First off, great article and thread. I have recently gotten around to converting my 67 mustang to disk and I used this as a guide. However, I am having an issue of not having hardy any stopping power. I have bled the brakes several times with no change. I've bled brakes before without issue so I don't think that's the reason. But when looking back over the install I notice there was a large gap between the back of the caliper bracket and the mounting surface of the caliper. I know as brakes wear the gap increases but it seems to be a lot to start with.
I used 1"spacers already. Any ideas? Thoughts?
I know this is an old thread but I wanted to add my experiences with this swap as possible aid to someone with the problem noted above. I followed the swap details with the Impala calipers, Granada rotors, speedway brackets and 75 maverick non-power master cylinder. I originally used my original 65 manual drum master cylinder PUSHROD. I bled and bled and bled the brakes and could not get a good pedal. It would go to the floor on the first pump and you had to pump to get a pedal. I looked at multiple posts about brake bleeding,etc. Then I noticed in NPD's catalog that they recommend an adjustable master cylinder pushrod with a modified attachment to the pedal on all manual disk brake conversions. So I fabricated an adjustable brake pushrod. With a little bit of extension of the pushrod I now have a very firm pedal and very good brakes! I did not add a proportioning valve but after research about how it keeps the backs from locking in a panic stop I may. I did add a 10 lb residual valve to rears.
Also I will add that I got rebuilt calipers from my local parts store and that was probably a mistake as I did not have any cores. By the time I paid the core charge I could have had new calipers. This swap is still much cheaper than many of the swaps on the market but you need to be able to do some fabrication. If you can't fabricate an adjustable master cylinder pushrod the one NPD sells is about $50.