redtail

So, I have been doing the basic research on how to do retro EFI and have found a great resource to answer all of my basic questions (How to inject your horse published in 'bronco driver; magazine. a 5 part special) but that brought up a few tuning questions...

I just pulled a fuel injected explorer 5.0 (gt40p heads and the good intake with MAF and all the sensors)

1) can you use a tuning chip to change the firing order of, say an A9L brain?

2) If I cannot change the firing order of the computer, can I plug in the injectors in an order that they will actuate properly? just fool the computer into it?

3) I have heard running EGR can help with fuel mileage, do you think I should keep it?

4) I was on another part of the forum and heard PSIG talk about shutting injectors off on deceleration to help MPG. I would be interested in making a project of squeaking max MPG out of some car.

I will be using a 1960's era 302 with stock manifolds for an early bronco, or a 1968 falcon with long tube headers, and the explorer block and heads. I am not quite sure what vehicle I want to inject at this point.

PSIG

David

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redtail

Yes, I am attempting to use an early engine with the later intake.

I am attempting to learn how to use these systems, so getting a tuner would be part of the fun!

What is different between the EGR on the HO vs. GT40?

PSIG

The basic actuation is similar, but the feedback of the DPFE is different for the later Explorers. This may confuse the A9L. I don't recall what year for the change or if all the GT40s were. The simple fix is to use either EGR solenoid (same) and a Mustang DPFE. You'll need the Explorer EVTM manual, and probably the Mustang one as well to compare in getting the hose routing and wiring right, and what you can and can't block-off. As with most things being adapted, you can skip the EGR at first, ignore the codes it throws for it, and add it in later as you get it tuned-in.

David

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-=≡ If it was easy everyone would do it ≡=-

firehorse5_0

Why not use the 5.0 roller block? Tunners for the EEC IV are a bit pricy. I have been wanting one for a while now, but yikes $$$. SCTs 4 bank chip is pretty reasonable, but they have to tune it.

turbo2256b

Havent looked into it yet but ProM is coming out with a new system.

What block you use depends on the amout of power you desire to put out and the RPM. My 5.0 block is right on the boarder line of splitting. Factory lifters are also at a breakage point. I have a 70 ish 302 block boared just needs the lower end ballanced. will use retro billet lifters and better rockers to go with my high spring pressures.

redtail

I would have to rebuild the 5.0, my 302 is in perfect running order, so I don't really want to pull it out.

scld1354

Redtail, where are you located? I just finished retrofitting the EEC-IV EFI 347 from a 90 Mustang into my 68 Ranchero, and I absolutely love it. It fires right up when it's 20* outside, and it gets a tad under 20 MPG (better than the 93 Bronco or the wife's 06 Jeep Liberty).

A couple things...

Use a ECU from an auto car; the NDS (Pin 30) only requires a good ground. A manual car ECU requires 12v in start for the NDS.

When ford switched to the clutch cable system (early 80s?), they eliminated the hole in the side of the block needed for the mechanical clutch linkage. So, if you're going to run an early style manual trans you may want to keep your existing 60s era block. If you want to use a roller block there is an aftermarket bracket you can buy when using an early manual trans (it bolts to the bellhousing).

I plumbed my fuel system according to that bronco article you referred to. 5.0Chero later notified me that 80s/early 90s Ford trucks came from the factory with accumulator tanks. Save some $$ and use one of those.

I prefer the roller motor (one piece rear main, forged rods and pistons, roller cam), but it creates a lot of other little things that need to be addressed (timing cover, oil dipstick tube location, water pump, pulleys, accesories, etc..). Luckily, it's all been done before and you should be able to find answers to any questions.

If you want to use the 60s era short block you already have, you will need a 351W flat tappet cam (for the correct firing order). I am assuming you will use an EEC-IV TFI dizzy. If you do, you will need to change the dizzy gear so it is compatible with the non-roller cam.

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Jon

redtail

Very cool, thank you for chiming in! Yes, I will likely be doing what you said. BUT, if I have to change cams, I will leave that car alone, and do it on another project of mine

I am up in washington state.

5.0 Chero

GTP heads will have may have spark plug issues with stock manifolds and non P headers,