In street mode it has a nice rumble but really is not that loud as you can stand behind it an talk at idle and when I'm driving I can still hear the radio. At the track I run only the short race bullets--and it's VERY loud. A true Dr. Jekyll, Mr Hyde vehicle. Woowahahahahaaaa. LOL
Not sure if you want a true drag slick or a street/strip tire. A Hoosier Quick Time Pro is streetable and works well at the track (better than the bias type ET streets.) Both would work better if a tube was installed (more on that later.)
I would much rather see you swap on some true drag slick, even if you need to swap them out at the track. I can only guess at what room you have under the rear, but at 26" tall you would have 2 good MT choices that I have used. MT# 3052 26/8x15. I'd run tubes in that one for sure to stiffen the sidewalls. Better yet would be a stiff wall slick, but they are found only in other, typically wider sizes. #3053S is 26/10x15S ("S" denotes stiff wall) and it works very well. I have ran them on an 8" wheel before, but a wider 10" wheel is preferred. What I run now is a taller #3055S 28.0/10.5-15S stiff wall on a 10" wide rim-that is as big a slick as I can get under my mini-tubbed stang. It is a wicked slick that takes properly setup cars into the 8's, but it is tall and has wide sidewalls which can affect wheel well clearance.
Something that I haven't ran, but others have is MT # 3054ST 28.0/9.0-15 which is newer on the market and made specifically for a stick car and it works on an 8" rim. It might be possible that you could make it fit under your car.
Hoosier has good slicks too, but except for the QTP's, I have always ran MT's.
For the record, if you have a choice of a wide slick or a tall slick, traction-wise, it is normally better to go with the taller one as it gives more contact patch with the pavement. The 28" tall 10" tread tire was a big improvement over the 26" tall 10" wide tire on my car.
Stiff walls are preferred on a stick car because they hit the tires hard which breaks down the normal sidewalls in short order. Once the sidewalls go, so does your consistency. The stiff walls cost a little more but they have increased longevity too so you can use them longer.
IMHO, tubes should also be installed in the stiff wall. Besides adding a little more stiffness, they maintain air pressure better as it can't escape out of the sidewalls like a regular slick can (I got a trick for that too.) Any time you install a tube in a race type tire, the slick has to be screwed to the rims. I ran without tubes (and screws) for a few years and simply ignored the fact that the tire would slip a couple of inches on the rim on race nights. Lots of people do it. This year I installed tubes and perceive that they were beneficial off the line.[/QUOTE]
Thanks again on the awesome break down of tires. I rolled the fenders and I kind of fell that 275 is the widest I can go on a 26" tire. I believe can squeeze a 28" tire if I ran lets say a 265 or 255. I hear you on running an all out non DOT slick on a spare set of wheels at the track!! I'm actually looking for a good used set (rears only) wheels. Like a 15X8 or 15X10. Do you know of anyone who has some for a reasonable price? I believe this wicked Windsor can get dialed into the 10.90's with suspension adjustments (especially with the power curve on the dyno sheets). It freakin pulls like no other. love the small block pushrod V-8. Not too big of a Modular DOHC V-8, but that's a whole nother story. Thanks again bud.