GTchris

Thanks for the replies, I was thinking that might be the problem as well. I bought a vacuum gauge the other day.

I was reading that someone suggested spraying something around to locate vacuum leaks. I am not too keen on spraying stuff all over to find a leak, is there another option?

RAGGAREN

you can use a propane vand....
no messy spray liquids to ruin painted surfaces....
leak could also be internal(meening) lower section of intake..
as it would suck air from lifter valley....
wich could be hard to detect from topside...

__________________
Lars...
64 galaxie 500 2dr fastback... 390 4v, 4spd close ratio toploader, 4.11 rear..far from perfect but getting there...

Mroldfart2U

You can use a "plumbers" torch. IE propane/mapp gas torch. Not lit of course... No liquid spraying all over your cleaned painted pieces parts....

__________________
Cheap, Fast, Reliable... Pick 2...
'70 Mach1 351C 4v 4sp 4:56's Been abused sense '79, needing tlc
'61 Fairlane 500 292 2v Cruise-o-Matic also needing tlc

GTchris

You said to use propane but, maybe you left something off. Use a propane what? Sorry, I might just be a little slow.

Thanks again.

Mroldfart2U

Post #78. Plumbers torch, small LP tank with a torch head screwed to it. Home Depot/Lowes, Ace, Tru-Value will have them if you dont own one... (usually about 15/20 bux) Used to solder copper pipe together.... Turn propane on and wisp it around suspect places for a leak.

__________________
Cheap, Fast, Reliable... Pick 2...
'70 Mach1 351C 4v 4sp 4:56's Been abused sense '79, needing tlc
'61 Fairlane 500 292 2v Cruise-o-Matic also needing tlc

GTchris

I was referring to Rag's post, you were probably typing while I was, thanks!

KULTULZ

Keep bottle upright and use a wand. Liquid propane flows downhill and is explosive.

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DISCLAIMER-

The above posted information is in my opinion only. It may contain copy and paste material(s). Your opinion(s) and mileage may vary.

RAGGAREN

something like this and add a couple feet of hose on to nozzle...
create your own wand..
and wisp other end of hose with propane flowing low around suspect vacume leak areas..

like kultulz said ..use caution....

__________________
Lars...
64 galaxie 500 2dr fastback... 390 4v, 4spd close ratio toploader, 4.11 rear..far from perfect but getting there...

GTchris

I messed around with the car last night.

This fitting on the side of the carb was sucking air like crazy. So, I took a piece of tape and put it between the screen and the outside. Seemed to help but, it's still not quite right.



I did not go pick up the parts to check for the leak with propane and the weather here has been crappy so, I was not too keen on the idea running propane in the enclosed garage. I had a can of starting fluid in the cabinet. I tried it out on on some parts that were laying around the garage and it seemed to be okay on the painted surfaces.

So, I started spraying around the base of the carb and the rpms shot up a bit when I sprayed on the back side of the carb. It looks like I have a leak around the base of the carb. I tightened it down a bit more but, the leak is still present. It idles at 800 - 900rpms now but, shakes like it is not getting enough fuel. I am going to go pick up a couple new gaskets today and see how that works out.

FEandGoingBroke

That capped off and screened vacuum leak is designed for the heat riser choke. You have converted to electric.

But that is also manufactured into the design of the carburetor and should not be accounted for as a vacuum leak.

You can cap it off is you chose to, but be aware that it is not likey to change any of the settings on your carb. If it does, then there is another issue with it in my opinion that has nothing to do with that particular vacuum draw.

__________________

http://www.vintagevehiclerestoration.com

GTchris

So, we determined that there is not a vacuum leak. The carb has been worked on 4 times by 2 different people and the car still seemed to not be running quite right.

I had another friend come over last Friday and he took a look at the car. This is kind of embarrassing, he found the spark plug wire for #7 cylinder that was not completely attached. That would tend to make things run a little off and once that was taken care of he made short work of getting the car tuned.

Here is the latest pic of the engine bay.



It has been raining here steady for the last few days, there was finally a break in the weather so I fired up the Mustang and drove it up and down the drive way a few times. This is the first time the car moved under its own power since I have owned it.

My wife operated the camera phone so, sorry about the sideways view but, you get the idea.

IMG 1250 - YouTube

70leadfoot

Car looks great and sounds cool, the color sets it off nice. Man my neck hurts ... ha ha my wife would take a video like that also.

__________________
1970 Mustang Mach1,Chestnut Metallic,351C,AOD,3.50:1 Locker.

drinkdrivegoto

That car is absolutely gorgeous!

GTchris

I drove the car to the line up / brake shop







The shop told me that the vacuum was too low to operate the power brakes. It is caused from the cam that the builder used in my engine. I need to have a vacuum booster installed to have my power brakes work properly.

chunger

I'm not following something...

Does your car already have power brakes? In all honesty, from the video you posted, it doesn't sound all that radical (especially for an FE), so it's hard to imagine that you're not drawing enough vacuum.

How do the brakes feel when you step on the pedal?

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-chunger
'68 Ranchero 500
'70 Cougar XR-7 Convertible
'98 Mustang GT Convertible