Originally Posted by 68 390 convert
I don't know why I put ballast resistor in the title by I mean resistor wire. I found out why I had 12 volts with the conector unhooked my coil wire also goes to my electric choke that was still hooked up. From what I can find the wire is under the dash but I cannot find it. I may run a relay to power up the coil wire anyways. The coil I am getting can run some pretty high amps and I don't want to burn up the iginition switch.
That's the best answer. Leave the choke on the original wiring, and also use the wire to energize a relay directly from battery power to both the coil and the PerTronix. It is essential the module get full system voltage to work properly. That is the single most common reason folks have issues with them.
The resistance wire is normally PINK
and goes from the switch (or inline shortly after) to the firewall connector, where it changes color and is no longer resistance wire. If you can't find a PINK
wire under the dash, trace the coil wire to the firewall and test the resistance from there to the ignition switch to confirm you have one, and what color it is (sometimes RED
). The BROWN
wire from the I
terminal of the solenoid provides full
+12v to the coil when cranking (starter engaged) only. The BLU
wire runs from the switch to the solenoid S
terminal to energize the solenoid. Have fun and let us know how you like it.
EDIT: PS - you can test to see if you have a resistor inline with a volt meter, but only if the engine is running. The stock coil terminal wire should test at a full +12v KOEO (Key On Engine Off) and around +6v KOER (Key On Engine Running). That's the telltale there is a resistance if you have no resistance (ohm) meter to use.