74 4x4 C4 Rebuild - Page 2 - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 01:36 AM
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Re: 74 4x4 C4 Rebuild

Well done on the endfloat ..

As for the rings , The high/reverse are all the same . Clip the rings together and trial fit in the clutch drum bore . I trial fit every ring before fitting on the stator support.

For the forward rings here are two different widths , early vs later . Again trial fit in the forward drum. Then if a nice fit , assemble to stator support.

Believe me trial fitting like that is essential. I have had an incorrect ring that was very slightly undersize and a loose fit ..

Also check the rings in their grooves on the stator support. Steel rings should be fairly snug with a few though side clearance.

Teflon rings are usually a looser fit in the grooves . Early and late are different rings for the different width grooves . Trial fitting Teflons in the drum is the same method .
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 74 4x4 C4 Rebuild

Thanks, I will test fit the rings just to be sure. One question on the Valve Body and shift kit install. The 2-3 backout valve has a spring that goes in last and rides against the plate. Do I need that spring? My other valve body does not have a spring there. Not sure why
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-12-2019, 02:50 AM
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Re: 74 4x4 C4 Rebuild

That spring is not in all valvebodies . The Transgo kit does say it is optional to use . Some kits actually use a blocker in the 2-3 backout. I have also blocked that valve with a checkball in some of my own mods . You could IMO leave that extra spring out . From memory a Transgo spring is a bit heavier than original and may also partilly block that valve.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 74 4x4 C4 Rebuild

The pump rings checked out perfect. Better safe than sorry.

After I installed the Valve body it seems like my kickdown linkage is not pushing the valve in very far. The valve is free and can push in quite a ways but when Valve Body is installed the kickdown linkage don't seem to move it very far when applied from the outside. Maybe a 1/2 inch at the most. Do I have something wrong?
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 74 4x4 C4 Rebuild

Got the Trans installed and I have no leaks and all gears. It shifts really quick into second then has a split second Flare or rev from second to third. I used a TCI 2000 stall converter so I think it feels a little different in first than the stock converter. Should I worry about the Flare? Thank you all for getting me through this first rebuild. I'm very happy so far.
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 01:55 AM
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Re: 74 4x4 C4 Rebuild

Where is the modulator adjusted ? If it hasn't been adjusted they usually go in around 3-4 turns to get the correct spring tension. That may tidy it up.. Also a tweak of the band adjustment depending on what you set it at
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 03:32 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 74 4x4 C4 Rebuild

I have not adjusted the modulator. I installed it straight out of the kit. It's the one with the green stripe.

The new bands were adjusted 10 lbs of Torque then 1.5 out in the front and 3 turns out in the back.

It seems to be running very cool. I get around 140 degrees warmed up using a hand held thermometer at the pan and on the line. This is after a few trips up and down the road.

I will try the modulator adjustment first. Thanks Greg
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 01:34 AM
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Re: 74 4x4 C4 Rebuild

Yes definitely try the modulator , They always require adjustment.. The green stripe is a good choice

You could try running the front band a tad tight , say back out just over 1 turn , see if it makes a difference.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 04:42 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 74 4x4 C4 Rebuild

Yesterday I removed the Modulator and replaced the pin with the longer pin that came in the shift kit. Second gear now comes in later and right where I like it. The 2-3 flare seems to be gone. I drove around for about 20 miles and it all seems good now. I'm gonna put some more miles on it this week and see how it goes. After the long drive my trans temp was 165 so its staying cool.

I have a TCI 2000 stall converter and I can feel it engage right before the 1-2 shift. is this normal? It almost feels like a slight shift. I have always had stock converters so I'm not sure what I'm feeling. Thanks
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 02:33 AM
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Re: 74 4x4 C4 Rebuild

Good to hear .. The converter hard to say . Ones i've seen here around 2000 stall are barely noticeable . It's possible if you are making some torque it may stall a bit more than the advertised 2000, that might be what you're feeling when it couples up fully , below that is a little slippy to get you up to stall speed if that makes sense .
It can't be too bad or temps would be higher , where you're at is good .

The modulator pin is a good move , if you haven't already i'd still adjust the modulator in slightly. Transo give a weight to set the modulators on a scale and as I mentioned they can usually go in a couple turns to get to their spec
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-23-2019, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 74 4x4 C4 Rebuild

So when I take off in drive, That small rev I was feeling has now turned into a Shudder. When I take off easy in drive it will Shudder after about 20 feet Well before the 1-2 shift. It seems to be getting worse. When I take off in Low and shift through the gears there is no Shudder and all gears shift perfect. I think its happening at 2000 rpms but not sure yet. I will check it later. Any thoughts on what this could be? Thanks
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