Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum - View Single Post - 68 Cougar XR-7 Build
View Single Post
post #38 of (permalink) Old 04-12-2014, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 1,287
Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

Originally Posted by dennis111 View Post
I like the bungs coming off the side of the sump. The rear mounted stuff always looks like crap to me and frankly scared me away.

Your pretty handy with a flux core welder on that thin sheet metal. I have one and really couldn't lay a bead down like that even with .030 wire.

As far as the engine compartment, you've got a lot of work ahead of you. I know that you are thinking Mustang II rack, but have you seen this thread that talks about Omni/GM racks having an angle that might be desireable?
Thanks Dennis! On the last tank I sumped, I made my own side exits using a piece of 3/4" mild pipe from Home Depot. I slotted it to allow fuel into it then passed it through two holes I drilled in the sides and welded it up. It was easy enough to adapt from the NPT to -AN after that. I just used 1/2" pipe plugs in the rear bungs:

I later ran a -8 return line to the other side. This time around, I'll actually have two -12 feeds tee into the pump, and I'll braze a -8 return bung into the factory sending unit where the original feed would go.

On the welds, lol...well, thanks! It still leaked though. Flux core wire leaves a lot of porosity in the weld, and if water seeps through, fuel will definitely seep through. Not being able to really get any heat/penetration for fear of blowing it out doesn't help. The method I've found best for welding sheetmetal is to first make sure there's overlap. Then, start the heat on the doubled up portion until you get your puddle, then 'push' the puddle down to the single layer...and back up to the doubled portion. That completes one stitch. At that point you release the feed until the stitch cools enough to let your lens go bright again (usually about 1-2 seconds), at which point you make your next stitch. Done properly you get a nice, smooth rhythm and it goes really quickly. This seems to help a lot with warpage too. I welded that sump in pretty much one continuous bead down a side (stopping every inch or so to tap the next inch of flange down flush with a punch...the heat often separates the two pieces), then switched to the other side, etc. Once it's all done, I use a stiff wire wheel and a small amount of grinding to get any boogers off, then a quick, semi thick smear of JB weld as a seam sealer...let it cure, and then paint it. I'm pretty happy with the method, and I think the only way to do any better really is with a tig.

On that rack...I got super excited for a minute when I saw the link...then I quickly realized once I started reading that it's a rear steer rack lol. I need a front steer deal unfortunately. Ahh well though...I'll either find something else that works, or shorten this M2 unit I have already. If I find something else, at least I can resell the M2 unit quickly...the older street rod crown around here snap them up off of Craigslist as soon as they're posted.

~These are just some of the drawbacks guys who like to go mach 10 with our hair on fire and these little motors screaming at rpms that make other guys cry...have to deal with.~
Is1BadFord is offline  
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome