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post #31 of 124 (permalink) Old 03-31-2014, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

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Originally Posted by Jetfixr320 View Post
Chris,

Read through this site, TwinTorino.com

It could give you some direction if you want to go this far. And use a K frame and shock towers from a Mustang.

Jet
I looked through it. Very interesting. I am surprised by the track width of the torino and mustang/cougar being so similar, yet the engine compartments are so very different.

My main difference is I didn't want to use a k-member at all. Although I have considered picking up one that uses rod end lowers to butcher for the suspension pickup points. That would simplify things some, as long as I could mount it after cutting it up. Hell, at that point I could actually see what it really WOULD take to fit the whole thing. I know it can't be as hard as they made it with the torino, and since I don't need engine mounts, and can easily fab a rack mount crossmember, the only thing that matters for me are the pickup points for the lower control arms.

Anyhow, thank you for the link! It was interesting reading and I actually did learn a bit from it. Good stuff all around

~These are just some of the drawbacks we...as guys who like to go mach 10 with our hair on fire and these little motors screaming at rpms that make other guys cry...have to deal with.~
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post #32 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-02-2014, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

So I tossed my 7qt front sump oil pan on the car with the block still on the factory mounts today...and there was literally less than half an inch clearance to the bolt in factory crossmember. This setup seems to be making its primary task into giving me 'ok...what the hell am I going to do now?' moments at every turn. So I put the oil pan back onto the 347 to check crank/rod to pan clearance in that area, and its well over an inch a half...if not actually 2". I was talking to my Dad at that point about sectioning my pan to gain some lowering clearance, and he looks at me and says

'Why don't you just put a dry sump on it??'.

So I was like '...well, mostly because I don't have $1800 to add to the total cost this things going to run me.'

He kind of looked at me funny, turned around to the parts shelf, pulled off one of the four three stage Aviaid pumps and handed it to me (I'd seen them a million times, and never paid an ounce of attention, lol). Then he opened another cabinet, and grabbed a 3 gallon return tank...and handed that to me also. Next came a moderately sized oil cooler, and after that a box with six new WIX 51222R filters. Then he says 'Pick yourself up a 1.25" gilmer crank and alternator pulley, and a 1.5-12 remote filter mount...fab up a pan...run some hoses, and you've got yourself a dry sump.'

How about them apples?

Sooo...there we go. I haven't really messed with it much this week, other than the oil pan thing. I need to compress the springs tomorrow, pull the heads, and remove the upper control arms and lower shock towers. At that point I'll see just how low I can get the thing without the bell housing or headers getting too close to the ground. If I can get an inch down, and anything back...I'll be very happy. Even just the inch or so down would be good for me. Gotta be able to get the driver's side valve cover off!!

~These are just some of the drawbacks we...as guys who like to go mach 10 with our hair on fire and these little motors screaming at rpms that make other guys cry...have to deal with.~
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post #33 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-03-2014, 04:07 AM
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

You had me going there with the 1/2" motor clearance (which would normally be no problem), until you revealed your intent to slam it. That's going to make header routing even more of an issue with the remains of the shock towers, steering box and the pitman/idler arm. The steering linkage wil probably be in the way too. If you drop it, it but it might require a little rework of the spindle arm height (heat/bend.)

Also wonder how much ground clearance that the headers will have.

Ever thought of making the Cougar a gasser (cheap) or a MII swap with a lowered frame attachment and raised spindles? Those would help solve a lot of the problems. On second thought, don't. That would make life much too easy . . . . .

Dennis

65' Stang Street/Strip. Dart 434W NA, Victor heads, G101A 4 Spd, 4:56 rear gear, on 93 octane pushing 3550lbs. [email protected]

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post #34 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-03-2014, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

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Originally Posted by dennis111 View Post
You had me going there with the 1/2" motor clearance (which would normally be no problem), until you revealed your intent to slam it. That's going to make header routing even more of an issue with the remains of the shock towers, steering box and the pitman/idler arm. The steering linkage wil probably be in the way too. If you drop it, it but it might require a little rework of the spindle arm height (heat/bend.)

Also wonder how much ground clearance that the headers will have.

Ever thought of making the Cougar a gasser (cheap) or a MII swap with a lowered frame attachment and raised spindles? Those would help solve a lot of the problems. On second thought, don't. That would make life much too easy . . . . .
Lol...I wouldn't say 'slam'! How about 'slightly adjust to a more advantageous, less highly elevated position'?

More seriously though...I'm actually trying to get the motor where I had it in the 67 Mustang (same headers with high ports, which are also 3/4" raised)...which is partly a factor of where the T5 sits (trying to get a good shot at the rear end!). I'm aware this might not be possible with these heads. Either way though...who would turn down a free dry sump, lol?

As far as the conflicts you mentioned go...those will only really be viable if I end up somehow managing to keep my upper control arms (not likely!). If not...it's going to Strange 10 position single adjustable fox body coilover struts ($310), SN95 spindles with the PBR aluminum calipers ($300), tubular lower control arms (free circle track parts), adjustable locating struts ($50), and a mustang II/pinto front steer rack ($75). I figure even with unexpected and incidental costs (connecting the steering, brake lines, caster/camber plates, etc), I'll still be well below $1200 for the whole, vastly superior front suspension setup. As far as it working goes...its basically a fatman/rrs/gateway system, only without the inflated price tag they can get since most people haven't been able to figure out what parts they're using in their 'kits'.

I'm going to go out today though and give some serious effort towards getting my headers fit as it sits. If that doesn't work, I'll compress the springs, remove the uppers, then remove the lower part of the shock towers and see what there is to see.

~These are just some of the drawbacks we...as guys who like to go mach 10 with our hair on fire and these little motors screaming at rpms that make other guys cry...have to deal with.~

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post #35 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-03-2014, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

Here's a similarly designed OEM suspension that uses a forward locating strut and a single beam lower control arm. It's a Hyundai Genesis of all things, lol.



Fun.

~These are just some of the drawbacks we...as guys who like to go mach 10 with our hair on fire and these little motors screaming at rpms that make other guys cry...have to deal with.~
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post #36 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-12-2014, 12:59 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

Lots of updates! My fuel tank came in, along with my sump. Soooo...I welded that up. It turned out pretty decent if I do say so myself. The sump (universal) came from a company called SMR on eBay. I asked them if they could put the outlets on the sides of the sump instead of the rear (I hate rear outlets on a Mustang/Cougar...), and upsize them to 3/4" instead of 1/2", and they did both free of charge. Shipping was free, and fast, and it only cost like $35. I was pretty impressed to be honest. I also got my -12 push lok fuel line, Weldon 2025 pump and 2040 regulator, and ordered the majority of my fittings. Still need to pick up 5' or so of -10 line, and 25' or so of -8 for the EFI lines and the return line.

I'm also fully committed to the strut front end now as well...although I won't be using the typical lower control arm like a fox/SN95 car. It turns out, from my measurements and research that the rest of a fox/SN95 front end will fit like it was made for the car. As I mentioned before, I'll be using a factory SN95 (2000 Mustang GT) spindle and brakes, Strange 10 way single adjustable coilover struts with Qa1 14-175 springs, and Maximum Motorsports 4 bolt caster/camber plates. The lower control arm will be located at the factory pickup for a 68 Cougar, and a single arm with a strut locating bar like factory as well. It'll be an adjustable tubular stock car deal instead though, with a fabbed strut mount. The steering setup is a pinto/Mustang II rack...which so far has come with its own host of problems, lol. Read: bumpsteer. Not good when your rack pivot points are 22" wide, and your LCA pick up points are 19".

All in all I'm pleased with how it's going together though...other than how long it's taking. As soon as my spindles and caster/camber plates get here I'll be starting the mocking up in earnest. Should be interesting to say the least, since I have no baseline measurements for ride height, or anything else to go off of. I mean, the car WAS a shell when I got it, lol.

Anyhow, here's some pictures.

1970 Mustang/Cougar 22gal tank from Mustang's Unlimited. Not bad for $124 shipped, with a new pickup/sending unit.


The sump. Much nicer than the foxbody specific one I modified for the 67 Mustang last time.


All fit up for welding.


All welded. You'll notice I had to use flux core, since I was out of gas and don't have the first clue how to tig, lol. All I care about is that it held! I smeared it with JB weld before painting it just in case though, lol.



All finished.


I also pulled the motor mounts completely. Still wasn't enough room to fit the headers, lol.



Then I pulled the steering (and everything else lol). STILL couldn't get the headers to fit. For the record, the steering assembly on these cars weighs 38lbs...and the upper control arms (with saddles), springs, spindles, rotors and calipers weigh another 122lbs (both sides of course).




Some of the parts I have on hand now. Man I like those Strange coilovers, lol. Weight comparison is 12lbs for the steering, and 102lbs for the coilover struts, spindles, rotors, and calipers. I was surprised that the difference wasn't greater...all of these parts feel very light.


Finally got the drivers side shock tower out (still needs ground down clean etc). The parts I removed weighed about 10lbs lol. And look!...I finally got a header on! The motor's still sitting about 3/4" higher than I'd like (about 1/4" below factory or so) though...which is ok, since I still intend to cut the motor mount bracket/support deal that the header's sitting on down at a curved angle.

Anyway...that's that so far. As I mentioned above, the hardest part of this is going to be getting the rack to work and clear my headers. I'll probably have to narrow it, which sucks...and won't help with the header clearance at all. But in the end...header clearance is a pretty distant second to bump steer when decelerating from the kind of trap speed this thing should be capable of...so it is what it is.

~These are just some of the drawbacks we...as guys who like to go mach 10 with our hair on fire and these little motors screaming at rpms that make other guys cry...have to deal with.~
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post #37 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-12-2014, 03:11 AM
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

I like the bungs coming off the side of the sump. The rear mounted stuff always looks like crap to me and frankly scared me away.

Your pretty handy with a flux core welder on that thin sheet metal. I have one and really couldn't lay a bead down like that even with .030 wire.

As far as the engine compartment, you've got a lot of work ahead of you. I know that you are thinking Mustang II rack, but have you seen this thread that talks about Omni/GM racks having an angle that might be desireable? https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/falc...ck-pinion.html

Dennis

65' Stang Street/Strip. Dart 434W NA, Victor heads, G101A 4 Spd, 4:56 rear gear, on 93 octane pushing 3550lbs. [email protected]
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post #38 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-12-2014, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

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Originally Posted by dennis111 View Post
I like the bungs coming off the side of the sump. The rear mounted stuff always looks like crap to me and frankly scared me away.

Your pretty handy with a flux core welder on that thin sheet metal. I have one and really couldn't lay a bead down like that even with .030 wire.

As far as the engine compartment, you've got a lot of work ahead of you. I know that you are thinking Mustang II rack, but have you seen this thread that talks about Omni/GM racks having an angle that might be desireable? https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/falc...ck-pinion.html
Thanks Dennis! On the last tank I sumped, I made my own side exits using a piece of 3/4" mild pipe from Home Depot. I slotted it to allow fuel into it then passed it through two holes I drilled in the sides and welded it up. It was easy enough to adapt from the NPT to -AN after that. I just used 1/2" pipe plugs in the rear bungs:



I later ran a -8 return line to the other side. This time around, I'll actually have two -12 feeds tee into the pump, and I'll braze a -8 return bung into the factory sending unit where the original feed would go.

On the welds, lol...well, thanks! It still leaked though. Flux core wire leaves a lot of porosity in the weld, and if water seeps through, fuel will definitely seep through. Not being able to really get any heat/penetration for fear of blowing it out doesn't help. The method I've found best for welding sheetmetal is to first make sure there's overlap. Then, start the heat on the doubled up portion until you get your puddle, then 'push' the puddle down to the single layer...and back up to the doubled portion. That completes one stitch. At that point you release the feed until the stitch cools enough to let your lens go bright again (usually about 1-2 seconds), at which point you make your next stitch. Done properly you get a nice, smooth rhythm and it goes really quickly. This seems to help a lot with warpage too. I welded that sump in pretty much one continuous bead down a side (stopping every inch or so to tap the next inch of flange down flush with a punch...the heat often separates the two pieces), then switched to the other side, etc. Once it's all done, I use a stiff wire wheel and a small amount of grinding to get any boogers off, then a quick, semi thick smear of JB weld as a seam sealer...let it cure, and then paint it. I'm pretty happy with the method, and I think the only way to do any better really is with a tig.

On that rack...I got super excited for a minute when I saw the link...then I quickly realized once I started reading that it's a rear steer rack lol. I need a front steer deal unfortunately. Ahh well though...I'll either find something else that works, or shorten this M2 unit I have already. If I find something else, at least I can resell the M2 unit quickly...the older street rod crown around here snap them up off of Craigslist as soon as they're posted.

~These are just some of the drawbacks we...as guys who like to go mach 10 with our hair on fire and these little motors screaming at rpms that make other guys cry...have to deal with.~
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post #39 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-14-2014, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

So, I cut out the passenger side shock tower today. Once that was done I went ahead and clearanced the lower control arm mounts with a nice radius, which will hopefully clear the steering shaft whenever I do what I'm going to do with the rack. I then picked the block back up and slipped it onto the scattershield, put the top end back on and managed to get BOTH headers bolted up to the heads. The problem is that in order to do it, and keep the motor centered...I had to lift it all back up to the factory height, which unfortunately is unacceptable. I can say this much, messing with these headers now that I have a reference for the factory block location (I didn't in the 67), makes me realize just how freakin much I had to lift, and move the motor forward in order to get it installed with the high ports in the Mustang. Kinda pisses me off to pay $700 initially, then $70 in shipping twice for headers that never did fit properly. I mean, I can't complain in this build...they weren't made for these heads (oddly enough they actually fit BETTER now though...the motor was 1/2" higher than this to clear in the 67), but like I said, it makes me realize how bad it was last time. For the money I spent on them, I could have just had my local guy fabricate a new set that fit perfectly.

Anyhow, on to some pictures:




Here's the clearanced LCA mounts. Hopefully the radius allows everything I need to clear. I'm getting tired of picking that block up from the ground inside the engine compartment over and over lol...it'd be nice to have this be the last time as far as fitment is concerned =p.


Doesn't this fit beautifully? Engine's all centered up...there's TONS of room to drop it (I could probably go three full inches if I wanted here, lol), headers are tucked nicely. It's a beautiful thing...


And...my problem side. At factory height, #4 is 1/16" off the frame rail, and #3 is about the same distance from the inner apron. The motor HAS to drop an inch, period. Right now it's sitting with almost 7 of slope as compared to the frame rail, and frankly...looks retarded doing it. Tomorrow I'm going to take ONE more look at the transmission and see if I can gain 1/2" on it. If that works, I may end up only dropping the motor 1/2 to level things out. Since I'll have to clearance the frame rail to do it...I'm trying to be conservative here.


Hey...at least the damn thing's IN right?


On a much, much happier note...I installed my SN95 spindles onto the 1968 factory LCA's today. I basically just tightened the nut down till they wouldn't move (the 68 ball joint is a good bit smaller than the SN95 unit) so I could see if this whole deal was even going to be possible. Things lined up pretty well. I think getting the right ball joint in there will make a large difference. I'd found some measurements of a 67 Cougar's ride height on Mustang Steve's Ride Height page (scroll to the bottom), and figured that even though it appears close to stock, it'll be a good place to start. So I set the center of hub at 13" from the wheel lip (which leaves the coilover adjusters right in the middle of the threads with 10" to the factory spring cup...which just happens to be my spring's compressed height lol)...and began looking for possible issues.


The strut shaft comes right up through the factory opening like it was made for it (it's resting in this picture, when straightened it's actually pretty well centered). The Maximum Motorsports 4 bolt caster/camber plates I ordered from Brother's Performance (great price btw) allow over an inch of both camber adjustment, and caster adjustment. When combined with the adjustable length lower control arm (should get somewhere between 1/2" and 1" adjustment there too), and adjustable strut rods...I think it should be enough.


This picture isn't a very good indicator, but when the strut shaft is located in the center of the factory shock opening...the hub is basically vertical. I'm crossing my fingers (and toes, legs, arms, and every other bodily appendage I have a pair of), but this looks like a pretty simple bolt on deal.

So, there's that. Funny that the actual installation of the front suspension seems like it's going to go pretty damn easily. I'm probably going to have to mount the M2 rack relatively low so the tie rods clear the strut rod...but that's nothing that fabbing up a bumpsteer correction deal won't fix. When I narrow the pinto rack, I'm going to see about narrowing it enough to thread the shafts for a female clevis end, so I can run adjustable one piece tie rods with rod ends. Anything that minimizes bind is to the good...and this things going to vibrate like a cheap hotel bed anyway, so I'm not exactly worried about that aspect much, lol.

Hopefully, there will be more pictures to come tomorrow.

~These are just some of the drawbacks we...as guys who like to go mach 10 with our hair on fire and these little motors screaming at rpms that make other guys cry...have to deal with.~
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post #40 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-15-2014, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

Got a BUNCH done today!




Drilled out the factory spring seat. Three spot welds to drill, and a punch to remove the seat. Came out pretty easily actually.


This is the lower support on the Maximum Motorsports caster camber plates. It's made to sit just like this, only under the shock tower.


I had to drill two holes, and wallow out a third (I used a 3/8" round file chucked up in my cordless drill to make adjustments to the holes I drilled, and to open up the slot more for the third bolt). I made sure the holes left a bit of interference (I don't want that plate dropping, ever)...then drew it up with the supplied bolts and washers until it was flush with the underside of the shock tower (wait...should I be calling it a 'strut tower' now, lol?).


This shows a bit better where I drilled the holes, and how the plate sits nice and snug on its own. If you're doing this, make sure you don't make the holes too close to each other. Yes...the plate may still draw up, but the tops can spread out, and then you can't get the middle plate on.



Speaking of the middle plate...here's mine. Slips right down on the studs. Don't forget to use the 3/8" spacers they provide. Without them, the lower bolts on the middle plate (that mount the top plate) get caught on the hole in the shock tower...and you won't be able to adjust it.



And there's the top plate. Also, you can see how nicely the support plate fits inside the factory shock tower. Kinda surprising.




And there it is with the strut installed. Again...fits like factory. Plenty of hood clearance too! Also, since you can see the strut setup in there...I'd like to clarify that those springs are stupid stiff (like 450lb/in), and 10" uncompressed. They're in there for mock up, since the springs I'm going to be using are going to be about 9-10" compressed. These measured out at 9.75" with the hub at my chosen ride height. Perfect for mocking things up.


If a person REALLY wanted to, they could probably use the stock control arm. Just figure out a way to mod the LCA for a bolt in ball joint that had the right shank for the SN95 spindles. It all fits in there really clean.


Here you can see the rough alignment with it all just dropped in. It needs a bit more positive camber to be more vertical...I can adjust that in with the adjustable LCA's, and the caster camber plates. Also keep in mind that the picture is crooked, adding to the illusion of positive camber. Base the hub orientation off the tape measure for a better idea of what's what.



Ride height at 13.5".




With a wheel on...26" tire. Keep in mind there's no rotor, which will space things out minutely. This is pretty much where the factory spindle placed the wheel too (it might be a BIT more tucked...if I have to run a wheel spacer to make it look right, I will...we'll see when the time comes).

Soooo, I feel like I got a bit accomplished today. I'm still having trouble believing how easily this front end has gone together in a 46yr old car. I keep waiting for the big 'Oh ****!!' moment when I find something that's gonna make the entire thing not work lol...but so far...it's been gravy!

I'm also really looking forward to the day I have the car pretty much complete, and put the thing on scales to check out the corner weights lol.

~These are just some of the drawbacks we...as guys who like to go mach 10 with our hair on fire and these little motors screaming at rpms that make other guys cry...have to deal with.~
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post #41 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-15-2014, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

Oh, I almost forgot...


Sooooo...this is my next major issue. That bar running across is the strut rod. It's mandatory lol. The steering arm is obviously going to need a bumpsteer kit to clear the frame....but it's going to cause the rack to mount very low...not to mention the next problem...


...which is that when you turn the wheel left, the steering arm raises. When you turn it right, it drops. This is a function of the camber setting, I think. Regardless though...it's raising some concern as to clearing the frame, and clearing that strut rod.

Guess I'm going to just have to get in there, hands on with the rack...and see if there's anywhere that lines up.

~These are just some of the drawbacks we...as guys who like to go mach 10 with our hair on fire and these little motors screaming at rpms that make other guys cry...have to deal with.~
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post #42 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 04:17 AM
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

It looks like you might have finally met your match. Wonder how much positive caster you now have? Would be a lot as you have it mocked up in the photo.

Interestingly, it looks like if you were doing rear steer and had the spindles swapped left to right it would appear to work. Makes me wonder (in my case) about adding coil overs and loosing the factory upper control arm/spindle/coil. Then notch the shock towers for the added header clearance, which is my car's current weakness. Reuse the factory steering parts. Would love to find an easy way to throw some big high ports on mine.

Dennis

65' Stang Street/Strip. Dart 434W NA, Victor heads, G101A 4 Spd, 4:56 rear gear, on 93 octane pushing 3550lbs. [email protected]

Last edited by dennis111; 04-16-2014 at 04:19 AM.
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post #43 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

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Originally Posted by dennis111 View Post
It looks like you might have finally met your match. Wonder how much positive caster you now have? Would be a lot as you have it mocked up in the photo.

Interestingly, it looks like if you were doing rear steer and had the spindles swapped left to right it would appear to work. Makes me wonder (in my case) about adding coil overs and loosing the factory upper control arm/spindle/coil. Then notch the shock towers for the added header clearance, which is my car's current weakness. Reuse the factory steering parts. Would love to find an easy way to throw some big high ports on mine.
I'm not sure on the caster thing...but I'm betting it's pretty close to factory to be honest. The strut is mostly sitting right where it's pointed by the spindle...and the steering arm is pretty much level as it should be. I need to take a look at a factory SN95 if I can find one, to see how much travel that arm has vertically through its range of motion on the car it was designed for. Caster is really the one setting I don't have a ton of adjustment for...at least not to reduce it. I've got about 3/4" of positive adjustment left.

On swapping the spindles...there's two problems with that. First...it would screw the ackerman up...badly. Second, the strut brackets are angled side to side. If you swapped them, it would point the strut forward, instead of backward. I don't think this solution is possible.

Now...worst case, I do have another solution. It involves shortening the lower control arms to intersect the frame, and adding a rear facing strut bar that will also mount on the frame. This would basically turn the LCA into a rear biased triangular unit (its actually a forward biased triangle from the factory with the strut rod). Here's a picture on my friend's 67 Cougar to illustrate what I mean:





His LCA mounts are installed on the frame above the bottom of the rail. Mine would be below, and as near to the inside of the frame rail as I could mount them, to maintain the right suspension geometry with my spindles (his are Strange light duty spindles...its a track only car). This would also allow the Mustang II rack to be used pretty much unaltered as far as the pivot points go. Still...this is a last ditch fix, since I'd prefer to keep this as bolt on as possible.

I'm going to go outside later today and rough mount the rack (going to take some creativity there!) to see how badly they intersect at various LCA/rack positions, with various amounts of turn etc. Ill let you know how it goes...just keep your fingers crossed for me that there's a sweet spot, lol!

~These are just some of the drawbacks we...as guys who like to go mach 10 with our hair on fire and these little motors screaming at rpms that make other guys cry...have to deal with.~
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post #44 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 12:17 PM
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

Chris, your a machine man. You made a SBF look like a BBF!
Awesome work, great fabrication.

Wish i had thought of the sump solution before I put mine on.


Project 521 Gydyup - 67 Mustang Coup
521 BBF-Solid Roller -Kaase P51 Heads-Victor-AED Dominator - Jerico DR4, Long Inline Shifter.
Shortened & Mini Tubbed. Strange Nodular 9, Spooled 4:56, Mark Williams Axles.
"old School - WWDD"
Gydyup is offline  
post #45 of 124 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Location: Glendale, AZ
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Re: 68 Cougar XR-7 Build

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Originally Posted by Gydyup View Post
Chris, your a machine man. You made a SBF look like a BBF!
Awesome work, great fabrication.

Wish i had thought of the sump solution before I put mine on.
Lol, thanks brother! Not only a small block though...the smallest of the small blocks!

=p

On the sump thing...did you mean for the gas tank? I did a similar thing to the last car as well...I think it's documented here.

Man, I've seriously been wracking my brain on this steering thing. Can't wait to get out there this afternoon and at least see what things look like. My worst case solution seems like the easiest one so far...but that could all change once I'm out there taking a look.

~These are just some of the drawbacks we...as guys who like to go mach 10 with our hair on fire and these little motors screaming at rpms that make other guys cry...have to deal with.~
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