I got a pretty good deal on a box of 1 7/8" misc bends from Speedway:
Bought these, but they were not needed. I liked using the Speedway bends since it was easier to visualize the angles when rerouting header tubes:
I started on the RH side since it needed the least amount of work. It was the right move because there was a learning curve to cut, clean, and tack weld.
I moved the tube on the lower right upward and toward the rear to get it off the frame and away from the tower:
I also cut one header tube so I could move it closer toward the motor to get it further away from the tower:
Used my jig when cutting and welding to keep the flange straight:
The modified header doesn't look much different than before, but it fits much nicer in the Mustang engine bay. There is now at least 1/2" clearance between it and any obstruction, such as the shock towers and frame:
Feeling confident, I started on the LH side which was much tighter due to the stock steering box. I had to cut tube #7 off just to get the header to slide in place with the head on! Then I determined that #8 wanted to be inside the steering box. We're having fun now . . . . .
Here is the LH header before modifications:
Compare the 2 photos above to the modded header below:
It may not be readily apparent, but I changed the header routing at the collector of 3 tubes. The #5 (firing order) front tube now goes into the collector where #7 used to go. #7 now goes to where #8 went and finally #8 goes to where #5 originally went.
#8 was the tricky one because it was originally located where I needed the Z bar to be. Since none of the tubes were routed behind the Z-bar, I looped the tube slightly upward to clear the steering box, then around the Z-bar, and finally into the header:
The z bar got a little tweaking to clear the header tube:
One issue I found during testing was that the lower fork return spring was going to rub against the tube. To counteract that I added a little dog leg that moved the tube away from the offending area:
I temporarily installed the z-bar, bellhousing, starter, and the transmission to verify all clearances.
The header mods are tacked together using a torch with steel rod. Once I was satisfied with the fit, I took everything down and prepped the headers to be tig welded. 5 total cuts to be tigged on the RH side, 12 on the left: