Brakes Wont Hold
My car will push through the line like with street tires, a slow roll but still not holding.
Its a 67 coupe that I switched over to 68 single piston discs. The brake system has been totally replaced.
New 68- early 70 Man/Pwr disc MC with a one inch bore
New hard and soft brake lines on the front and rears
New calipers up front, new wheel cylinders in the back
I ditched the factory combo valve and put an SSBC combo/prop valve in its place. The Hurst Line loc is between the combo/prop and front brakes.
System has been bled and re bled, its clear.
Use DOT 3 fluid
Fordnut did the same swap, except he used a straight prop valve and he says his works good and holds the car with the line lock.
They stop ok, not great. I have not really cranked them to see if they will lock up. Good pedal, about 1/3 travel, then firms up, and the pedal is solid after that, no leak down or mushing.
The only thing not replaced was rotors/pads, came with the car when I bought it. The rotors look good, they have a lot of meat, are in great shape, not glazed (pics posted on my making progress thread, 67 Mustang coupe). The pads look brand new. Looks like any normal wear pattern on a disc break rotor, cant see anything from that.
No pulling, car does stop in a straight line. I even engaged and held the line loc at low speed once with a minimal pres to see if it would pull one way or the other, it doesnt and did slow the car down a lot.
So what am I missing. I am thinking my next step would be a press test on the front calipers, would have to buy a press test kit. Let me know if I am over looking something stupid here.
Yes, I went back and checked my plumbing, its got the right tubes to the righ bowl outlet to the right inlet/outlet on the prop block (SSBC marks those pretty well).
Project 521 Gydyup - 67 Mustang Coup
521 BBF-Solid Roller -Kaase P51 Heads-Victor-AED Dominator - Jerico DR4, Long Inline Shifter.
Shortened & Mini Tubbed. Strange Nodular 9, Spooled 4:56, Mark Williams Axles.
"old School - WWDD"