Hey All,
Have been doing some contemplation about the complete Super-Tune Caper. What I have in mind is going completely though each adjustment procedure and with instrumentation (Tachometer/Dwell Meter, Vacuum/Pressure Tester, Compression Tester, Timing Light, and etc.) setting the 3.14 with the Autolite 4100 at the OPTIMUM adjustment. Am doing this just to see if it CAN be done, and if I am the one who can do it.
One of the most prevalent comments that has been made here is that: What an Engine needs is pretty much individualized, and depends on a LOT of factors.
What the Shop Manual says is mostly for a BRAND NEW ENGINE, and therefore NOT really, or totally applicable to an Engine like the 3.14 with nearly 300,000 miles total, and 136,000 on this rebuild.
So this brings up a "bunch" of questions that need answering.
So far, here are some (there are more, I am sure) of them which will be asked as we progress:
QUESTION: How is the AMOUNT of Dwell that is needed arrived at?
Wouldn't it depend on the Battery, the Alternator, the Voltage Regulator, the Ignition Coil, the Condenser, the Points Gap, and maybe even the Wire Gauge and Resistance used in the circuitry?
If this is so, then HOW can one calculate the Dwell Angle with all these factors dialed in?
If this is NOT so, then what ARE the salient factors?
The 1964 Ford and Mercury Shop Manual has the following listing for a 390 FE in general and the P-Code Engine in particular:
Breaker Arm Spring Tension: 17-20 Ounces (this is how much pressure it takes to open the Points).
Contact Spacing: 0.014 - 0.016 (this is Points Gap?).
Dwell Angle at Idle Speed: 26 - 28.5 Degrees.
Initial Ignition Timing: 4 Degrees BTDC (!)
[THERE IS A NOTE ABOUT THIS: "To obtain optimum engine performance and fuel economy, the initial ignition timing may be advanced 5 degrees over the "normal" setting. No further improvement in engine performance or fuel economy will be achieved by advancing beyond this point. Advance the timing progressively until engine detonation (spark knock) is evident under actual road test acceleration. Retard the timing until the detonation is eliminated."]
QUESTION: Have heard a bunch about "recurving" the Distributor to achieve OPTIMUM results.
Here are the relevant specifications from the Shop Manual:
CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE:
@400 RPM .5 - 1.5 Degrees
@500 RPM 3.5 - 4.5 Degrees
@800 RPM 5.75 - 7 Degrees
@1400 RPM 8.25 - 8.5 Degrees
@2000 RPM 10.75 - 12.75 Degrees
VACUUM ADVANCE:
1000 RPM 2 - 5 Degrees @ 8"HG Vacuum
1000 RPM 4 - 7 Degrees @ 10 HG Vacuum
1000 RPM 5.5 - 8.5 Degrees @ 15 HG Vacuum
1000 RPM 5.5 - 8.5 Degrees @ 20 HG Vacuum
Maximum Advance Limit 8.5 Degrees
Spark Plugs: BF-32 18MM Gap: 0.032 - 0.036
By the above specifications, if the Initial Advance is 4 degrees, and once can exceed that by 5 degrees, then Initial Advance should NEVER be more than 9 degrees.
Then if the Centrifugal Advance can be up to 12.75 degrees, would THAT be added to the 9 degrees? If it would then we are looking at 21.75 degrees with the Initial and Centrifugal.
And then if the Vacuum Advance can be up to, but not exceeding 8.5 degrees, would that be added to the 21.75 degrees? And if it would then we are looking at 30.25 degrees "ALL IN". Right?
So on Ms. American's 3.14, we are right now sitting at 10.5 Initial, and with the Centrifugal&Vacuum added provide 32 degrees "ALL IN".
NOW, what Ross, Gary, and Mr. B&F are saying is to dial in the Initial Advance to where the MAXIMUM Intake Manifold Vacuum is achieved (with the Vacuum Line FROM the 4100 TO the Distributor disconnected and capped), then back off two degrees, and whatever THAT is will be the Initial Advance.
And apparently the 3.14's Distributor adds another 21.5 degrees (32 (ALL IN) minus 10.5 (Initial)) Centrifugal&Vacuum, so let's say that the Maximum Intake Manifold Vacuum is achieved at 14 degrees BTDC, then we back off of THAT two degrees, making the Initial Advance 12 degrees, then we get another 21.5 degrees from the Centrifugal&Vacuum, that would equal 33.5 degrees which apparently ISN'T all that radical.
So at this point, we have the Dwell and Timing set.
Then it is time to go step-by-step through the settings of the 4100. We've pretty much got the Choke Mechanism adjusted. This tuning would include only the Secondary Throttle Plates Shaft opening, the Idle Mixture settings, and the Hot Engine Idle Speed, and we'd pretty much be at what is best for the 3.14. RIGHT?
Anyway, this should be fun and informative.
JC
Have been doing some contemplation about the complete Super-Tune Caper. What I have in mind is going completely though each adjustment procedure and with instrumentation (Tachometer/Dwell Meter, Vacuum/Pressure Tester, Compression Tester, Timing Light, and etc.) setting the 3.14 with the Autolite 4100 at the OPTIMUM adjustment. Am doing this just to see if it CAN be done, and if I am the one who can do it.
One of the most prevalent comments that has been made here is that: What an Engine needs is pretty much individualized, and depends on a LOT of factors.
What the Shop Manual says is mostly for a BRAND NEW ENGINE, and therefore NOT really, or totally applicable to an Engine like the 3.14 with nearly 300,000 miles total, and 136,000 on this rebuild.
So this brings up a "bunch" of questions that need answering.
So far, here are some (there are more, I am sure) of them which will be asked as we progress:
QUESTION: How is the AMOUNT of Dwell that is needed arrived at?
Wouldn't it depend on the Battery, the Alternator, the Voltage Regulator, the Ignition Coil, the Condenser, the Points Gap, and maybe even the Wire Gauge and Resistance used in the circuitry?
If this is so, then HOW can one calculate the Dwell Angle with all these factors dialed in?
If this is NOT so, then what ARE the salient factors?
The 1964 Ford and Mercury Shop Manual has the following listing for a 390 FE in general and the P-Code Engine in particular:
Breaker Arm Spring Tension: 17-20 Ounces (this is how much pressure it takes to open the Points).
Contact Spacing: 0.014 - 0.016 (this is Points Gap?).
Dwell Angle at Idle Speed: 26 - 28.5 Degrees.
Initial Ignition Timing: 4 Degrees BTDC (!)
[THERE IS A NOTE ABOUT THIS: "To obtain optimum engine performance and fuel economy, the initial ignition timing may be advanced 5 degrees over the "normal" setting. No further improvement in engine performance or fuel economy will be achieved by advancing beyond this point. Advance the timing progressively until engine detonation (spark knock) is evident under actual road test acceleration. Retard the timing until the detonation is eliminated."]
QUESTION: Have heard a bunch about "recurving" the Distributor to achieve OPTIMUM results.
Here are the relevant specifications from the Shop Manual:
CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE:
@400 RPM .5 - 1.5 Degrees
@500 RPM 3.5 - 4.5 Degrees
@800 RPM 5.75 - 7 Degrees
@1400 RPM 8.25 - 8.5 Degrees
@2000 RPM 10.75 - 12.75 Degrees
VACUUM ADVANCE:
1000 RPM 2 - 5 Degrees @ 8"HG Vacuum
1000 RPM 4 - 7 Degrees @ 10 HG Vacuum
1000 RPM 5.5 - 8.5 Degrees @ 15 HG Vacuum
1000 RPM 5.5 - 8.5 Degrees @ 20 HG Vacuum
Maximum Advance Limit 8.5 Degrees
Spark Plugs: BF-32 18MM Gap: 0.032 - 0.036
By the above specifications, if the Initial Advance is 4 degrees, and once can exceed that by 5 degrees, then Initial Advance should NEVER be more than 9 degrees.
Then if the Centrifugal Advance can be up to 12.75 degrees, would THAT be added to the 9 degrees? If it would then we are looking at 21.75 degrees with the Initial and Centrifugal.
And then if the Vacuum Advance can be up to, but not exceeding 8.5 degrees, would that be added to the 21.75 degrees? And if it would then we are looking at 30.25 degrees "ALL IN". Right?
So on Ms. American's 3.14, we are right now sitting at 10.5 Initial, and with the Centrifugal&Vacuum added provide 32 degrees "ALL IN".
NOW, what Ross, Gary, and Mr. B&F are saying is to dial in the Initial Advance to where the MAXIMUM Intake Manifold Vacuum is achieved (with the Vacuum Line FROM the 4100 TO the Distributor disconnected and capped), then back off two degrees, and whatever THAT is will be the Initial Advance.
And apparently the 3.14's Distributor adds another 21.5 degrees (32 (ALL IN) minus 10.5 (Initial)) Centrifugal&Vacuum, so let's say that the Maximum Intake Manifold Vacuum is achieved at 14 degrees BTDC, then we back off of THAT two degrees, making the Initial Advance 12 degrees, then we get another 21.5 degrees from the Centrifugal&Vacuum, that would equal 33.5 degrees which apparently ISN'T all that radical.
So at this point, we have the Dwell and Timing set.
Then it is time to go step-by-step through the settings of the 4100. We've pretty much got the Choke Mechanism adjusted. This tuning would include only the Secondary Throttle Plates Shaft opening, the Idle Mixture settings, and the Hot Engine Idle Speed, and we'd pretty much be at what is best for the 3.14. RIGHT?
Anyway, this should be fun and informative.
JC