KULTULZ

Some lines are plumbed loosely as you mention but over time the body settles on the mounts (or flexed due to HI-PO) and geometry changes. This may put stress on the fittings and crack a flare.

It is just a safety measure. The idea in repairing a car is to bring it back to OEM specs or improve it altogether.

I am surprised F has not mentioned it also prevents vapor lock...

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DISCLAIMER-

The above posted information is in my opinion only. It may contain copy and paste material(s). Your opinion(s) and mileage may vary.

FEandGoingBroke

You guy's are being idiots.

Tell me ONE BRAKE SYSTEM that accumulates air in it over time? ANds specify that "Time" time frame also. This should be entertaining to say the least.

a question for EVERYONE here.....

Q: How often do your brakes get spongy due to accumulated air in your brake lines?

I have 3 years on my falconaround brake bleed and the pedal is as FIRM as Mila Jovovitch's BEHIND. IS that because all the magically appearing air bubbles self bleed out of the system when I sleep?

ANd KULTULZ, I am STILL waiting for your explanation on WHEN BRAKE FLUID BOILS and it's CAUSES...

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RAGGAREN

good luck with that....
he's still waiting on you , in regards of flow theory......

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Lars...
64 galaxie 500 2dr fastback... 390 4v, 4spd close ratio toploader, 4.11 rear..far from perfect but getting there...

KULTULZ

Quote:


Originally Posted by FEandGoingBroke

KULTULZ, I am STILL waiting for your explanation on WHEN BRAKE FLUID BOILS and it's CAUSES...


NOTE- F has been restricted again from entering my air space. LARD has chosen to allow (annoy) me to read the above post.

Are you serious F?

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DISCLAIMER-

The above posted information is in my opinion only. It may contain copy and paste material(s). Your opinion(s) and mileage may vary.

RAGGAREN

maybe so....
but i also called his attention to your earlyer question, KLUTZ.....
in regards of flow theory......

__________________
Lars...
64 galaxie 500 2dr fastback... 390 4v, 4spd close ratio toploader, 4.11 rear..far from perfect but getting there...

puttster

As OP, I was asking about air in the system that would form bubbles in high spots like the tops of loops. I guess it could come from anywhere, like from an install of a new part.

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Putts drives a 1965 four door Galaxie. Rebuilt 390. 4100 on a Performer, AC, PS, PB w scarebird front discs, COM MX transm w/3.0 R.E. The seats, dash and hood are customized.

FEandGoingBroke

Yes you child I am serious.

You said the brake fluid boils. I WANT TO KNOW WHEN THIS HAPPENS AND WHAT CAUSES IT!

Can't you understand that it is a question asking for a clarification on your OWN post where you spoke of Boiling brake fluid???

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FEandGoingBroke

Why in the hell does a brake line bending technique have to have a post about boiling brake fluid?

And WHY do you refuse to answer every one of my questions about specific comments which you personally make?

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ShotRod64

And how did brake line bending turn into just another battle of the minds or mindless or whatever it might be called? Yeah, each ignores the others question then other starts making it a point to get their attention and then before we know it, Yay, another argument that half the time has nothing to do with the original line of the thread! Google it! Google don't argue.

I'm going to say if K stated any of the info below, he would still be considered full of it right? And ignoring the rantings he is also wrong. Probably so, as it seems to be the norm these days, damned if you do, damned if you don't. But when i read boiling, my first thought was going down long hills, repetitive brake use in traffic in the summer which i've spent some long periods riding the brake just coasting down a hill in a traffic jamb and other scenarios that would cause brakes to get hot and would, i believe, cause the fluid near them to do the same. I didn't even think to ask more questions til i was blue in the face, i went and looked it up. Cause if i'm not getting an answer i'll find my own, no sense in pounding my head against a wall. Much less stressful if i do say so myself!

::: The Brick-yard :::

Brake Fluid

puttster

HaHa I was going to say Purse fight! Purse fight! but I like yours better.

__________________
When you're going through hell, keep going.
Putts drives a 1965 four door Galaxie. Rebuilt 390. 4100 on a Performer, AC, PS, PB w scarebird front discs, COM MX transm w/3.0 R.E. The seats, dash and hood are customized.

FEandGoingBroke

Putts my man, THAT is why you BLEED the brakes when you put in a new part.

There is no air after you bleed the system folks.... If there WAS air then the brake wouldn't be firm.... Gosh I gotta start a new thread this is bugging me.

Someone else got banned so I am going to begin to limit my replies in an extreme fashion so I dont' get the boot for arguing...

I really wish someone would tel me about this boiling brake fluid stuff though....

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FEandGoingBroke

When someone makes a statement I expect and answer to my question abotu that statement, a PM would have been nice but I got nothing.

Now it's a FACT that EVERY LIQUID has a boiling point.

Simply having a boiling point dont mean you're going to boil it.

If you are on your brakes so much that the fluid is about to boil you are IN DANGER.

This is NOT a normal happenstance. 284* is HOTTER THAN Hades! LOL

I for one don't apply my brakes the ENTIRE way down the mountain on a 6 mile own grade of 5 or 7%....

So I simply wanted to know when this brake line boiling occurred in normal driving like what 99% of our forum readers are doing....

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PSIG

To summarize my original post and re-focus the pertinent points - the coils are for fitting alignment. They and/or other coils or bends are also used for chassis flex, but the ones at the MC ports are primarily alignment.

Air is not a factor. Period. In hydraulics terms, this is a closed-loop system, and there are no considerations for added air, as there should be none. Air is air, and no matter where in a closed-loop system it is, it fails the system. It does not matter if it collects in the caliper, valve, line, or MC, or all over the system as dissolved air or entrained air (micro-bubbles). System fail. Where it collects or not is irrelevant, and there are no 'safety factors', as air failure is air failure.

Boiling is not a factor. Period. Boiling can occur, but it just another failure mode, and does not matter relative to a loop or high-point in the system. Boiling is a failure, and your system needs servicing for those reasons - not because you have a loop.

Higher than the MC is not a factor. Period. Again, it is a closed-loop hydraulic system. It is also a hydrostatic system, using mechanical force, converted to hydraulic transmission of force, and converted back into mechanical force to do work. Air in the system is a failure, no matter where it is - in a line loop or otherwise. If the system has proper integrity, you can run the line up around the next tree and back to your caliper and it will work fine. If air is introduced, the system fails because of air - not because the line goes "up" and then back "down". Note: We can discuss components used to help maintain long-term integrity and/or increase reliability of all-up or all-down systems (same thing) with the seal types used in typical brake systems if you like.

My 2-cents specific to your original question then, is to say you should make your loops or compound bends for the purpose(s) you need, and disregard the non-factors shown above. I'll gladly offer further explanation to the best of my professional understanding (or those of my Uber-geek co-workers), or discuss other concerns or factors to specific points if requested or prompted. The final choices for design of your system however, assuming it is non-stock, is yours. It's good to question.

David

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redtail

David, I would also like to add on to the question about the loops... wouldn't they collect air, the same as if you had run them above the MC? effectively eliminating any 'natural' bleeding? that was discussed here?

PSIG

Hawk, there is no provision for "natural bleeding" in the typical brake system. Considering all the bends, fittings and valves, there are many places for air to harbor in a joint seam, valve cavity, MC or caliper bore, or other place in virtually any system you can point to. That's why we must manually bleed them, or otherwise we could just install parts, fill the MC, and wait overnight or a week for the system to "naturally bleed".

In hydraulic circles, "natural bleeding" is normally given no consideration, as there should never be anything to bleed if it is properly designed and maintained. Abnormal operation is considered a system failure. There is no "auto-bleeding" for failures. However, service bleeding is considered, and is why bleeders are located at specific points, parts are oriented certain ways, and specific procedures are followed to remove air that is introduced during failures, maintenance or servicing.

Does that answer your question?

David

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