RickRacer

Hey guys, If I add a good quality tranny cooler to my system and just disconnect the lines going to my radiator would it make my radiator run cooler?

Can anyone recommend a good tranny cooler and size to mount up front so I still get really good tranny cooling even in 100+ weather?

PSIG

You can use your trans cooler to reduce load on the engine radiator, or use it to cool the trans fluid below engine temp depending on how you plumb it.

Placing it before the radiator will reduce the heat in the radiator and help the engine run cooler. Plumbing it after the radiator will add heat to the radiator, but reduce the temps to the trans. While factory setups tend to put it before the radiator to stabilize trans temps faster (and use a thermal bypass), performance apps usually add it after to reduce trans temps, and to avoid cooking the trans if the engine overheats. Alternatively, just run the cooler by itself and bypass the radiator, allowing the trans and engine to find their own temps. What you do depends on what your goal is.

Be sure to plumb your cooler as the pic below shows, so you don't trap air in the cooler, reducing its cooling performance. Also, take care placing the cooler, as it can block cooling air to the radiator, for a net gain of nothing. Plate coolers (like the ones below) are usually more efficient than tube-and-fin types. Used ones from factory trucks are becoming more common at the wreckers at decent prices.

David

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RickRacer

I was thinking since I have AC in this 66 I won't mount a trans cooler in front of the condenser but would mount it right beside that where one of the horns are. I think mounting it with spacers would be the best bet plus run some flexible braided lines and get rid of the old factory ones.

I also thought about keeping the trans cooler full and plugged in the radiator to help possibly cool the engine better....not sure if it would work or not. I think I would use anti-freeze instead of trans fluid in case a hole developed between the two chambers later and they mixed.

I lost a new C4 in my Mustang years ago because a hole developed between the two chambers and all my anti-freeze went in the tranny before I knew it and ruined it fast! Of course back then it only cost me $300 to have that C4 rebuilt.....now it'll be higher for sure.

KULTULZ

Here's my thoughts on a cooler install-

(Lock And Load )

I wouldn't be overly concerned with trying to cool the engine with the install. Actually, trans heat is a drag on the radiator, not the other way around.

The leakage of a combination cooler/radiator is a real risk, but if serviced properly (coolant and fluid) will be less likely to happen.

The plumbing of a cooler before the radiator regulates the temp of the fluid returning to the trans. Like an engine, it must operate at a minimum temperature. Plumbing afterwards may lead to over-cooling.

A trans temp gauge is needed IMO to monitor temp.

__________________
DISCLAIMER-

The above posted information is in my opinion only. It may contain copy and paste material(s). Your opinion(s) and mileage may vary.

pvan

Agreed. Trans fluid runs hotter than coolant by design (240 degrees or so if memory serves me). It also expands with heat which is why you check trans fluid hot, so it has fully expanded. Adding a trans cooler as a preventative measure without knowing how the trans is functioning first could be detrimental to the performance and longevity of the trans, not to mention an unnecessary expense.

PSIG

OK, do as you will, but 240° trans temp is going to cook about four times faster than at 175°. We have threads that have been all through this, and although 160-170°F is the best combination of longevity and viscosity for most of our Ford automatics, cooler is far less of an issue than hotter. Rather than re-hash it here, please search the threads about it and discuss it there.

David

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KULTULZ

Agreed, but...

Like engine oil, ATF has detergent/dispersant packages also and will not function properly if not at a minimum temp leading to varnish buildup.

The trans temp has to be monitored whenever a change takes place other than OEM, i.e trailer and/or performance applications, especially hi-stall convertors.

You just don't slap any JC WHITNEY cooler on it and think everything is OK..

This fact has to be presented. Let the owner do what they shall.

__________________
DISCLAIMER-

The above posted information is in my opinion only. It may contain copy and paste material(s). Your opinion(s) and mileage may vary.

pvan

aaa

PSIG

There appear to be mis-readings or misunderstandings, and there is little any of us disagree on. Into the '90s, that's true, and then (as well as earlier HD), bypass thermostats were used in hotter engines to regulate when fluid went through the cooler. As you likely read in the other threads, this was to not only regulate fluid volume, but to regulate viscosity, which directly impacts MPG ratings to a degree. Note that until the late '90's, all these transmissions were used with materials, fluids and clearances developed in the early '60s when standard engine temps were in the 160-180°F range. That's what they were originally designed for, and did not change until temps could not be held at those lower levels (due mostly to emissions schemes), and when external coolers, different seal materials, and synthetic fluids to withstand the higher temps became standard. Those changes were not during the years we generally deal with on this site (pre-'90s) and include the features we generally recommend after that (late '90s +).
Standard testing temp reference is always in the pan. Diagnostic testing is also in other locations such as the cooler lines both before and after the cooler(s). If you only give one temperature reference, then it's always assumed centered in the left pan side. I'm sure your Dad is familiar with all of the above and more test points as well, used for other purposes, such as pump outlet and direct clutch pack temperatures.
Sure it applies, as the goal is to maintain target temps, and how that's done is based on how it's used. Whether Granny's car or a drag strip beast, that's the goal, and what you need to do or not depends on that use and reaching that temp goal. There are many ways to set-up trans cooling as stated in my first post, and what you do or not depends on how you're using it and what you need to reach the same goal.
Yep, and why I didn't suggest any particular course of action either.
That's right. I never said he did, though it's likely he does. Assuming he knows he does, there are many ways to do it depending on needs. We don't know if and what those needs are yet.
Yep. And it would be great to have his input here. I'd like to hear how the requirements to meet regulations for mileage, emissions, and standards for NVH and warranty altered how he would have done design and testing for transmission life and performance use. For example, I wonder if he was as frustrated as most other engineers I speak with, that found Ford would not approve another $20 in production cost, because it would usually last past warranty as-is.
Right. And the level must be maintained - including the heat expansion - to the proper level to avoid aeration due to under or over-level. That's true at 160° or 260°, but the fluid volume would be different for those two temps. Likewise, if the use is performance, cooling will likely be involved to maintain that fluid temp and volume, and why additional cooling is added for virtually any performance use beyond factory 'normal'. To wit, the factory installed additional coolers for HD and towing packages even though the engine was the same in the standard package. By and large, standard factory cooling was only sufficient (at best) for standard engines and driving.
Again, we don't and I didn't. Any more than someone saying "What cam should I use?", I cannot be specific in my recommendations until I know what it's for and what other parts it has to work with. Same here. I can say, however, how it would be installed if one were added, and I did. So, it appears to me we aren't so far part after all.

David

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RickRacer

After reading these new comments I think it would be best to hook up a temp gauge while I'm still using the trans cooler in the radiator and see what the temp is, this will be my base temp. Then when I do add the external cooler and only use it I will have a base temp to go by.

Then I would be able to adjust the trans temp by moving the external cooler closer or further away from the mounting surface which would change the air flow through it and achieve my base temp.

At least it sounds good in theory.....

Or I could buy one of those fancy cooler units with an electric fan and thermostat but I didn't really want to go that all out for a cruiser.

KULTULZ

Think about this- Remote Oil Thermostat 3/8" FPT Ports

__________________
DISCLAIMER-

The above posted information is in my opinion only. It may contain copy and paste material(s). Your opinion(s) and mileage may vary.

RickRacer

thanks Kultulz, that's a cool little toy! Never even heard of one, do you have one on your system?

PSIG

You heard about them in your first reply. Several companies sell that version, such as Derale's version for less. However, there are other newer versions even less expensive (but good), such as Long/Tru-Cool's bypass. And, although not needed for the extra flow for HD towing or racing, the premium ThermoStasis low-bypass unit is top-notch, and is calibrated for best performance and trans life temperatures.

David

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KULTULZ

I seemed to have stolen Daves' thunder.

I will say five Hail Marys and pray...

__________________
DISCLAIMER-

The above posted information is in my opinion only. It may contain copy and paste material(s). Your opinion(s) and mileage may vary.

PSIG

Not at all, but when I saw the price of the Perma-Cool T-stat you linked to, I wanted to make him aware of cheaper and better versions.

David

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