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Old 04-04-2008, 03:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Talking 1968 390 new carb/dist suggestions

Been trying to read all the forums on these subjects, but thought perhaps I could get some assistance here. I have a 1968 Ford XL Convertible, 390 (Y code) automatic, no air.

I replaced a bad Autolite 2100 Carb with a Champion 2100 a few months ago, and am not happy with it. For $70 what did I expect, right? Per many of you in the forums, I have come to the conclusion that for street driving only, which is waht I do, I should look at the Edelbrock line.
Called Edelbrock directly, and they suggested the 1806, 650CFM carb for my application.

Will this carb bolt right onto the standard intake manifold? Are any adapters needed for linkage, etc. that you know of? Edelbrock was not definite on exactly what I would need. I guess you can't expect them to know the exact setup of every car out there. Any other thoughts/suggestions?

I am also thinking of replacing the standard single point dist, with an electronic ignition. Tried to install a Mallory E-Spark kit, but couldn't get the car started. Put the points back in and now it will start but runs real rough. Replaced all the plugs, which were fouled, new points, condenser, rotor, and starts easier but still rough. Tried checking all else and can't seem to get it smooth again.

What electronic ignition do you recommend? Should I just get it replaced before I worry about trying to smooth out what I have? The firing order is correct, but it seems that the dist wires might be 180 out, as the number one plug wire is in the front left of the cap,and my chilton manual shows it to be in the back right, looking at it from the front of the car.

Am a newbie here, and any and all help would be appreciated!

Thanks-Tim
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Old 04-04-2008, 06:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: 1968 390 new carb/dist suggestions

There's a difference between auto and standard trans in the linkage. I know there was something i had to be sure to have on the holley I had. Although a 4V it would still be the same with a 2v. Maybe the kickdown setup? I just can't remember.

The number one plug should be the plug on the passenger side front so the rotor cap on the distributor when the cap is off should point to that plug. You can check your wires then to be sure they are going in the right directions around the cap and in the right order starting with number one. The wires/firing order go in a counter clockwise direction around the cap.

If it was 180 out you would know it as it would be popping and backfiring through the carb more than likely.
The firing order as you already know i'm sure, is on the intake manifold.

It could be you just don't have the gap set right on the points though also. Even one wire off though could make it run rough.

Something simple I'm sure.

Deb
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Last edited by ShotRod64; 04-04-2008 at 06:22 PM.
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Old 04-04-2008, 07:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: 1968 390 new carb/dist suggestions

Thanks for the kind response Deb. Very much appreciated. Just bought the car a year ago, and am trying to tinker, without causing too much damage.

The Edelbrock guy did say that I probably would need a "bolt-on throttle kick-down adapter because it was an automatic, so that sounds like what you are saying also.

I'm thinking about ordering the Edelbrock 1806, a Pertronix Ignitor with Flamethrower coil, and hope I can get it running smooth. I know from reading posts, that you like the points setup, but I seem to be somewhat mechanically challenged, so the less I have to "tinker" with, the less damage I can do,,,,,right?

Thanks agin for your reply...Just subscribed a week ago to FM, and am very impressed with the forums and kindness of the members.
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Old 04-04-2008, 07:27 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: 1968 390 new carb/dist suggestions

Tim,
The edelbrock should bolt right on there, which I forgot to add. I guess a cell or two are still operational in my brain since it was a kick down deal.

Yeah I like the points. Like that infomercial for the ronco showtime rotisserie, "set it and forget it". I usually never mess with my points til it's tune up time or if for some reason the car starts running badly and I'm trying to find the problem. I guess I just hate change and trying to stay in the past.

I always hear carry your old points with you when swapping to electronic ignition. Probably a good idea for just in case. I just carry an extra set of points with my points.

You got a real nice lookin gal there and the right color too! Glad you can join us! Even if it's not a '64.

Deb
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Old 04-04-2008, 07:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: 1968 390 new carb/dist suggestions

I'm guessing that the carb you want to buy is a 4 barrel, and the carb you are taking off is a 2 barrel, so you'll need an adapter, which I'd not recommended, or a 4 barrel intake manifold.
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Old 04-04-2008, 10:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Question Re: 1968 390 new carb/dist suggestions

Wow. The more I read about this, the more I think I might be getting in over my head. I don't feel comfortable with changing out the intake manifold to change over to a 4 barrel from the current 2100 I have. If that is what is required, can anyone recommend a carb that is better than the cheap Champion 2100 I have, that would bolt on the existing manifold? Why wouldn't an adapter work, if they make one?

I am also starting to lean more your way Deb. Adjusting the points occaisionally seems a better idea with all the conflicting reports about the Pertronix Igniter II that I have been reading. Doesn't look like the more reliable Pertronix Igniter (reg version) will work on my car, and I would have to go with the Igniter II, which seems to have many more problems.

Is there just a better distributor setup than the stock I have? Does a better coil make much difference? Just trying to improve the engine performance, and make it user friendly without much fuss, since this is my daily driver, and would like to take it on vacation next month.

Remind me to come back as a mechanic in my next life! I see they are still rebuilding the Autolite 2100. I'm not looking to race, just drive well with good performance on the street.
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Old 04-05-2008, 03:35 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: 1968 390 new carb/dist suggestions

If you don't wanna go with the 2 barrel and intake, I'd go for a 500 Holley 2 barrel.
If you use the 4 barrel with an adapter, you will be losing a lot of the benefit of a 4 barrel, because of the restriction of the 2 barrel intake.
As for the distributor, if you stay with points, go for a dual point Mallory, Accel etc.
So much simpler to change out points and condenser if something goes wrong, rather than spending time with faulty electronics.
That's only my opinion, but others will say go with electronic ignition.
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Old 04-05-2008, 12:25 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: 1968 390 new carb/dist suggestions

Quote:
Originally Posted by danv View Post
If you don't wanna go with the 2 barrel and intake, I'd go for a 500 Holley 2 barrel.
If you use the 4 barrel with an adapter, you will be losing a lot of the benefit of a 4 barrel, because of the restriction of the 2 barrel intake.
As for the distributor, if you stay with points, go for a dual point Mallory, Accel etc.
So much simpler to change out points and condenser if something goes wrong, rather than spending time with faulty electronics.
That's only my opinion, but others will say go with electronic ignition.
What is the advantage of dual points on a grocery getter vs just the the stock point setup? I've never messed with them and wondering, is it twice the pain to get the points adjusted on a dual setup or are the points adjusted with an allen wrench like GMs on those type?
Although I don't know any options for points other than going to dual or sticking with what is on the car already. I haven't had my distributor cap off in at least 2 yrs. Probably due for a set maybe. One day I'll have to look and see I guess huh? It is due for a tuneup or at least a sparkplug cleaning I'm sure.

As for the carb, you could get a 2v carb for it. That's the one thing that is a pain on the 390/352 others? is it just seems like a major operation just to swap intakes. Can't just remove a few bolts, yank one and put the other on. Can't blame you for not wanting to go that route. What exactly is the problem with the carb you have now?

Deb
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1964 Galaxie 500XL convertible, 390 .040 over, Fedmogul rv pro-3000 cam

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http://www.so-calgalaxies.com
http://www.galaxiesnw.com
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Old 04-05-2008, 02:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: 1968 390 new carb/dist suggestions

Did I say I wasn't a mechanic????? I'm not sure anything is wrong with the carb, just put it on within the last 6 months. Just trying to eliminate items to get it to run better.

Had some bad exahst leaks, and got those taken care of, but the acceleration is still not real good, and lately I have been noticing a miss that's getting worse and worse.

Had a neighbor set the carb by ear?, and not sure it was really ever set correctly.

Since my last post, I have been playing more today. Couldn't set the idle on the carb correctly due to a mickey-moused throttle cable. I replaced that today, and now I am able to actually set the idle with the set screw....cool!

I have replaced all the plugs, which were mostly fouled(black) put in new points, condenser, rotor. I replace the cap and wires the last tune up, which was only about 5 months or 1,000 miles ago, so it seems that the carb has been running pretty rich, and the "setting by ear" wasn't all that accurate.

Today I got everything running much better, set timing, etc. Couldn't check idle speed or dwell, since the old meter I have looks like it died. The one thing that concerns me a little now, is that I am noticing a small amount of white smoke coming out of the driver side exhast pipe. The other side looks fine. Not sure how I could have caused this from playing with the carb and dist. but, did I mention I'm not a mechanic?

If I can get this running right, I will just stick with the 2100 carb, as it is a daily driver for me. Grocery Runner sounds so bad......can't call her that....lol

Much improved now if I can just eliminate the white smoke issue. It is a very little bit, and does not increase with pressing the accelerator, and it was very humid, sprinkling all day today, so don't know if that has anything to do with it, but seems strange it would only be out one exhaust and not the other. Could it still be the carb setting? Both set screws are backed out 1 3/4 turns.

Thanks for any help!

Tim
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