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Re: E7TE porting
I'm no expert but I've home ported a number of sbf heads with good results. Hitting water on the short side radius of the intake port floor is not hard to do. You can open up the size a bit but mostly you want to smooth the short side radius (floor) and contour the runner more than hog them out. Contour the bowls and valve guide area smoothing all edges. The other mistake is to lower the exhaust port opening (or port matching to gasket) which increases the bottom curve and can cause turbulence. Port matching the intake ports and manifold to the gaskets and smoothing the manifold casting as far up in as you can reach is good. The exhaust port should be squared off up top and opened up a little bit, but it should not be port matched to the header gaskets. You should leave a lip all the way around the gasket to prevent the exhaust gasses from coming back into the port. The exhaust is not as tricky or as important as the intake. Smooth and contour the bowls, valve guide, runners, short side curve, and EGR bump. When you are doing the combustion chambers make sure you use a set of old valves to protect the seats. It's all pretty straight forward and well documented on several sites and publications. Take your time, it's not hard to port sbf heads, it just takes a little patience.
By the way, a good set of home ported E7 heads make about the same HP as a set of stock GT40 Explorer heads. So you may want to consider the swap. It all depends which is more valuable to you; The $300 for a good set of GT40 heads, or the 20-30 hour experience of home porting your E7 heads. Either will get you roughly the same 20-30 HP gain on a budget.
Good Luck.
Last edited by PaceFever79; 01-11-2009 at 04:55 AM.
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