How to install Heads? - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum

MusclePoney · 04-10-2008, 06:10 AM

I need to replace my head gasket, I'll use the fel-pro 1011-2 gasket (Fel-Pro Performance 1011-2 - Fel-Pro Performance Head Gaskets - summitracing.com ) and ARP- 154-3601 bolts (ARP 154-3601 - ARP High Performance Series Cylinder Head Bolt Kits - summitracing.com), I found pepole recommending to torque the bolts anywhere between 65ft to 100ft, What is right?

Is there a specific sequence for the head bolts?

Should I use thread sealer on the bolts like blue\red Loctite?

Do I need to retorque or torqueing in steps (30ft, 50ft, 70ft......) will be enough?

This is the firs time I'm replacing head gasket so any other recommendation for the process will be appreciated!

Thanks!

jrosengarth · 04-10-2008, 08:19 AM

The maximum torque value for your head bolts depends on who made them. If they are OEM bolts and they have been on the vehicle for a decade or more, you really should replace them. If they are newer OEM, or made by someone like ARP, then they should have come with a torque spec sheet.

The amount of torque you put on the bolt also depends on whether you are using a thread lube like the ARP grease, or just dipping them in oil. For ARP studs on a 302, the torque using ARP moly grease is 70 ft-lbs, using 30w oil is 85 ft-lbs! That's a pretty big difference.

The bolts that are open to the water passage in the engine block (usually the 5 outboard bolts on Ford engines) put some red RTV on the threads to seal any leaks. Torque those with the numbers you would use if you dipped them in oil. DO NOT use locktite! This is one reason I like using studs. I can put sealer where needed on the threads going into the block, but it doesn't effect my final torque numbers since I'm just turning the nut at the top of the stud.

When torquing head bolts/studs I always do it in three steps. I shoot for 40 ft-lbs first, then half way to the target torque, then the final torque to spec. Always torque the bolts in the manufacturer recommended pattern. That is different for many engines, and can easily be found in a shop manual or online for your particular engine.
-J

Bumblebee · 04-10-2008, 08:32 AM

Hey Roy

1st step... Drain the cooling system. Obviously you have to remove the intake and exhaust from the engine, then loosen the valve train. Take the heads bolts off and remove the heads. Clean ALL the gasketing material from the heads and the block being careful not to get all the crud into the cylinders and lifter valley. Scraping the gasket surfaces with a razor blade works well. A bunch of clean shop rags in these areas helps to keep them clean. If removing the distributor then put a shop rag in that hole too to keep crud out.

Send the heads out for the head work and inspection and inspect the block and cylinders. I doubt you will find anything nasty When reinstalling the heads make sure the dowels are in place in the block to locate the heads. I use permatex copper cote spray on my head gaskets but if you don't have it available then no worries. Make sure the block and cylinders are free from any contaminates and that the shop rags used earlier are removed. Place the head gaskets on the block with the marking for "top" facing you. Make sure all of the holes line up (there is a right and a wrong way ). Clean off the surface of the head that mates to the block of any contaminates and line it up on the block. Carefully line up the head on the dowels and lower gently into place.... dont let it slam into the gasket. Put the head bolts in and tighten them finger tight. (Are you using new head bolts?????).

Next torque them in 10-15 lb increments starting out with about 30 ft lbs and work your way up (30-45-60-72) until you get to the to the correct torque specifications the Chiltons manual calls for 65-72 ft lbs (72 will be your final adjustment).

Torque sequence is as follows:

.......________________________________________
...../.................................................. ...............\
.../.................................................. ..................\
../........9........5...........1............3....... ....7.............\
./.................................................. .......................\
\______________________________________________/
|........10........6............2............4.... .......8............|
|_____________________________________________|

Remember when reinstalling the intake to use a thin layer of permatex on the water passages of the gasket (both sides) and to use a good bead of permatex instead of the cork end seals (put on a thick bead on the block for both front and rear end seals... wait 20-30 minutes for it to skim then place the intake on.) Torque the intake in the same manner as the head (in increments) intake torque specs are 23-25 ft lbs.

__....... / \____
|6 \___/ .....5 .\
| ...................|
|4................1 |
| ...................|
|.. ________. ..|
|12|...........|.9|
| ..| ( ) ( ) .|. .|
|10| ( ) ( )..|11|
| .|________| .|
|................... |
| 2...............3 |
| ...................|
| 8...............7 |
|_____________|

Good Luck and have fun with it MP... By the way... You can use a thread sealer on the head bolts but I would stay away from stuff like locktite.

Keith/Bumble

Bumblebee · 04-10-2008, 08:44 AM

CRAP!!!!

Spend all that time making diagrams and they screw up when you post!!!!

OK MP

Head bolts are (with the valve cover on top)

,9,,,5, 1, 3, 7
10, 6, 2, 4, 8

intake bolts are as follows with the water neck on top

6,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,5
4,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,1
12,,,,,,,,,,,,,9
10,,,,,,,,,,,,,11
2,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,3
8,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,7

By the way, I agree with Jrosengarth, if your head bolts came with a different torque spec use theirs not the ones I gave you.

I will try and edit the original post and fix the diagrams

keith/Bumble

Bumblebee · 04-10-2008, 08:56 AM

HAH!!!! Got it (see post below!!!)

frdnut · 04-10-2008, 10:25 AM

I would phone ARP and ask about the bolt torque numbers...I got a tip from Dennis111 that the values had been increased so I just phoned myself to check...I have the 1543603 1/2 inch bolts for a 351 Windsor and the specs in the box from last summer say 75 ft/lbs when using moly with aluminium heads or 85 ft/lbs with cast iron heads..Without moly and using 30 wieght engine oil the torque was increased to a whopping 130 with no reference to aluminium or iron heads....The tech guy just told me to run the bolts at 95 lbs with moly or 130 using oil...I asked him if that was for aluminium or cast iron and he said it doesn't make a difference anymore there is just one spec...

dennis111 · 04-10-2008, 01:52 PM

Frdnut, is correct in that the ARP head bolt values have changed across the board. All are now based upon your head manufacturer's specs.

According to the OP's choice of bolts, he has a 289/302 which will not be torqued as high as the 351w blocks specs that were quoted. Just don't want to see those new 7/16" head bolts overtorqued.

ckelly · 04-10-2008, 02:30 PM

Torque is based strictly on fastener material and what is necessary to stretch the fastener to insure proper clamping force. Doesn't matter if the underlying material is hard or soft. I always use ARP moly, the engine oil specs are always way up there. If you just go get the ARP catalog PDF file, look up your fastener and material and they have a chart that lists the torque.

retyler · 04-10-2008, 02:32 PM

Sometimes you will find that you have three different specs to contend with. The bolt mfg. the gasket mfg. and the motor mfg. In most cases I would go with the gasket maker, and often they use Fords specs. If not I go with the gasket mfg. or the head mfg. specs. not with the bolt maker.

One thing to add to Bumbles post, The gaskets are marked front. Make sure the 'front' on the gasket is facing towards the front of the motor. This often means that one of the gaskets will appear to be upside down. This doesn't matter. Just follow the instructions.
On the bolts that go into water(5.0 blocks only) I use a liquid high temp Teflon sealer. You can find it at most plumbing supply stores. It is also good for the intake bolts. I have talked to some builders that use the Teflon tape. I don't use it.

Since you are replacing the bolts, cut the heads off a couple of the long ones (old ones) and screw them in the end holes on the exhaust side of the motor. (finger tight only) This will make it much easier aligning and setting the head on the block.

Good luck.

MusclePoney · 04-12-2008, 07:34 PM

Hey Guy's!
Sorry for the delay, had a family obligation this weekend....
I got the pack yesterday, like frdnut and dennis111 wrote the ARP bolts has it's specs in the box...
it is 5:30 AM where I am, wrote all of your good advice and I'm taking it with me to my mechanic, hold your fingers for me.... I'll post an update when I'll be back.
Thank you all!
Roy.

retyler · 04-13-2008, 07:45 AM

I would think your mechanic would know how to change heads.

MusclePoney · 04-13-2008, 10:38 AM

American cars, spatialy Ford cars are a rare thing where I live, my mec knows his job but he is not dealing with Fords since he lived in the U.S about 15 years ago.... I thought it will be a good idea to be prepared...