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Old 12-13-2008, 12:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

In an attempt to lessen the effort that it takes to push my clutch pedal, I elected to install the Mustang Steve pedal support repair kit. This kit is primarily utilized to repair a bad clutch/brake pedal support should the pot metal bushings be worn beyond use. I found the kit to fairly complete and the enclosed instructions to be adequate. I also believe that they would be better if it included a couple of diagrams or pictures.

First remove the Clutch/Brake pedal support from the car. That is not the subject of this tech article and it will be somewhat difficult if you are mechanically challenged. I do recommend having a shop manual on hand as it is very useful as a reference. This installation was specifically done on a 65/66' type Mustang support, although the modification is also applicable to Falcons, Comets, Fairlanes and other Fords, plus some GM, and Mopar cars.

Here is what the support and related parts looks like when assembled under the dash:





Note that the pedal stop is not shown. It would have been bolted to the square hole. Also note that there are nylon bushings found in the spring eyes. They are not included in the kit.

Here are the parts of a stripped pedal support:



Note that the nylon bushings on the right. Two of the large ones will be eliminated and replaced with ball bearings.\

Here is a closer look at the original type bushings:



Here are the components that came in the Mustang Steve kit:



It included 2 roller bearings, 2 sleeves to hold the bearings, 4 washers, 2 nylon bushings for the brake pedal, and a new bushing for the brake pedal to master cylinder rod.

First I cleaned all the parts and inspected them for damage. I found that the driver’s side pot metal bushing was egg shaped, which is a common problem:



Next I removed the pot metal bushings with a chisel and a hammer. I had to mess around a little with it to find the proper technique.



Next wire brush and sand the areas where the pot metal washers had been to prepare for welding. Then tack the big washers inside the clutch support. They do not need to be solidly welded as they are simply used as spacer washers:



It is best if the holes in the washers are centered inside the original holes in the support.

Now it was time to weld the supplied sleeves to the support. The alignment of these parts are crucial to properly support the bearings. I followed Steve's instructions and cleaned up the clutch pedal stud by sanding it and removing the raised worn spots until they could slide through the new bearings.





If the original pot metal parts were severely damaged, the stud may have wear marks cut into them. Normally there is not a problem in reusing it anyways since this kit locates the stud's contact points away from their original location.

Now do a test assembly for fitting. Place a bearing on the stud of the clutch pedal. Then put the sleeve on the bearing. Pass the stud through the clutch/brake pedal support and then put a sleeve plus the other bearing on the stud. I temporarily held it all together with a cotter key.

Try to center the stud between the washers that you have already tacked inside the clutch/brake pedal support. Then it is time to do some more welding.

I tacked the sleeves in place and then I removed the clutch pedal assembly and the bearings. You do not want to get the bearings hotter than is necessary. Then I welded on the sleeves a little bit at a time, periodically allowing them to cool before starting again:







Complete the weld and then test install the bearings in the sleeves:



Caution: If too much heat is applied to the sleeves, they will shrink and the bearings will not go in easily. In this case, you will need to be open up the sleeve slightly with a die grinder:



From the instruction sheet, I gathered that needing to grind is a common occurrence. The bearings should still fit snugly in the sleeves.

Next put a small washer on the clutch stud and slide it partially into the LH bearing that has already been installed in the support. Install the nylon washers in the brake pedal and put it into position inside the support. Then slide the clutch stud through it and fully through the RH bearing. Install the remaining small washer and either the original clip, or a cotter key.





Everything should fit smoothly and not bind. If it does bind (which is common due to the welding heat,) the support will need to be tweaked until the parts can be assembled freely.



Once satisfied with the fit, I removed the bearings, did some sanding, cleaning, taping, and followed that with a nice coat of semi-gloss paint:



Paint on the top of the pedals and the pedal support black is not an original treatment. I did it simply for appearance and for protection from rust.

Reinstalled the new support under the dash and test the pedals.

In summary, I believe that this kit is by far the best way to repair a worn pedal support and chances are you will never need to repair the support again. If you feel that you do not have the necessary welding or fabrication skills in order to do this modification, it might be best to send your support to Mustang Steve and have him modify it for you (at an additional cost.)
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My little 65' Stang street car:



Dart 428W, 4 Spd, 4:33 rear, on pump gas.

10.553@127.81 with a 1.466 60'

Last edited by dennis111; 12-14-2008 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 12-13-2008, 02:20 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

Very, very good ...

Couple that with the "Spherical End Joint" treatment to the rest of the linkage and the clutch should be a real free flower.
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Old 12-13-2008, 03:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

A tip on disassembling the pedal assembly...

I've had mine apart a couple of times, and the first time I removed the clutch assist spring, it was dang near IMPOSSIBLE... as that is one STOUT spring! The next time, I accidentally found out that if you remove the pedal stop, the pedal moves up to the point the spring pretty much falls out all by itself. LOL!

Nice Job, Dennis!

ps You're not still using the clutch assist spring with the low pressure sintered iron clutch, are you? I ended up removing the spring on mine, as it would almost hold the clutch down on the floor!

Good Luck!
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Old 12-13-2008, 05:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

cool write-up
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Old 12-13-2008, 09:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

Another very good write up Dennis, I commend you!
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Old 12-14-2008, 08:50 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

Nice work Dennis...I'll be anxious to hear how much easier it is to push the pedal once its all back together with some load on it...
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Old 12-14-2008, 08:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

I want to do this to my F-100, but I don't know if it's necessary to get or use a smaller shaft, or get bigger bearings with the same inner diameter as the outer diameter on my current shaft...


FE
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Old 12-14-2008, 12:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

Thanks guys, I appreciate your kind comments.


Quote:
Originally Posted by frdnut View Post
Nice work Dennis...I'll be anxious to hear how much easier it is to push the pedal once its all back together with some load on it...
Thanks--I certainly hope to feel an improvement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FEandGoingBroke View Post
I want to do this to my F-100, but I don't know if it's necessary to get or use a smaller shaft, or get bigger bearings with the same inner diameter as the outer diameter on my current shaft...


FE
The Mustang clutch pedal stud shown has a .625" OD and the original pot metal bushings that the nylon bushing fit into are .700" ID.
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Dennis

My little 65' Stang street car:



Dart 428W, 4 Spd, 4:33 rear, on pump gas.

10.553@127.81 with a 1.466 60'

Last edited by dennis111; 12-14-2008 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 12-14-2008, 12:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

Quote:
Originally Posted by n2omike View Post
A tip on disassembling the pedal assembly...

I've had mine apart a couple of times, and the first time I removed the clutch assist spring, it was dang near IMPOSSIBLE... as that is one STOUT spring! The next time, I accidentally found out that if you remove the pedal stop, the pedal moves up to the point the spring pretty much falls out all by itself. LOL!

Nice Job, Dennis!

ps You're not still using the clutch assist spring with the low pressure sintered iron clutch, are you? I ended up removing the spring on mine, as it would almost hold the clutch down on the floor!

Good Luck!
Thanks Mike.

The technique that you found to remove the spring is the same as is found in the shop manual. Remove the stop and move the pedal against the dash. It really doesn't get much easier than that.

Although last year I ran without the assist spring, the mid-year PP rebuild resulted in a stiffer pedal. One that my bad legs had trouble holding to the floor. Something was wrong and I am ensuring that all my linkage is up to snuff. As a precautionary measure, I reinstalled the weakest pedal assist spring that I could find in my inventory. Not sure anymore if it was from a V8 or an I6 car, but it is definitely weaker. I figure that it is easy enough to remove if it should present a problem.
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My little 65' Stang street car:



Dart 428W, 4 Spd, 4:33 rear, on pump gas.

10.553@127.81 with a 1.466 60'
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Old 12-14-2008, 03:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Re: Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

Dennis, I ran my pedal up like you two mentioned, but only because it looked like it would make it easier.
It made the spring loose, but it was a bitch getting it back the extra 1/2 inch to slip it over the lip... GOing to mic the shaft in a little while.
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Old 12-15-2008, 07:39 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Re: Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

I have the Scott Drake kit, which is essentially the same but it includes a new shaft in case it's needed. And the instruction were very good with color photos.
http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.co...aringInstr.pdf
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Old 12-15-2008, 12:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Re: Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcd66250 View Post
I have the Scott Drake kit, which is essentially the same but it includes a new shaft in case it's needed. And the instruction were very good with color photos.
http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.co...aringInstr.pdf
That type kit is "OK", but best suited for an automatic transmission car. On the other hand, the roller bearing setup that I illustrated above is way overkill for an automatic and that is why I didn't include info about them.

I've used the Drake kit before and the problem that I had with it is the roller bearings need to ride directly on the shaft. Over time it will wear the clutch shaft which must spin inside it. The kit I used above uses sealed ball bearings and the balls ride within the bearing, thus virtually eliminating wear of the clutch pedal stud. Another problem is that the Drake rollers needed to ride exactly where the most wear is found on old shafts. The sealed bearing kit above places the bearing further outboard of where most shafts are damaged.

Purchasing a kit that includes the shaft is a good idea though. Unfortunately for us stick guys, the shaft that is included with the Drake kit can only used with an automatic. Aftermarket clutch pedals are over $100.
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My little 65' Stang street car:



Dart 428W, 4 Spd, 4:33 rear, on pump gas.

10.553@127.81 with a 1.466 60'

Last edited by dennis111; 12-15-2008 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 12-15-2008, 12:58 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Re: Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis111 View Post
That type kit is "OK", but better suited for an automatic transmission car.

Unfortunately for us stick guys, the shaft that is included with the Drake kit can only used with an automatic. Aftermarket clutch pedals are over $100.
Huh? Automatic trans with a clutch? I installed this in my factory manual trans equipped Maverick without problem.
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Old 12-15-2008, 01:15 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Re: Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcd66250 View Post
Huh? Automatic trans with a clutch? I installed this in my factory manual trans equipped Maverick without problem.
Well there is such a thing (had one in a factory built 52' Plymouth and a factory built 70' VW Beetle.) Both had a torque converter AND needed a clutch pedal too, but since that info has no "bearing" on our discussion we won't get into that . . . .

Quote:
Originally Posted by dennis111 View Post
This installation was specifically done on a 65/66' type Mustang support, although the modification is also applicable to Falcons, Comets, Fairlanes and other Fords, plus some GM, and Mopar cars.
In a 65/66' Mustang the basic pedal support is the same whether it is an automatic or a stick shift and either can be repaired with a bearing kit.

I am not familiar with how the Maverick parts work and will not pretend to know so.
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My little 65' Stang street car:



Dart 428W, 4 Spd, 4:33 rear, on pump gas.

10.553@127.81 with a 1.466 60'

Last edited by dennis111; 12-15-2008 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 01-08-2009, 04:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Re: Ball Bearing Clutch Pedal Support

This bearing kit will fit the F-100 and all other Fords from the 50's to the 90's. There is a write up on it at Fordification.com also. Similar to the one here in scope.
The main advantage of the complete bearing like my kit uses is the inner race. Even a brand new smooth shaft for the pedal (which I also offer if needed) is just mild steel, and much too soft to function for very long as a bearing race.
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