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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-26-2005, 01:09 AM
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FE overheating question

Was is the over-bore on his engine? He may have just gotten too thin. He may want to try an aluminum radiator also as a crutch, but there is something else going on. I wonder if he may have swapped pullies at some point?

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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-26-2005, 09:35 AM
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FE overheating question

try a meat thermometer in the rad ,to see temp, and make sure rad cap,has proper pressue,but my 390 failane would run hot,after i took the shroud off, didn't pull enought air from corners,of rad, and if you turn heater on does the gauge drop. bill

STOCK winner points div3 dragway 1969 scj 428 [stick]cougar ,only ford= using a bottle like getting your kids from test tubes or kissing your sister lol
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-16-2010, 07:50 PM
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Re: FE overheating question

I have the EXACT same problem….plus lots of moolah involved.
Bought a fresh “422 HP” FE from Tuff Dawg engines of Arizona.
New Aluminum heads. Installed in my ’68 Cougar. From the instant
I started the engine (including the 15 minute break-in run) to this day…
200 miles later, it still is running
between 210’-220’. Frustrated, took to shop where my new Griffen
aluminum radiator was replaced with a MONSTER crossflow one
(so big, they had to move the battery to the trunk). Twin electric
fans with custom shroud also installed. Still running waaaay too hot.
Tuff Dawg suggests stock water pump instead of the high flow I put in.
Switch made…(anyone need a new Edelbrock aluminum hi flow water pump??
.Still no change. (see where the money pit is heading?)
Street Rods Plus of Lodi, CA. (shop I had try to figure this overheating issue
out) thinks maybe backward head gasket…not sure but frustrated also.
I did notice at one time while cruising, the temp dropped to about 190’
hmmmm. I wonder if the poster who says maybe old freeze plug may be
floating around inside the block has a point. At this point I guess I need to
pull engine (one year warranty from Tuff Dawg….hmmmm maybe have to
send it back to them…..more money)….maybe best to pull current freeze plugs out
and rotate on engine stand and hope something rattles around and is accessible to
take out….wish there was a simple solution….
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 12:56 AM
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Re: FE overheating question

Bull!
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 12:16 PM
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Re: FE overheating question

210-220 was normal on my 428

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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 01:49 PM
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Re: FE overheating question

Quote:
Originally Posted by ford4v429 View Post
A guy I used to work with has a beautiful 66 tbird/390...rebuilt the motor(think it was using oil) last year, now its overheating. he pulled the motor back out again, said the guy that built it had too tight ring gap/friction overheating(but I kinda think if it had been tight it would have seized/galled the bores/etc...), anyways- put back in, overheating, pulled back out, replaced head gaskets thinking one may have been installed wrong or something, overheating still...two water pumps, triple core radiator etc...still overheating.
I just saw him two days ago and he told me what he'd done, and how much he'd spent(first time I'd talked to him since last year before he tore it down). He said that it dont overheat driving or cruising on the highway, but as soon as he slows down, it heats up- heavy radiator added, 7 blade fan added, still heating up. he said someone told him he had the wrong heads~castings were no good(original parts), I told him I couldnt see how heads could overheat at idle/but not at cruising speed...sounded like water pump/fan/radiator issue to me, but hes replaced all these things twice already. he started it up for me and within 30 seconds the temp was pegging out...maybe some kinda air 'bubble' trapped in the water jackets?
I really doubted a cracked block/head, or 'wrong heads' as his buddy told him could result in overheating at idle but not at cruise rpm- would hate to see him throw more money in the wrong direction...it sure sounds like its not pumping enough water to me- cant imagine radiator contents heating that rapidly at idle...sure sounds to me like his pump aint moving any coolant at idle- suggested he leave cap off to prevent pressure and put some clear tubing on one of his radiator hoses to *maybe* see if anything flowing. something else- he has looped the heater hoses as his heater core started leaking- that couldnt bypass enough at idle to starve a head or something could it?
Anyone got any ideas or heard of any such thing before? Really a shame as this car is a cherry original, perfect everywhere except for this overheating thing. that car has the coolest red leather interior ive ever seen...anyone thats got any advice please share and I'll pass it along.

if you think it might have an air bubble in addtion to raising the car up as suggested you might try an old racers trick. take your thermostat and drill a 1/8" hole in the outer edge of it. that will allow the air to excape when it's cold and closed. make sure the hole is at the top. it will also allow a very small amount of water to be circulating all the time. may or maynot help but couldn't hurt.

alan

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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 03:29 PM
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Re: FE overheating question

what does he consider hot ???

whats the actual temp-- stick a thermometer into the water -- tell us what it reads---

his prob is either abad sending unit-- or one of the head gaskets are on back wards--

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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-17-2010, 06:05 PM
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Re: FE overheating question

You could check the temp gauge with one of these if you don't want to use your wife's meat thermometer.

Amazon.com: Mr. Gasket 2470B Domestic ThermoCap Radiator Cap With A Temperature Guage.: Automotive

Otherwise it looks like an air flow issue. Light up a cigar in front of the radiator and see if the smoke gets sucked in as fast as on your other car.

Putts drives a 1965 customized Galaxie. Rebuilt 390, 4100 electric choke on a Performer, MX, AC, PS, PB w Scarebird front discs on Cragar 17" S/S.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2011, 07:20 PM
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Re: FE overheating question

Quote:
Originally Posted by ford4v429 View Post
A guy I used to work with has a beautiful 66 tbird/390...rebuilt the motor(think it was using oil) last year, now its overheating. he pulled the motor back out again, said the guy that built it had too tight ring gap/friction overheating(but I kinda think if it had been tight it would have seized/galled the bores/etc...), anyways- put back in, overheating, pulled back out, replaced head gaskets thinking one may have been installed wrong or something, overheating still...two water pumps, triple core radiator etc...still overheating.
I just saw him two days ago and he told me what he'd done, and how much he'd spent(first time I'd talked to him since last year before he tore it down). He said that it dont overheat driving or cruising on the highway, but as soon as he slows down, it heats up- heavy radiator added, 7 blade fan added, still heating up. he said someone told him he had the wrong heads~castings were no good(original parts), I told him I couldnt see how heads could overheat at idle/but not at cruising speed...sounded like water pump/fan/radiator issue to me, but hes replaced all these things twice already. he started it up for me and within 30 seconds the temp was pegging out...maybe some kinda air 'bubble' trapped in the water jackets?
I really doubted a cracked block/head, or 'wrong heads' as his buddy told him could result in overheating at idle but not at cruise rpm- would hate to see him throw more money in the wrong direction...it sure sounds like its not pumping enough water to me- cant imagine radiator contents heating that rapidly at idle...sure sounds to me like his pump aint moving any coolant at idle- suggested he leave cap off to prevent pressure and put some clear tubing on one of his radiator hoses to *maybe* see if anything flowing. something else- he has looped the heater hoses as his heater core started leaking- that couldnt bypass enough at idle to starve a head or something could it?
Anyone got any ideas or heard of any such thing before? Really a shame as this car is a cherry original, perfect everywhere except for this overheating thing. that car has the coolest red leather interior ive ever seen...anyone thats got any advice please share and I'll pass it along.
so did you guys figure the overheating problem...
just curiouis
,, having a few issues my self....

%201964%20Galaxie/?action=view&current=09-03-10_1408.jpg Lars...
64 galaxie 500 2dr fastback...390 4v, Bendtsen adapter, maddog's stage3 700R4 trans,3.70 Posi..far from perfect but getting there...
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2011, 07:45 PM
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Re: FE overheating question

Quote:
Originally Posted by RAGGAREN View Post
so did you guys figure the overheating problem...
just curiouis
,, having a few issues my self....
Better to start a new thread of your own..This one is over 5 years old!


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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2011, 08:47 PM
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Re: FE overheating question

Quote:
Originally Posted by frdnut View Post
Better to start a new thread of your own..This one is over 5 years old!
wonder if ford4v429
still remebers the final outcome...he said in his last post ..ill let you know and thats were it ended...
just curious...
since he's still a frequent flyer here on FMF....

i guess someone dugg it back out last year and i didn't realize it was 6 years old.............

%201964%20Galaxie/?action=view&current=09-03-10_1408.jpg Lars...
64 galaxie 500 2dr fastback...390 4v, Bendtsen adapter, maddog's stage3 700R4 trans,3.70 Posi..far from perfect but getting there...

Last edited by RAGGAREN; 04-08-2011 at 08:56 PM.
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