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Old 01-17-2009, 10:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

This article will show you how to restore your engine bay without removing the engine. The goal of this project was to radically improve the look of the car without spending a ton of money as it will get a new engine in the near future.

Here are some before pictures.







The first step was to push the car out into the drive and power wash the bay. Three hours with a wire brush, a gallon of degreaser , and half a dozen cans of brake clean, and it was time to mask the bay.

The images below show the bay after cleaning. It is a good idea to let the car dry for 24 to 48 hours before you begin painting.

Now you can remove the pulley's, exhaust manifolds, export brace, hood hinges, and shock tower caps so they can be blasted and painted.







Now that everything is clean and dry, you can begin to mask off the surfaces that you want to keep free of paint. Tinfoil is great for protecting those hard to mask components. Painters tape and plastic wrap allow you to mask the remaining parts of the engine.

While it would have been better to remove the Monte-Carlo bar, it is easily painted around.




Prior to masking the intake was sprayed with high heat clear coat to keep it looking good.




Feeling a little blue.

While the light Ford Blue is not correct for the block, I like it better than the dark blue so that's what I went with. Once the engine is painted, let it dryfor 24 hours before masking so you can begin work on the bay.




The next step is to scuff the bay with red Scotch Brite so the primer has a rough surface to adhere to. Once the scuffing is done you can use glazing putty to fill in the low spots. Let the putty dry and sand it smooth. Once the sanding is done blow out the bay with compressed air and then wipe everything down with a tack cloth.

The bay will now be ready to prime. Remember to cover the car to protect its finish.







For this down and dirty project, rattle can primers and paint were used, Rustoleum automotive primer and Krylon Semi Flat Black. Three coats of primer provided good coverage.




The Krylon provided the desired results. For a more durable finish use a true automotive paint with hardener.




The finished bay.

All fasteners have been changed to stainless.











Door panel retainers and grommets were used to fill the stock holes in the bay. This will allow an easy transistion back to stock if desired.










Some of the extras used to give the engine a nice clean look:

The wires are Taylor 135 degree cut to fit.
The looms are Made for You verticle keepers.
1994 Cobra distributor cover




Attached Thumbnails
Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.-ebrgallery.jpg  
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Last edited by FATNFAST; 01-18-2009 at 07:09 AM.
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Old 01-18-2009, 08:46 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Re: Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

looks great!
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

who is your source for those stainless fasteners? looks very nice. est hours?
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Old 01-18-2009, 11:01 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmustangman357 View Post
who is your source for those stainless fasteners? looks very nice. est hours?
The two best sources you can use are:

McMaster-Carr
http://www.alloyboltz.com/

The majority of the body bolts are 5/16"-18 x 7/8" length.

For the Export brace, you need 4 of the 3/8"-16 x 1" length bolts.
The bolts for the fenders are "Flat Head Socket Cap Screws". For the bolts, Alloy Boltz is the better resource - they can sell them to you polished or unpolished. PLUS, he offers the correct 7/8" length for the 5/16-18's.

McMaster makes you choose either 3/4" or 1" (I found a mix worked best, as 1" was too long for hood-to-hinge, and 3/4" was too short in other places!) Mcmaster.com only offers unpolished stainless - you CAN polish them yourself with a drill, scotchbrite, and polishing compound. Not hard to do at all.

Here's what I used:
1/4-20 x 7/8"
Alloy Boltz PN # 25SF87
Mcmaster Carr PN # 92210A541
5/16-18 x 3/4" - Mcmaster Carr PN # 92210A581
5/16-18 x 7/8" - AlloyBoltz PN # 31SF87 (PREFERRED)
5/16-18 x 1" - Mcmaster Carr PN # 92210A583
3/8-16 x 1"
Alloy Boltz PN # 37SF10
Mcmaster Carr PN # 92210A624

For the Countersunk finishing washers, I STRONGLY preferred the Nickel-Plated Brass ones from McMaster.com. They offer stainless, but the nickel-brass is lower profile with a better appearance. You WILL NEED a finishing washer with each bolt, as they have countersunk heads.

Part numbers are:

1/4" - 92922A029
5/16" - 92922A034
3/8" - 92922A035

For the Whizlock nuts (aka Serrated Hex Nuts), once again Mcmaster.com is the preferred supplier - you'll want 20 of the 5/16-18, and 4 of the 3/8-16 per car. The 3/8 are used for the export brace, while the 5/16 are for the outer shock tower cover and horns.

5/16-18 - 93776A441
3/8-16 - 93776A461

For the engine I used a polished allen head kit from National Part Depot, part # 6000-1KD.
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Old 01-18-2009, 03:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

very nice.
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Old 01-18-2009, 07:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

very nice. Excellent results for not pulling the motor. I like it!
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Old 01-18-2009, 10:48 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

looks great, why no masking the valve train?
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Old 01-19-2009, 07:20 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

thats nice.
looks very clean with all the wires hidden and fresh paint. good job!
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Old 01-19-2009, 08:15 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

Thanks guys!

About masking the valve train, I honestly forgot about it. So far no issues, knock on wood.
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Old 01-19-2009, 11:17 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

How does the Krylon semi black hold up to a wipe down?
I spilled some coffee on battery tray, that dried, wiped it down with a hardware store mild thinner,
Tottaly screwed up the semi-gloss finish, just can;t get the wipe marks off
Touch it & it seems to mark, even with water!
Dupli-color Semi-gloss over POR-15 base
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Old 01-19-2009, 02:09 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roger View Post
How does the Krylon semi black hold up to a wipe down?
I spilled some coffee on battery tray, that dried, wiped it down with a hardware store mild thinner,
Tottaly screwed up the semi-gloss finish, just can;t get the wipe marks off
Touch it & it seems to mark, even with water!
Dupli-color Semi-gloss over POR-15 base
Not very well. When the new engine goes in I will use a true automotive paint.
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:03 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Re: Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

I bet you rest easy with that threesome protecting it!
Nice job.
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Old 01-20-2009, 08:24 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Re: Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

I think everything looks great. Job well prepared, well executed!

About the Krylon enamel in a can...

It holds up extremely well to all sorts of detergents, and minerals.

It will not wipe off with Mineral spirits after it has had several day's to cure.

But thinner WILL take it off, battery acid WILL etch it, and hard water WILL stain it (unless you clear coat it)
Other than that, it's pretty durable stuff!
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Old 01-20-2009, 11:22 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Re: Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GT300TD View Post
I bet you rest easy with that threesome protecting it!
Nice job.
Yes, but who is going to protect it from them?

Thanks!
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Old 01-20-2009, 11:23 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Re: Engine bay restoration with the engine in place.

Thanks FE.
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