Although I agree completely with Randy's post above, the next time around be sure to have it sonic checked first, but go with the minimal overbore you can, and determine that by measuring with a torque plate bolted on or from the bottom with a head bolted on. Nowadays it's affordable and easy to order pistons in almost any size. Often you will find a cylinder or two with a thin spot on early FEs (or many) which can be fixed by a sleeve or two in that hole, or offset boring.
Although it seems like the early solid lifter blocks tend to be decent, as said above, they still were not designed for that overbore, and I have seen absolutely no consistency in FE blocks in terms of cylinder wall. In fact I recently passed on an early solid lifter 390 bored to 4.13 because it didn't check, it was nice too, about 1200 in machining with cross bolts, square decking, etc and also had to swap a block on a 461 CJ build because although it was potentially usable, with the power and customer's "do it once only" budget, I didn't trust it.
The issue tends to be that a whole bank will be "up and over" if that makes sense, making some sides real thick and others thin after it is finish bored at the factory.
FYI, the concern is not with overheating, it's with (best case) poor ring seal due to a flexing thin wall, and (worst case) a split cylinder and the carnage that may or may not trigger. All that being said, my 489 FE, 427 based, has been together since 2006 with a .047 over piston. That block is named "lucky" with 3 sleeves, a repaired pan rail within the repair of an earlier pan rail window LOL I don't know the story of the block, it had a hard life and I never blew it up, but it's certainly "stress relieved" by now and has been happy for 12+ years