.
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