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Old 12-03-2011, 02:33 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

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Originally Posted by FEandGoingBroke View Post
The CAM cannot make OIL get into the Water, only a head gasket leak or an Intake gasket leak can accomplish this.
On a 400 the intake can't cause water in the oil. There's no water flow in the intake on a 351M/400.
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Old 12-03-2011, 09:50 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

I was speaking in terms of ALL engines more or less, my Inline 6 don't even have an intake manifold so same for it, but my words were a generalization.
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Old 12-03-2011, 11:18 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

So I took a vid of my vac gauge at about 1000 rpm or so: random cars :: 1500rpmvac.mp4 video by red-tail1 - Photobucket

I deleted all of the emissions controls and blocked off the egr, hooked up the bare bones of vac lines, took my carb off and put new base gaskets in, cleaned the carb too, and adjusted the idle jets to 1 and 1/2 turns out (and after all that, I took the vid of the vac gauge).


I did check the push rods, all of the slack rods seemed to be in good adjustment. slight resistance when you spin them, but no free spinning.

Last edited by redtail; 12-03-2011 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 12-04-2011, 12:03 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

17" lbs and a little shimmy.... There is a little timing adjustment you could make to smooth that out I think and even bring it up to 18 or 19" of vacuum.

The pushrods sound like they're what they are supposed to be.

Why are you worried about a flat cam lobe? I don't get it...

Did I overlook something in your thread about a misfire or something like no compression that would make someone think you had a flat lobe?
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:43 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

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Originally Posted by redtail View Post
So I took a vid of my vac gauge at about 1000 rpm or so: random cars :: 1500rpmvac.mp4 video by red-tail1 - Photobucket

I deleted all of the emissions controls and blocked off the egr, hooked up the bare bones of vac lines, took my carb off and put new base gaskets in, cleaned the carb too, and adjusted the idle jets to 1 and 1/2 turns out (and after all that, I took the vid of the vac gauge).


I did check the push rods, all of the slack rods seemed to be in good adjustment. slight resistance when you spin them, but no free spinning.
dont look for something your never going to get , that is not a new engine .

now the EGR is inop. , be very carefull with advancing the timing .might have to retard it for mid rpm heavy load
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Old 12-04-2011, 09:42 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

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Originally Posted by FEandGoingBroke View Post
17" lbs and a little shimmy.... There is a little timing adjustment you could make to smooth that out I think and even bring it up to 18 or 19" of vacuum.

The pushrods sound like they're what they are supposed to be.

Why are you worried about a flat cam lobe? I don't get it...

Did I overlook something in your thread about a misfire or something like no compression that would make someone think you had a flat lobe?

On the cam, someone mentioned I should check to make sure I don't have a less than full lift intake or exh cyl, which might casue a miss like this.

to get it to smooth out it very much, it needs to be advasnced like 30, and then it won't rev properly. (I will check again,, but I think that is what it did)

I will take a vid of the exh when it is idling, it might give you a better idea.
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Old 12-04-2011, 11:37 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

Red, with all your EGR stuff and vacuum disconnected the stock Vacuum advance and the curve of that Dist will NOT work properly. There are Thermal ports on the intake that change the way the advance works according to temperature and other things, I suggest that you get your dist figured out as to it's mech. adv and what RPM it comes in at and find out where you have your vacuum coming into play, ad idle or when throttle opens.

Your engine should run fine out of gear with mechanical vacuum only.

But as Dan said it's old so don't expect too much out of it.

And on another note... Please explain to me your miss and how and when it comes into play when running the engine.
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Old 12-04-2011, 11:59 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

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Red, with all your EGR stuff and vacuum disconnected the stock Vacuum advance and the curve of that Dist will NOT work properly. There are Thermal ports on the intake that change the way the advance works according to temperature and other things, I suggest that you get your dist figured out as to it's mech. adv and what RPM it comes in at and find out where you have your vacuum coming into play, ad idle or when throttle opens.

Your engine should run fine out of gear with mechanical vacuum only.

But as Dan said it's old so don't expect too much out of it.

And on another note... Please explain to me your miss and how and when it comes into play when running the engine.

How do I fix that curve issue? But when it is hot, wouldn't it act the same? I can always make a simple connection at one of the temp ports?

it is ported vac, so no advance until rpm, plus the mech advance. I am getting a new dist today, so I will see if anything gets better with that... but the vac bulb is the same on this as any of my other rigs...?

because when it is warm or cold, at rpm it runs pretty good.

I know what a good running engine sounds like (and a decent running high miles tired engine). I have fixed up a half dozen of these old beasts, just not a 400, lots of FE's but this is my first 400.

at idle a good running stock engine should have a humming drone of v8 loveliness. a steady hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm with a slight rumble of big CI and glasspacks. this engine however has a stutter between that good sound. like Hmm*putut*hm*putut**puft*hmmmm*pupth*pupft*hmmm... I will get some footage of this.

Last edited by redtail; 12-04-2011 at 12:04 PM.
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:13 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

I put on a new dist, coil, ig contol unit, cap, roter, and it still runs bad. I set the timing about 15 and went out, it had lots of power, but was pinging like a MOFO long story short, after retarding and advancing it a few times (it would ping, or have a dead spot from a dead stop) and finally about a 1/4 mile from home it kept dying whenever I took my foot off the gas. So I called it a night and just thought I would update y'all.

Ok, here is a vid of the idle at the tailpipes: http://s898.photobucket.com/albums/a...nt=idlevid.mp4

Last edited by redtail; 12-04-2011 at 06:19 PM.
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:21 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

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Originally Posted by redtail View Post
I put on a new dist, coil, ig contol unit, cap, roter, and it still runs bad. I set the timing about 15 and went out, it had lots of power, but was pinging like a MOFO long story short, after retarding and advancing it a few times (it would ping, or have a dead spot from a dead stop) and finally about a 1/4 mile from home it kept dying whenever I took my foot off the gas. So I called it a night and just thought I would update y'all.

Ok, here is a vid of the idle at the tailpipes: random cars :: idlevid.mp4 video by red-tail1 - Photobucket
see post #35
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Old 12-04-2011, 06:50 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

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see post #35

I know, I thought of that as I was pulling out of my driveway.

I bought a single advance dist for the '78 year, would that help? Or just be the same? any way to bypass this? different advance bulb or?
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:27 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

Well hell, that burble you see at idle is simply A/F mixtures getting buffeted around ind occasionally not hitting right according to my ear.

Could easily be a slight vacuum leak causing that also.

Could also be a sloppy timing chain doing that also... bouncing around and hitting late or early on a cylinder here and there while idling....

The timing in that "Should" work like this.

Cold Start: The thermal vacuum switch is open giving full vacuum to dist when the choke is supposed to be active and the engine cold and the idle is supposed to be up a notch or two.

THEN: When the engine warms up the Temperature activated thermal switch closes and the timing is returned to throttle activated timing meaning that there is NO vacuum when running UNLESS the throttle blades are open.

Try thinking on those terms when timing this rig with or without all that smog crap hooked up.
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Old 12-05-2011, 06:58 AM   #43 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

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Originally Posted by redtail View Post
I know, I thought of that as I was pulling out of my driveway.

I bought a single advance dist for the '78 year, would that help? Or just be the same? any way to bypass this? different advance bulb or?
have to retune the carb to pre smog .

to make it easy , get a Holley 350 cfm 2 barrel

Last edited by DanH; 12-05-2011 at 07:01 AM.
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:25 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

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have to retune the carb to pre smog .

to make it easy , get a Holley 350 cfm 2 barrel
I second this
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Old 12-05-2011, 08:56 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Re: 1978 f150 4x4 auto 400M Issues.

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I second this

I don't really have the $$ to buy a new carb for it... I already bought a rebuild kit for it... what do I have to do during the rebuild to make it run good without the smog items on it?

and when everything is warm, why is it pinging? (I assume it is pinging, becasue It soulds like a a very faint sound of someone dragging a shovel over gravel) and it only does it when I have to accelerate up aa hill or something like that... should I just back the timing off?
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