Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

Crites fiberglass hood question

22K views 34 replies 17 participants last post by  Jackal 
#1 ·
Thinking about a Crites fiberglass teardrop hood for my '63 300. What is the quality of this hood? Fit & finish? What about hinges and latch, hood springs? Anyone had any experence with this hood, good or bad. Thanks.
 
#2 ·
He are happy with ours, and will be getting one from them for the Thunerbolt when its time. We didn't fit it, but its a nice product. We also have the rear trunk lid and bumpers, all have been great.

I know they have provisions for the hinges, a hood prop, and i believe the latch in the front. We are using hood pins and no latch, and 4 pins on the trunk.
 
#6 ·
Exactly! I used light springs on the hood. Think I got them from them even. Fits really good. The only hard part was getting the hood lip trim to attach.
 
#9 ·
Do the Crites hoods for the 63.5 have some sort of mesh on them or are they open? Are the hood pins necessary or can you swap over the stock latch? How about hinges, use stock and remove the springs or? If so, what about a prop rod? Are they heavier or lighter than stock? Flimsy or solid? Do they do anything for underhood temps / intake temps or just for looks? Are they ready to paint, or do they require prep and/or fitment?
 
#10 ·
They have mesh. Hood pins are not necessary but should be used. Have them drill it for the stock latch and hinges. Stock hinges work with the springs removed and you can use screen door springs or hook a chain where one of the stock springs was to hold it open or a prop rod. Lighter than stock. Solid. Cooler under hood temps. Need to be fitted and prepped for paint.
 
#13 ·
how are you guys using the hood without springs? I'm not sure who made mine, as i inherited the car with it. my fiberglass hood has the stock latch, hinges and and drilled for pins.

when I want to open it, it have to finagle the hood 1" toward the front of the car before I can lift it otherwise the corners near the windshield rub against the cowl..
 
#14 ·
You need to put a low tension spring on the hinges. If you notice on a stock hood, as soon as you release the hood and you start to raise it, the rear of the hood lifts up and out of the way. You need a spring that can lift the back but not strong enough to keep the hood up.

The hood isn't a bolt on. When I put my new hood on the car, it's shifted over to the driver side. The hood latch area is not wide enough to allow adjustment side to side. The fiberglass needs clearancing in this area on mine.
 
#15 ·
Finally got my hood on order about a month ago. Hoping to get the call right after the holidays. Any advice on painting the underside of the hood? I'm not sure if I want to spray it Rangoon Red, leave it bare, spray it black to match the engine bay, whether or not to spray the screens black or red, etc. I'm guessing there is not "right way" to go about it huh? Did the Thunderbolt roll off the line with the teardrop? Even 53 y/o wore out hood springs that barely hold the stocker will be too stiff for the fiberglass hood correct? Debating on bolting it on myself and taking it to a body shop, (no highways) or having them slap it on foe me and missing out on the fun. Are they ever bad enough that they just won't fit out of the box?

I think I'm gonna miss my FORD emblems on the hood, esp. since that's the only Ford marking on the car other than parts stampings.
 
#16 ·
64 TBOLT posted this in 2002: "my stock hood weights 40lb,crites fiberglass 20lb.Front bumpa 40lb?? crites 5lb."

I weighed my stock 63.5 hood by weighing myself on a nice scale, then again holding the hood, so not sure how accurate but I figure within 5 lb. easily. I show 59 lbs. on my hood and it feels like every bit of it. I do have some underhood insulation, but that can't amount to much. The front bumper rose 1/4" by removing the hood, and another 1/4" after removing the radiator, surge tank, water pump, and shroud. I figure 100 lbs. total removed. I have Eaton 1" drop springs. Not sure where, but seems like I saw 39 lb. mentioned for the Crites Galaxie hood. Between intake manifold and hood change, I am expecting a 70-75 lb. weight savings and about 3/8" less sag up front. I may clip a 1/4 coil and re-align depending on how it comes out. I went with the $44 low tension hood springs available on ebay. They are half as long at rest and almost double the diameter, but they fit well and seem like they will do the trick.

I am going to use the latch and hood pins.
 
#22 ·
I ordered my hood on 10/11 and was quoted 10-12 weeks. Now coming up on week 13. I called two weeks ago to make sure all was well and I was told that it would be another week or two and that "he ran into some problems" but that all was well now. Maybe I should check in again.
 
#26 ·
I saw those fellas at the Moultrie swap meet a year or two ago.
They said they were making a few 63/64 teardrop hoods.
They don't make hoods for 70's Fseries nor do they make flat/stock 63 galaxie hoods do I kept walking. But they seemed like nice fellas and the other stuff on display looked really nice.

Drew
 
#28 ·
I picked up some $6/ea general purpose springs from Lowes that looks just like the stock spring, Hiliman #543014 1"x7" extension spring.

Problem is the eyelets are a hair too small diameter and they are quite a bit stiffer than the lightweight hood springs I picked up, so I plan to use those instead.

Also, I ordered my hood on 10/11 and it arrived in town today 2/24. Best get those orders in! >:)
 
#30 ·
Afraid I won't know for some time, but the $50 light springs seem to be my best option so far. The Crites hood is a lot lighter than I expected and the paperwork stated that absolutely no springs are to be used with it due to bowing, so you'll want to go as light as possible for sure. I wasn't completely opposed to a prop rod, but heard that the hinges need some tension to keep from binding.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top