I finally got around to upgrading my factory points ignition in my 73 torino 351w. The Accel electronic distributor I picked needs full 12 volts instead of the 7-8 volts the points require. So I got out the factory shop manual wiring diagram and went to town.
You have to remove the cluster, we need to access the ignition switch on top of the column.
Once you get the cluster out of the way, unplug the harness on top of the ignition switch, and look for the red w/ light green stripe wire.
We are going to replace this R/LG wire. It has a built in resistor that terminates at the harness firewall junction behind the fuse panel. you will need to access the junction block closest to the fender on the inside of the car. however you need to unbolt them from the outside.
Here is a picture of the 1973 wiring diagram. It shows the bypass wire joining at the spade terminal of the R/LG wire. You need to join it with your new wire, otherwise your car will not fire while cranking.
Pull out the female spade terminal, and replace it with a new one that includes the bypass wire and your new wire. I used a red 14 gauge wire to run from this plug to my ignition switch.
Re-assemble everything, be careful mating up the firewall plugs as the terminals can bend easily.
You should now have 12 volts at your + terminal on your coil while engine running.
.
You have to remove the cluster, we need to access the ignition switch on top of the column.
Once you get the cluster out of the way, unplug the harness on top of the ignition switch, and look for the red w/ light green stripe wire.
We are going to replace this R/LG wire. It has a built in resistor that terminates at the harness firewall junction behind the fuse panel. you will need to access the junction block closest to the fender on the inside of the car. however you need to unbolt them from the outside.
Here is a picture of the 1973 wiring diagram. It shows the bypass wire joining at the spade terminal of the R/LG wire. You need to join it with your new wire, otherwise your car will not fire while cranking.
Pull out the female spade terminal, and replace it with a new one that includes the bypass wire and your new wire. I used a red 14 gauge wire to run from this plug to my ignition switch.
Re-assemble everything, be careful mating up the firewall plugs as the terminals can bend easily.
You should now have 12 volts at your + terminal on your coil while engine running.
.