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Old 02-13-2010, 11:01 AM   #1 (permalink)
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XXX blocks...

...other than being a roller block...what is so special about these?

I'm still waiting to hear back from the seller with the casting numbers...

If the $$$ is right...I might think about going roller... instead of flat tappet...

Although there ain't nothin' wrong with a flat tappet motor as far as I'm
concerned since this will not be a daily driver...goin' in my '56 f100...

I already have 2 non-rollers...'70 302-2V Holley truck motor & '83 'Stang GT
4V Holley motor...

...so I guess $$$ is the only concern...and what year thing is...and what it is
out of...



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Old 02-13-2010, 02:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: XXX blocks...

Nothing special beyond the factory roller cam and one peice rear main seal. It's not as strong in the main bearing area as the '70 block.
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Old 02-15-2010, 09:34 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: XXX blocks...

It's not as strong as an early block? In many areas it is stronger. Check the webbing again and look in the core plug holes, there's webbing between the cyls. lifter bores are longer and have more material around them un like the early block. Oh yea, weigh them (not a Mexican) and compare.
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Old 02-16-2010, 04:51 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: XXX blocks...

The extra material around the lifter bores is to support the extra length of the roller lifters and is common to all factory roller blocks.
I have never looked inside the core plugs so you could have a point there.
I am certain the webbing area between main registers and the cam tunnel is inferior to the pre-74 blocks.
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Old 02-17-2010, 03:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: XXX blocks...

Thanks for all your input!!!

One of my reference books lists a 1970 302 bare-block as weighing in at
right around 132-lbs. !

To me...thats a whole bunch of iron...especially when ya figure a late
model 1986-2001 5.0 bare-block tips the scales at about 126 Lbs. according to Ford's 5.0 Mustand book...

So I'm thinkin'... there is a fair share of iron in that 'ol-boy...

Maybe plenty to drill out for a retro-fit cam.. OR..

...just go with a SBC cam and forget all this crap about dealin' with these yahoo's that claim they "want" to sell the late roller blocks and never return email OR answer the phone...

Although I must admit...the one I missed this past weekend was due to a
very close friends Mom passing away...

I think that flat tappet will sound just fine in my '56 Effie screamin' around
5800......

Hey 68fastang...I thinkin' about a "used" set of Canfield's that nesr me...here is the latest email I recieved...

[SIZE=3]"I bought them November of 2000, so I would have had them on the car to run for spring of ‘01.
I didn't run the car at all between 2002-2005, between then summers only. 3000-miles tops. Part number is 20-450-58-0."

Says they have been sittng ever since...I have not seen them YET...gonna try to get there this week...I'm hoping that all this crap on the internet about first series Canfield's is just rumor...

Anyway...solid flat tappet oir hydraulic...??? [/SIZE]

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Last edited by rocherman; 02-17-2010 at 03:33 PM.
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Old 02-18-2010, 07:13 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: XXX blocks...

I have read that the cracking issue with the early Canfields was limited to "17 pairs" of heads that were "cast in the late 1990's".
About a year ago at the track I pitted by a fellow who was also running Canfields on his 408 SBF. He had the newer 195cc heads(as do I).During the conversation he told me he originally had the older 192cc heads,and that both of those had cracked between the exh ports and the lower row of head bolts. So either he had one of those 17 pairs or the problem was a little more widespread.
Still, the majority of 192cc heads are out there running with no problems.Just closely inspect the heads you are considering and you should be fine.

Sounds like you are building an engine for a cruiser that won't see over 6000 rpm?? If that's the case,I would stay with a hydraulic cam.

Also in that application,you won't need the added strength of the 70 block. A late model block would be ideal in that situation IMHO due to the one piece rear seal and cheap roller cam install.

I don't know your reference books mention it,but all late 80's and up 5.0 blocks are roller cam compatible.They may have had flat tappet cams from the factory,but the blocks themselves have the raised lifter bores(like the block in your picture) and the raised bosses in the lifter valley to retain the spider.

Not sure how far you are from Cleveland,OH., but I see there is a couple of Pullapart's there. Pull-A-Part
With a little sweat you could get a 5.0 shortblock from a F150 or Econoline for a little under a $100. If I remember right,94 and newer motors will already have a roller cam in them.
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Old 02-18-2010, 10:12 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: XXX blocks...

Thats kool...I'm waitin' to hear back..don't even know if they are 165's or what...

Although...he did mention this in another email..

"I got them from Ron @ Fox Lake, talked with him quite a bit before buying....
Mine was a 306, long runner Edelbrock performer, wolverine 1190 cam, and the
heads have 2.02/1.60 valves.
I was running when the car was N/A. I've got an ’89 Mustang.
They ran good on it boosted, but I saw more of an improvement when it was N/A.

Street car, ran 12.10 @ 109 N/A. Milan..."

Street car? Hhhmmmm....ok...

Then.....in the last email...he let THIS slip out...

"I have met and worked with Jon Fenton for a while at my previous job, developing
an EFI single plane intake manifold for SB-Ford engines, hence
the reason I have Canfield heads."

Hhhmmm...kinda makes me wonder exactly how much he paid for these...???

We will see...I'll keep ya posted...

...he is building another motor that is boosted as well & looking for "a larger cc
chamber to lower the compression a little."

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Old 02-18-2010, 12:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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XXX blocks & Canfield question...

Does ANYONE remember when...

165's went to 170's...?

192's went to 195's...?

Just double checkin' a few "things"...ya know...???

-Thanks again...gettin' closer...one step at a time....

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Old 02-19-2010, 04:59 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: XXX blocks...

I was not aware there was a 165 before the 170.

The 195s came out,I'm guessing a little here,around 2005.

The heads you are looking at are 192s.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rocherman View Post
. Part number is 20-450-58-0."
-
20=valve angle
450= 192 int runner
58= comb chamber cc
0= non cnc comb chamber

A -475 for the second number would indicate the 195s.
A -1 for the last number would indicate a cnc combustion chamber.
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Old 02-19-2010, 08:45 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: XXX blocks...Canfield's...LIFE...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 68fastang View Post
I was not aware there was a 165 before the 170.

The 195s came out,I'm guessing a little here,around 2005.

The heads you are looking at are 192s.


20=valve angle
450= 192 int runner
58= comb chamber cc
0= non cnc comb chamber

A -475 for the second number would indicate the 195s.
A -1 for the last number would indicate a cnc combustion chamber.
Thanks man...that is what I have been tryi' to find!

I guess the ones I've run across so far just were not meant for me...can't
seem to get together to even look at the damn things..let alone haggle
over $$$.

One dude has ALL my contact info & I hear nuthin'.

Just found a 2nd set across town as a backup...I HATE doing this stuff
over the internet! MUCH eaiser face-2-face...

Post says; Canfield 195's 202 mild port $700

NO other info....how can people BE so lazy???????




I don't know about you..but when I sell used parts...I like to clean 'em up
just a little before I post any pic's of 'em...

The good news is...the original ad was posted sometome in Dec. '09 & I just
got an email & he told me " just sitting inside my garage"...at least he replied!


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Old 02-19-2010, 08:52 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: XXX blocks...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 64post View Post
It's not as strong as an early block? In many areas it is stronger. Check the webbing again and look in the core plug holes, there's webbing between the cyls. lifter bores are longer and have more material around them un like the early block. Oh yea, weigh them (not a Mexican) and compare.
The roller blocks are certainly not as strong as the early 289-302. The number 1 area is underneath the main cap registers, rollers are much thinner and the early blocks have a blind main bolt hole unlike the rollers and this is the number one spot a roller block cracks at. Once the main cap chatters it breaks the block at the main bolt hole. If you ever look at pictures of a broken roller 302, you will notice cap chatter
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:03 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Re: ROLLER blocks...

OK...startin' to pick up some steam...maybe my OL' Irish Luck is workin'
it's magic...

IF I ran across a 1991 302 roller block....would the casting number
be F1AE?

Or is that a 4.6 modular block? Inquiring minds want to know...

Another online ad...block & crank dropped off at a small local speed shop FOUR YEARS AGO...customer never returned, the owner tells me...

crank was polished...block "just" hot-tanked......hhhhmmmmmmm.

MOSTLY..I'm wondering about the casting numbers!!!

Can anyone help with this also..all my reference is mostly non-roller...THNX!

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Old 02-19-2010, 09:08 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Re: XXX blocks...

F1 is a roller block
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:42 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Re: XXX blocks...

Soooo....F1AE casting IS a 302 roller block..interesting...thanks Woody...

I asked this BECAUSE....I called a local ford dealer parts department...and...

...although my "regular" dude did NOT pick-up the phone...whomever I asked
the same question to TOLD ME that a F1AE block casting is NOT a 302
block...

.......this.......from a Motorsports dealer!


I cannot wait to stop by there after lunch & see Chris....

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Old 03-12-2010, 01:33 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Re: XXX blocks...

Thats it! I'm finished tryin' to spend my $$$ with these @#$%^&*.....

The good Lord saw fit go give me these KILLA SRS forged slugs......

I'm stickin' with my old heavy-azz block!!!

The few dudes I "tried" to deal with on bare blocks with are mere MORONS...

Could barely get a casting number number out of most of these fellas....the rest of them thought the stuff they had sittin' around all rusted up was made of platnum!

Retro-fit or flat is IS.....gonna take a ride a talk to Chris Holbrook.

I was born & raised right across the way from his Dad's shop....back in the day....

Hydrualic OR solid....FLAT or Roller...


I do not care at this point...this ani't NO DD......

This is gonna be an AZZ-kickin' road burner.....


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Last edited by rocherman; 03-15-2010 at 10:46 PM.
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