65' Mustang GT - Page 13 - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum

dennis111 · 12-23-2012, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gydyup

I know what I really wanted to ask, why the strap across the top of the houseing, vice that cool little brace kit you weld across the back?

Three main reasons:

1. Removes the clearance needed for my electric fuel pump and filter that is mounted in front of the stock fuel tank.

2. Although the back brace will work well, its too Pro-street for me. I like the look of the early style housing.

3. Stealth mode. The support brace that I installed wouldn't even be noticed by most people-even car people.

Gydyup · 12-23-2012, 07:13 PM

Alwasy thinking Dennis, Always thinking, good stuff man. And cheaper too?

dennis111 · 12-24-2012, 04:29 AM

Oh definitely--basically charged me the $5 for the 3 foot strap of metal and "maybe" 1/2hr labor. Since the housing was being narrowed and needed straightened anyways, it was a bundle deal.

dennis111 · 12-24-2012, 04:03 PM

Installed the rear and of course took a few photos. I believe that we can now safely run these "big" ET drags-we'll have to wait until the end of March/early April for the test run.

The first photo is for Chris:

Four inches from perch to the outer part of the backing plate.

Installed backing plates and shortened one brake line:

Re-drilled and threaded a hole to support the brake hose bracket:

Didn't even need to remove the shoes and springs (stock Mustang) to R&R the axles:

See where the brace ends?

As expected, 3/4" clearance to the frame and about 1 1/2" to the springs:

Sidewalls are now tucked inside the quarter panel flair by about 5/8" on both sides:

Some profile shots with the wheels on the ground:

For now, we'll call this project done. Time to get those slicks put back in their bags for winter storage.

GreenMachine · 12-28-2012, 09:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dennis111

Re-drilled and threaded a hole to support the brake hose bracket:

On my '68 Cougar, that's an axle vent. Is it not necessary?

And those slicks look... well... slick!

Fordwiser · 12-28-2012, 09:53 AM

Think his vent is to the left and slightly lower then the bolt, just hard to see, it is needed will build pressure as the grease heats up and push it past the axle seals.

Roger

GreenMachine · 12-28-2012, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fordwiser

Think his vent is to the left and slightly lower then the bolt, just hard to see, it is needed will build pressure as the grease heats up and push it past the axle seals.

Roger

I didn't pay any attention to that before, I was thinking too hard about it... and the vent makes sense, too. Thanks!

dennis111 · 12-28-2012, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fordwiser

Think his vent is to the left and slightly lower then the bolt, just hard to see, it is needed will build pressure as the grease heats up and push it past the axle seals.

Roger

Bingo! You got it.

Sifu-Sitaigung · 01-01-2013, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by n2omike

Nice work, Dennis! I want to see those big monster tires under there!

Ya know! I have seriously considered going into the business of narrowing rear-ends. I have full welding qualifications on everything from Carbon steel to stainless to copper nickel, He** I am a pipefitter by trade and build USN vessels for a living at the only yard in the world that can build a US carrier...

Oh, wait, because they paid to get me qualified, they own my quals....so I would have to go pay to take the certification tests publicly to release me from the whole liability thing....THAT'S why I haven't...

BTW..decent looking tig weld on your axle housing...I work with guys (I can if I take my time) that can weld a weld on a piece of .065 wall pipe and make it smooth as glass......

(Maybe I should go get my public certs......Hmmmm..)

GREAT project you have going. It really is gorgeous! I am jealous...hehehe

One day The Beast will look that good; I hope lol.

Thank you for sharing! It gives me something to strive for!

Tommy

Gydyup · 01-02-2013, 07:04 AM

[QUOTE=Sifu-Sitaigung;1716171]Ya know! I have seriously considered going into the business of narrowing rear-ends. I have full welding qualifications on everything from Carbon steel to stainless to copper nickel, He** I am a pipefitter by trade and build USN vessels for a living at the only yard in the world that can build a US carrier...

Hey another Tidewater bubba on here. Awesome.
There is a guy in Norf, Sonny's Chasis, does nothing but rearend shortening and frame work. Good dude, good prices, been at it along time.
He doesnt have a monopoly on the market, there isnt a market. Its a pretty limited customer base.

Where he does make his bread and butter, he has figured out how to true these big darn DONK rims when the boys hit the potholes. He will true the rim for 50% of the cost of a new rim, good deal for all.
Now there is a market for you if you want to parlay that quality Govt skill into some cashes.

Not that I am saying your not qualified or cant weld, you boys build some fine ships. But there are more big darn wheels around here than shortened rear ends. Buddy of mine is director of Steel up there, started out as a welder. Go figure.

Gydyup · 01-02-2013, 07:13 AM

"Chris, Wow, that's narrow--I have several inches clearance there, as should be evident in the next few photos Ill post. You should be able to move just the springs inboard without too much work and yet leave the wheel wells alone-if you wanted.

My understanding is that the wheel wells for a 67/68 are wide enough for the 28x10.5's slick on a 10" wheel, but I am not sure if that is correct?? That is the most common sized "small tire" slick that is used by the power hitters at our track, including the G-Force owner's personal favorite fox body. "

I still have not check your measurments against mine, everytime I go to the shop, I get sucked into rubbing that fender or mocking up the GT/CS fiberglass stuff.
It is tight, it had 28X9X14s on 9.5 rims, cant recall the back space, but the car pretty much swallowed me, except the bottom the body rolls in more on the 67 68 than yours. I had a 3/8 spacer behind the wheel to keep the rubber off the springs.

Be interesting to see the diff in our housings. I can not recall what mine is.

Sifu-Sitaigung · 01-02-2013, 01:41 PM

[QUOTE=Gydyup;1716275]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sifu-Sitaigung

Ya know! I have seriously considered going into the business of narrowing rear-ends. I have full welding qualifications on everything from Carbon steel to stainless to copper nickel, He** I am a pipefitter by trade and build USN vessels for a living at the only yard in the world that can build a US carrier...

Hey another Tidewater bubba on here. Awesome.
There is a guy in Norf, Sonny's Chasis, does nothing but rearend shortening and frame work. Good dude, good prices, been at it along time.
He doesnt have a monopoly on the market, there isnt a market. Its a pretty limited customer base.

Where he does make his bread and butter, he has figured out how to true these big darn DONK rims when the boys hit the potholes. He will true the rim for 50% of the cost of a new rim, good deal for all.
Now there is a market for you if you want to parlay that quality Govt skill into some cashes.

Not that I am saying your not qualified or cant weld, you boys build some fine ships. But there are more big darn wheels around here than shortened rear ends. Buddy of mine is director of Steel up there, started out as a welder. Go figure.

Yup, the VP of Yard Operations is an Apprentice Graduate and started in The Apprentice School as a welder too. There is something to be said about following your dreams and never giving up. Just like our cars, they stick around because WE have the dream.

Gydyup · 01-03-2013, 09:20 AM

[QUOTE=dennis111;1714709]I have been meaning to mention that my leaf spring perches are 37" apart on-center and that the housing is now 49 1/2" in overall length from end to end (without the various contours of the backing plates.) The measurement from the outer diameter of the backing plate (measured at the closest places to each other) is 47". I have nearly 4" from there to the outer edge of the spring perch.

I checked mine last night, curiosity mostly. Really quick and dirt so not exact, my rear is 47.5 back plate to back plate, that protruding ring around the outer edte of the back plate.

I have one inch from that ridge of the back plate to the springs. Springs would be my limiting factor for tires I think. Like I said, I had some big meats on it and it took em, had to run a spacer to keep the slicks off the springs.

dennis111 · 01-03-2013, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dennis111

The measurement from the outer diameter of the backing plate (measured at the closest places to each other) is 47". I have nearly 4" from there to the outer edge of the spring perch.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gydyup

I checked mine last night, curiosity mostly. Really quick and dirt so not exact, my rear is 47.5 back plate to back plate, that protruding ring around the outer edte of the back plate.

I have one inch from that ridge of the back plate to the springs. Springs would be my limiting factor for tires I think. Like I said, I had some big meats on it and it took em, had to run a spacer to keep the slicks off the springs.

The original spring perch distance on both of our cars were the same distance when they were produced, but your housing was wider then. As part of the mini-tub, I relocated the springs in 3" per side so that explains most of the difference in our measurement from perch to backing plate. I have been using a 10" wide rim with the very common 5.5" backspace. Your 9.5" rims must have something like a 3" backspace at the most. That's a deep dish!

If your are confident in cutting your front frame section and welding in the new frame brackets, it isn't too hard to do with the $150 or so Crites kit. More un-nerving than hard. New offset shackles are included for the rear, but the frame bushings sent with mine were not correct, but I tooled some aluminum ones up at work that better fit the frame instead of messing with Crites again (they are notoriously slow.) They have held up well so far and had no concern-able wear. Since I had the springs down for the "2nd narrowing", today I made some hardened steel sleeves that I will insert in the bushings. That should help prevent wear and allow me to really loosen up the shackles when racing.

Gydyup · 01-04-2013, 05:45 AM

Your 9.5" rims must have something like a 3" backspace at the most. That's a deep dish!

Yep, they were very deep dish, probably wont go back to that big again.
I guess the offset springs are strong enough? I was alwasy suspect of that.

Did you move and weld up your spring perches? Not sure I am that good, or trust myself. Freind of mine lost a beautiful 67 Camaro because his spring perch broke going into second gear.