New carb time... - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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New carb time...

Need some advice on a new carb and intake choice for my 67 289..
My GALAXIE is bone stock with the exception of an Hei distributor and dual exhaust..

I'VE a holley on it now and its nothing but troublesome since new.. 3 years ago.
I use my car as a daily.. I dont drive it hard. Never race it. All i want is reliability and not to always smell raw gas.
Thx for any help.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 09:07 PM
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Re: New carb time...

What cab do you have on it now?

Iowan
"Obsolete is neat"

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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 02:57 AM Thread Starter
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I'll have to get a model number off it after work. But i do believe it to be a 600 cfm vacuum secondary electric choke.
I bought it at AutoZone in a pinch 3 years ago after my stock autolite fell apart.
It was either that or leave my car sit out in the boon docks till i could get one from summit.
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 04:33 AM
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Re: New carb time...

What's the problem with your current Holley? They are easy to tune.
If they were no good, Ford would never have used them, especially on their multi carb set ups.

2003 Falcon BA XR8 Ute.
1972 Falcon XA GT.
1970 Galaxie 500 Sportsroof.
1963 1/2 Galaxie 500 Fastback.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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Well.. I could go out to start it.. say its around 45..55 degrees, cars sat all night.. starts up idles just fine puurrs like a kitten.. gets warm.. drive half mile down the road ,,come to a stop falls on its face.. raw gas so bad youx get sick... get it going again.. blow all that out.. and it'll run great.. so say you drive around town.. no problem.. run to the store.. shut it off.. wont HARDLY start.. barely get it home..

Next day she runs fine.. go to pull out into an intersection and it actually just shuts off. Im not joking around.. i barely pushed tbe accelerator and it actually just shut off.. no sputter.. nuthing.. it just freaking shut off...

Say it sets for 2 days.. go out fire it up.. around 65 degrees.. and it wont even idle.. dies so bad i cant even get it out of tbe drive..
Ive watched many tunning videos.. and thought maybe i could do this..
But ill tell u.. ive had 3.. 4.. different Holley carburetor over the years on different motors and only 1 was ever worth a crap i felt.

It was a 500cfm 2 barrel on my 65 mustang in high school 30 years ago.
Ive just no faith in them.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 10:58 AM
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Re: New carb time...

You have a vacuum leak somewhere...

Intermittent and/or temperature related.

Cracked hose, leaky/torn gasket, etc....

Holley carbs generally run great right out of the box, esp in a stock application, and IF the carb is the right one for the application.

Race carbs need tuning cuz every race engine/chassis combo is different.

Possibly have ignition problems as well...

The raw gas smell screams sticky needle and seat, and/or fuel line leaks somewhere.
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 11:53 AM
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I had the same symptoms when my electronic ignition module was going out. Mine was a Mallory. Want through a couple of them until I found out that voltage surges were the possible cause of it malfunctioning. Haven't had the problem in 3yrs since I put relays in for the halogen headlights. I was smelling gas also, and thought it was carborator. After a bit it would start and run ok. Next time this happens check for spark at the plugs, this will let you know if it's the ignition module. Hope that this possibility might help. Next t
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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I was thinking that possibly the carb was just to big. 600cfm.

I'LL check for vacuum leaks but i dont think there is one.. but maybe..
Also ill pull the carb see if the gasket is torn.. or do you mean inside the carb as well??
I dont understand the temperature related part ( please explain)


And by pulling one plug and hitting the key and it sparks does that mean its not the module??
Or do i have to go one plug at a time ??

I really appreciate the help guys thx.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 02:24 PM
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Re: New carb time...

Quote:
Originally Posted by My67Galaxie View Post
I was thinking that possibly the carb was just to big. 600cfm.

I'LL check for vacuum leaks but i dont think there is one.. but maybe..
Also ill pull the carb see if the gasket is torn.. or do you mean inside the carb as well??
I dont understand the temperature related part ( please explain)


And by pulling one plug and hitting the key and it sparks does that mean its not the module??
Or do i have to go one plug at a time ??

I really appreciate the help guys thx.
1. 600cfm is not too big.

2. Torn or leaky carb base gasket... maybe.
Inside the carb... unlikely, but possible.

3. Temp related vacuum leaks...

Hoses can be cracked and not leak until warmed up. (expansion)

Hot/Cold Expansion/Contraction of almost anything... including rubber hoses.

Example; PCV system leaks that don't show up until warm/hot. Bad PCV valve.

Also gaskets can leak if things are not properly torqued, and the leak will change depending on temp.
Intake gaskets, intake bolt torque are critical.

4. Ignition module...

Just because it makes spark cranking, does not mean it is good at all times. (hot/cold)

Ignition modules can go bad and work intermittently.
Usually heat related, they warm up when in use.
That's why the are built into an aluminum housing, to dissipate the heat.
The aluminum housing acts as a heat sink.

Run the car for 1/2 an hour and put your hand on the module, it will be warm,
even if mounted in an area that does not get warm from engine heat.

One way to test...
Start engine and put a 100 watt light bulb (LIT-UP) on the module to really get it hot.

Observe spark and/or if engine starts to run poorly or dies.

That should keep you busy for a while...
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 04:26 PM
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Re: New carb time...

When my Autolite 4100 did that, it was because the float was set too high.

Well, that was one time. Another time the choke was sticking closed, and another time the PCV hose had come off the carburetor (now that was a serious vacuum leak). Another leak was when I took off the spacer, not realizing that it was needed get the carb to fit correctly on an Edelbrock intake. Another vacuum leak happened when the nipple on my Power Brake check valve broke.

Another time the power valve gasket that came with the rebuild kit was too thin and let the gas drain out of the bowl every night. That reminds me on the time the accelerator pump housing got warped and was leaking gas onto the intake every time I hit the pedal. Another time my homemade weight that sits on the ball bearing got jammed up in the accelerator squirter... hey, that reminds me of the time those squirters were too low and I had to double up on the hollow bolt gasket to get them up right. On my first rebuild I did not run the carburetor with cleaner in the bottom of the bowl and did not make sure the little idle holes near the throttle plates were cleared. Turning my idle screws has never done anything.

Right now I have the throttle plates set so all the idle holes except one are above the plates. This is where it is supposed to be but the idle is too low for me. Some day soon I am going to pull the carb and open the secondaries just a tad, enough to raise the idle without having to raise the primary plate.

Probably these are Autolite specific failures but I am sure Holly has a similar list. I just can't understand why people love their EFIs. Good Luck!!

Putts drives a 1965 customized Galaxie. Rebuilt 390, 4100 electric choke on a Performer, MX, AC, PS, PB w Scarebird front discs on Cragar 17" S/S.
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post #11 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 04:32 PM
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Re: New carb time...

If you decide to change your carb, I highly recommend an Edelbrock. My 289 came with a Holley 600 on it, and like you, it was nothing but trouble. It could be the previous owner thought he was a carb tuner, but wasn't! I replaced it with an Edelbrock #1403 500 cfm, and haven't touched it in over 3 years- great right out of the box. Last August a buddy & I took it on a 16-day, 9-state, 4800 mile road trip, and it averaged between 17 and 20 mpg, fully loaded.
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1965 Ranchero Deluxe 66B
Factory 289 4-speed
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post #12 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Ok .. please forgive me here.. maube dumb question.. do you still have an ignition module when YOU have an hei style distributor?
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post #13 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 06:03 PM
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Re: New carb time...

Quote:
Originally Posted by My67Galaxie View Post
Ok .. please forgive me here.. maube dumb question.. do you still have an ignition module when YOU have an hei style distributor?
Which HEI style distributor do you have? Brand?

Some have a separate module mounted on the fender.

Some have the module inside the distributor.

I assumed you had the Ford style with the module on the fender.
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post #14 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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As to the make i dont know.. always thought it might be patronix but just because it's red does it mean so. Is that not the ignition module on the very top of the distributor cap?
Forgive the state of dirtiness she gets used a lot so far I've been quite fortunate I put many more miles on it than I have wrenched time
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post #15 of 32 (permalink) Old 04-17-2019, 07:00 PM
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Re: New carb time...

Quote:
Originally Posted by My67Galaxie View Post
As to the make i dont know.. always thought it might be patronix but just because it's red does it mean so. Is that not the ignition module on the very top of the distributor cap?
Forgive the state of dirtiness she gets used a lot so far I've been quite fortunate I put many more miles on it than I have wrenched time
Hello My67Galaxie,

Your distributor is an aftermarket GM first generation HEI made to fit a Ford engine. The module is at the base of the distributor inside under the rotor. The hump in the cap is the ignition coil. I've never known a first gen General Motors HEI module to have intermittent problems, but there is always a first. Just make sure the carbon button on the inside of the cap is present and pressing down enough to touch the top conductive metal tang on the rotor. Whilst you're in there you might as well check to make sure the mechanical advance portion is free and not frozen due to rust or hardened grease.

A lot of folks like this GM ignition setup because it's compact and doesn't require the use of a resistance wire unlike the vast majority of Ford Duraspark electronic systems. The only exception are the mid to late 70's California emissions Ford Duraspark ignition module with the red sleeve (versus the common blue). That system requires no resistance wire with the correctly mated ignition coil.

Good luck.

Cheers
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