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A/C for a 1966 Galaxie

13K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  Mannysee 
#1 ·
Anyone ever install an aftermarket (Vintage Air or other) A/C system in a 66 Galaxie that never had factory air?

What has been your experience? Anything you would do different?

Thanks! :smile2:
 
#8 ·
Piedmont? Where abouts?

I'm in Mebane, Got a guy in Burlington with a wagon, and a guy in Greensboro with a 66'.
Clemmons, near the Yadkin River.

For mine I purchased the factory bracket off ebay and got a york to saden converter plate. Works great for me and was ~$60.
Mine is a non-AC car, so the power steering pumps sits there. In the factory AC set-up, the power steering rides below the breadbox and has a remote reservoir. I think the AC ar may have three belts as well, while mine only had two.
 
#3 ·
I've done this on my '64 TBird non-AC car. I made several mistakes in the process but learned, and finally have a great system. This is a major change and several other components need to be upgraded. So plan ahead and budget.

For the evaporator, talk to the folks at Vintage Air and get a Gen IV kit. It has separate coils for heat and AC, and is microprocessor controlled so it dehumidifies the defroster cycle like a modern car. It's a little bit more than the cheap-o kits but well worth it. (I had one that sweated constantly, was noisy, and did not defrost worth beans.) This replaces your under dash plenum entirely. It does not take in fresh air (recirculating only) so you'll need to modify your cable operated fresh air venting.

VA Gen IV has electronic gizmos that convert your cable operated control pad to electronic signals that talk to the microprocessor. Easy as pie. If you don't see your application then call them- mine is from a 64 GTO.

For the compressor, any modern Sanden style will work. The trick is belting it to your existing set-up. I ended up using a March serpentine system. Their single belt system is $2000, their 2-belt is $800 but puts the outer belt closer to your radiator. These do not work with a mechanical cooling fan- so there's more money for an electric one. And the controller for the fan. These fans use a lot of electricity so you'll need to upgrade your alternator. My original was 40 amps, now it is 100. Then you'll need a small power panel with fuses and relays for the fan, then back-feed your OE panel with a fuse to protect that old wiring. The advantage of the March system is that it has an idler to put a large "wrap" around the alternator, so it doesn't squeal, as will happen if you put a 100 amp alternator on your stock V-belt system.

Your new coolant radiator will be mounted forward of your radiator in the OE position. Just make sure you have room in case you need to tilt the radiator for additional clearance if you did as I did and go with the two-belt drive system.

Lastly, is the hose routing. Fords of this era had a huge "breadbox" compressor mounted high on the driver's side and the hoses were always in the way. The March kit puts a little "peanut" compressor low on the passenger side- almost invisible. Then I routed the hoses on the outboard side of the frame then up to the firewall. I spent a little more and used a bulkhead fitting for all four houses instead of ugly grommets.
 
#7 ·
For the compressor, any modern Sanden style will work. The trick is belting it to your existing set-up. I ended up using a March serpentine system. Their single belt system is $2000, their 2-belt is $800 but puts the outer belt closer to your radiator. These do not work with a mechanical cooling fan- so there's more money for an electric one. And the controller for the fan. These fans use a lot of electricity so you'll need to upgrade your alternator. My original was 40 amps, now it is 100. Then you'll need a small power panel with fuses and relays for the fan, then back-feed your OE panel with a fuse to protect that old wiring. The advantage of the March system is that it has an idler to put a large "wrap" around the alternator, so it doesn't squeal, as will happen if you put a 100 amp alternator on your stock V-belt system.

For mine I purchased the factory bracket off ebay and got a york to saden converter plate. Works great for me and was ~$60.
 
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#9 ·
Here's the March 2-belt system mocked up. The cooling fan is off a Lincoln Mark 8. Since then I've moved the radiator forward (ahead of the factory mount and tilted the top forward) and achieved about an inch clearance.

The power steering (From a Chevy :surprise:) is mounted on the driver's side, more-or-less in the factory non-AC position. Amazingly the factory hoses fit perfectly.

The alternator is high on the passenger side, again close to original position. But note the huge wrap on the pulley made by the idler. The AC pump sits below it.
 

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#10 ·
Mine's a 63, the wagon Ziggy mentioned above, but I am in the midst of a full custom install. I'm using a restomod air Haymaker II with bluetooth controls. Once I get it up and running we'll see how cool the big black beast gets. I haven't worked on it much lately...too darn hot.
 
#11 ·
Another line of thinking to consider is what you're going for. Do you want to stay period-correct, restomod or does any of that matter?

I wanted to stay period-correct. My car was outfitted with an underdash John Mitchell Mark IV "Escort" soon after the car rolled off the dealership lot. I rebuilt the box myself using a new evaporator, expansion, control switches & heater motor. Surprisingly, all the parts were available in one form or another.

I added a rebuilt York compressor, clutch, filter/drier (Old Air Products), Ford 7-blade fan, Ford condenser and original nylon-type AC lines. The system is set up for 134a and blows nice and cold. I'm very happy with the end result. It looks original. Again though, that's what I was going for.
 

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#12 ·
Wow! Great responses!

Thanks All!

I guess I should have put in my first post exactly what I am going for.
I've done a bit of research already, but I'm not sold on any one system yet.

I'm looking at the Vintage Air Gen 4 Magnum Universal system since this is a big car and they say that system will cool the biggest sedans and Wagons.
Heat shielding the interior will be done as well.

The issue I have with the Gen 4 is size. Trying to judge if it will fit under/behind the dash.
I know I can buy a mock-up empty box for sizing/fitting, but was hoping someone had already done an install and could advise.

Of course I have not yet ruled out any of the other systems yet, so the advice given on those systems is great!.

I have already removed the stock heater box and even filled the holes from that. Firewall is now flat.

If needed, I could fab a "kickout" into the engine compartment to make the Gen 4 system fit, but I'd rather not, hence considering other, smaller systems.

Car is restomod so changes are no problem. Aware of the condenser,compressor,belts, hoses and mounting issues. Those will come later.
For now I'm focusing on the inside part as the body is a bare shell, and starting the build with getting the interior sorted out.

Thoughts?
 
#14 ·
No clue what model system I have under my dash. I can try to snap a few pictures for you since it's the same car. I know its a vintage air system. Be prepared to lose your glove box.
 
#18 ·
Great information here, I’m new here and started a different thread asking about AC units for my 65 LTD.
I’m starting to think I should just put the money somewhere else. I live in SoCal so yeah we can get pretty hot. Not even sure if it’s worth it.
thanks
 
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