If you have transplanted a efi setup into a older car?
Hate to ask the obvious, but did you run key on power to the ecu and the fuel circuit?
+1. Exactly my angle to test for.
... no power at pump or pump relay so there's more too it
And no cel on when key turned on
There's your fuse and relay testing. Using the wiring diagram on the page I linked to early in the thread - note all
the fuses get battery power direct from the battery and feed all
the relays together, and all
the relays get switched on (FP and ECU/CEL included) by one wire from the key switch RUN power. It's actually fairly simple when you stare at it long enough, but a bit snarled-looking with no wire colors to help separate the circuits.
So, no power at relays. Is that no power OUT or IN?
If no power IN to the relays, is there power at fuses? If not - work backwards to the battery for where power is lost.
If you have power at fuses and relays, but relays don't switch to give power OUT, then work backwards to the key switch RUN terminal, and if still no power there, continue back to the battery.
If you have both battery and key RUN power to the relays but they don't work, then you're just missing a ground to complete the circuit.
You have battery power, and just need to find where the link is broken from there to your relays in only two circuits. A volt meter or test light should have the answer if a few minutes. Good luck!
This diagram is from RJM Injection Tech sited at oldfuelinjection.com and I hope he doesn't mind me borrowing it for just this example. For props, he has a ton of great info on his site. I re-colored the wires in the relay circuits to make them clearer for this specific issue. The colors do not match the actual wire colors in the car. Be sure each circuit is complete, shown as RED wiring from the battery to fuses, YELLOW from the fuses to relays, BLUE from the key switch RUN terminal, and PINK from the relays to ground: