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post #40 of (permalink) Old 04-15-2014, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 1,287
Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

Got a BUNCH done today!

Drilled out the factory spring seat. Three spot welds to drill, and a punch to remove the seat. Came out pretty easily actually.

This is the lower support on the Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates. It's made to sit just like this, only under the shock tower.

I had to drill two holes, and wallow out a third (I used a 3/8" round file chucked up in my cordless drill to make adjustments to the holes I drilled, and to open up the slot more for the third bolt). I made sure the holes left a bit of interference (I don't want that plate dropping, ever)...then drew it up with the supplied bolts and washers until it was flush with the underside of the shock tower (wait...should I be calling it a 'strut tower' now, lol?).

This shows a bit better where I drilled the holes, and how the plate sits nice and snug on its own. If you're doing this, make sure you don't make the holes too close to each other. Yes...the plate may still draw up, but the tops can spread out, and then you can't get the middle plate on.

Speaking of the middle's mine. Slips right down on the studs. Don't forget to use the 3/8" spacers they provide. Without them, the lower bolts on the middle plate (that mount the top plate) get caught on the hole in the shock tower...and you won't be able to adjust it.

And there's the top plate. Also, you can see how nicely the support plate fits inside the factory shock tower. Kinda surprising.

And there it is with the strut installed. Again...fits like factory. Plenty of hood clearance too! Also, since you can see the strut setup in there...I'd like to clarify that those springs are stupid stiff (like 450lb/in), and 10" uncompressed. They're in there for mock up, since the springs I'm going to be using are going to be about 9-10" compressed. These measured out at 9.75" with the hub at my chosen ride height. Perfect for mocking things up.

If a person REALLY wanted to, they could probably use the stock control arm. Just figure out a way to mod the LCA for a bolt in ball joint that had the right shank for the SN95 spindles. It all fits in there really clean.

Here you can see the rough alignment with it all just dropped in. It needs a bit more positive camber to be more vertical...I can adjust that in with the adjustable LCA's, and the caster camber plates. Also keep in mind that the picture is crooked, adding to the illusion of positive camber. Base the hub orientation off the tape measure for a better idea of what's what.

Ride height at 13.5".

With a wheel on...26" tire. Keep in mind there's no rotor, which will space things out minutely. This is pretty much where the factory spindle placed the wheel too (it might be a BIT more tucked...if I have to run a wheel spacer to make it look right, I will...we'll see when the time comes).

Soooo, I feel like I got a bit accomplished today. I'm still having trouble believing how easily this front end has gone together in a 46yr old car. I keep waiting for the big 'Oh ****!!' moment when I find something that's gonna make the entire thing not work lol...but so's been gravy!

I'm also really looking forward to the day I have the car pretty much complete, and put the thing on scales to check out the corner weights lol.

~These are just some of the drawbacks guys who like to go mach 10 with our hair on fire and these little motors screaming at rpms that make other guys cry...have to deal with.~
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