I talked to a local shop and they thought that the wheel was spinning inside the wheel.
???????? Don't understand.
I do have a Lakewood Safety Bellhousing and no driveshaft safety loop. The exhaust x-pipe is underneath the driveshaft do if it did fall it would be caught on the exhaust (I know it's definitely not safe).
The loop also keeps you from personal contact with the shaft. The shaft can beat the living crap out of a tunnel.
For suspension (Front) I'm running total control products front coilover conversion Total Control Products
With an ADCO sway-bar. (Rear) I'm running Cal tracs mono leafspring with cal-tracs traction bars and varishock struts.
The front was originally lowered (like almost slammed to ground) with camber and toe in for handling. The car is raked in the rear probably about an inch or two which is definitely hurting weight transfer. According to what I've heard is that I need to raise the front end up at least an inch or two. It's adjustable (with spanner wrenches), then take it to get aligned, unbolt the front sway-bar (for weight transfer)and have the camber and toe in zero'd out. The rear cal-tracs need adjustment I'm sure.
Add 4-5 degrees of caster to that alignment and the car should go straight down the track.
The suspension, both front and rear should work freely with no bind. I am not familiar with your TCP setup, but to help weight transfer it might be advantageous to install weaker coils which wouldn't have come with a road race setup. If the front shocks are adjustable, good-especially if they are double adjustable. Not sure that raising the front end would be beneficial, but it would certainly affect the car from going straight down the track. Dropping the end of the front sway bar would be good. I eventually just left mine off.
The Calvert setup on the rear is good stuff. I suggest putting the Caltrac bar in the lower hole with zero preload (with driver's weight in the seat.) That might help stop the spinning off the line. If the rear shocks are double adjustable, that is good too. They must also be long enough so that they never bottom out at launch or else it will lead to spinning. I recommend using shackles with through bolts and nylocs. The nylocs are left a little loose on purpose so the shackles can pivot without the bolt needing to rotate. I also do the same at the front of the leaf springs too.
Is your battery mounted in the trunk? Putting it on the passenger's side helps both weight transfer and traction as does adding additional ballast.
A camera is your friend. Try to get some video of the launch and run from different angles. There is a ton of stuff to learn from them.
I'm currently deployed in sandland
Thank you for your service.
I also heard that running pizza cutters up front is less rolling mass, wind resistance mass and can knock off a few tenths of a second. Have you had experience with pizza cutters?
No experience with them but would be worth a few hundredths. Tenths only if all the wheels are light weight. I'm more into the stock look and that is why my turd is so darn heavy. I run stock type steel wheels for the classic nostalgia look.
Street look with 8" rear rims:
The drag slicks are also mounted on similar 10" wide steel rims which give the car a nice rake: