Magnus 1965 Fairlane - Page 2 - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum
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post #16 of 57 (permalink) Old 03-20-2016, 12:34 PM
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Nice work Magnus, I went to many shows up here last summer, I think I saw one 65 Fairlane!
Have you had a chance to test out your p.steering? Wondering what you think of the Unisteer set up.
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post #17 of 57 (permalink) Old 03-20-2016, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

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Originally Posted by royster View Post
Nice work Magnus, I went to many shows up here last summer, I think I saw one 65 Fairlane!
Have you had a chance to test out your p.steering? Wondering what you think of the Unisteer set up.
Thanks man! Yeah not many of them around. In someways its really cool driving something different, Like when every where you go people stop & stare. Sometimes its a P.I.T.A. like when trying to find parts and folks just stare at you like you grew a second head.

I haven't tried it yet. Won't be testing out the steering outside of pumping the air out & running it on & off the trailer until after I get it all assembled then in & out of the alignment shop. It should be really different between new brakes, new steering, new suspension, stiffer chassis and the addition of sound deadening. Right now I can't start it as I've shaved off the old battery tray & haven't run the wires or installed the battery box yet.

In other news I ran into an issue running brake lines today & have decided I am going a different route with that so I lost pretty much a whole day farting around with that. I did get my other rear brake on & I also changed out the thermostat that was leaking so it's not a total loss. Also at least now I have a plan with my brake lines & know for sure where they are going. May not get anything done next week with Easter unless I can cram it into Saturday.
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post #18 of 57 (permalink) Old 04-21-2016, 06:58 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Been a month since I posted but I’ve been busy as you’ll see. I found out I’m rubbish with flaring lines & apparently I don’t know anyone else who is any good at it. So I bought a bunch of premade lines and bent them up and ran them. Using bailing wire as a pattern helped me by the right amount lengths and I only had to run 2 junctions.





I used stainless clamps and self tapping screws. Fuel line is standard 3/8 steel & brake lines are the AutoZone steel ones with their PVF-coating. They bent pretty easily.





Here you can see the spaghetti going from the master cylinder to the combination valve and then back out of it.





I also roughed in my trunk mount battery shown here with the trunk mat lifted up. It’s behind the right rear wheel between the filler board and where the trunk drops down. The bolts straddle the rear sub-frame. The battery box is from summit and comes from their house brand remote mount battery kit. Looks like a Moroso box to me. The cable is 1ga. The battery is a Super Start Platinum – Battery size 34/78 775cca from O’Reilly. Its an AGM battery so it should keep any off gassing to a minimum. I still am going to run a vent though through the floor. Still not sure where that is going though. I will also need to run another positive 4ga cable out of the box also for my Amp.





The battery is grounded to the floor with a bolt I welded in near the box as shown above. The positive cable then goes forward towards the rear seat. Between the battery and the seat is a 250amp ANL fuse.





After it exits there it goes under the back seat & then though the existing floor gasket under the rear seat.





It then ties into the sub-frame connector and is attached with some adel clamps.





After that it runs up the inside of the firewall and over the shock tower. It has a short loop in before going to the solenoid in case I need some play. I guess I can always shorten it later if I want to but I would rather have too much than not enough. The ground is 2'6" long and the positive is 18'6".





As you can see from the above picture I also have put my factory bracing in, reinstalled the hood, and wired in my new gauges. I also added a second charging wire from the alternator to the solenoid in 8ga. That should handle the full output of my 75amp alternator with no restriction. What you can’t see is I also added a 4 gauge ground from the motor to the body on the other side of the engine. This is in addition to the existing ground strap.
I have also been working on sound deadening. Right now I am using the Peel & Seal from Lowes in all the areas hidden by upholstery, carpet or panels. I have some Noico Black 80 Mil for the areas that will be visible since it has a black finish.





The inside of the side panels & door panels was the hardest. I went all the way up. Not shown I also replaced all the door locks and lubed the rollers & lock mechanism.





Starting to work on the front.





I also painted my kick-panels to match the dash. These are from Rhino Fabrication. They accept a 6.5” speaker. I am installing 600 watts of amp in the trunk. I will have 2 6.5’s in the front and 2 6x9’s in the deck lid. Also shown is the new gas & brake pedals. If your replacing the carpet & the brakes and installing new gas pedal gaskets might as well replace those worn out pedals also.





Finally here is the car how it sits in my garage. It’s filthy and on ramps. Hope to start her up this weekend burp the air out of the rack & pinion and P.O. the neighbors up with my straight pipes. Hope to be back on the road in the next month. We’ll see.



Last edited by Magnus1965; 04-21-2016 at 07:05 PM.
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post #19 of 57 (permalink) Old 04-26-2016, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Here is some more on sound deadening & what I got done this weekend. I applied the Noico Black to the trunk and then installed my trunk mat from ACC and got everything but my sound system mounted permanently in the back.


Prepping for surgery on my package tray.




Cut outs made for 6x9 speakers. Went from 1 6x9 speaker hole in the back and one obsolete speaker hole in the front to 2 6.5" in the front and 2 6x9's in the back. I first placed my grills up there to figure out what I wanted. I marked the cut with a straight edge and a silver sharpie. I cut it out with a Dremel tool using a reinforced cut off wheel. After that I made a pattern with card stock by pressing it down into the hole and cutting where it creased. I then transferred my pattern to the 1/4" birch plywood. I cut the plywood to fit the hole. Next I cut the 6x9 hole in the plywood after figuring the exact placement I wanted. For the hole template I used a 6x9 template I found on line. I then fit the speaker to the hole and it was tight since the basket was a little larger than the one in the template. I used a sanding drum on my Dremel to slightly enlarge it where needed. I then glued in the plywood using construction adhesive.




Rolling the black Sound Deadener in the trunk. I cut & laid it down & my daughter rolled it in (or at least helped).




Tail of trunk insulated. The Noico installed a little different than the Lowe's Peel and Seal. The Lowe's stuff has a little less rubber and more foil. The Lowe's is more durable to contact & did not tear so easily and was harder to cut. It also didn't cut me like the Noico did a couple times. Both are good products with the Noico slightly more expensive. I used this because I did not want the inside of my trunk looking like a solar oven. Anywhere it's not visible though I went with the Lowe's Peel & Seal. I got 100% coverage in the trunk area except for the panel between the trunk lid & window in which I got maybe 50-75% coverage & I did not do the trunk lid because I ran out. I will perhaps get another box in the future and do the insets in the trunk lid between braces. My little girl wanted to help me with the car so she got a roller & went to work rolling in the floor after I laid it down. She did a great job for a 7 year old and I only had to fix a couple spots for her.




Trunk Insulated.




Testing out the sound system before installation with my phone and a jumper wire just to make sure its working right. It is a Rockford Fosgate Prime 600 Watt Class D 4 channel Amplifier pushing 2 Kicker KSC 6.5 inch Coaxial 2-Way Speakers for the front and 2 Kicker KSC 6x9 inch Coaxial Speakers for the rear. I will be running 14ga AWG OFC wire between them. For the input I will using Dual Twist Signal Cable from Rockford Fosgate. My power & ground cables are 4ga AWG OFC wire.




I also dropped the car down, started her up for the 1st time on months, topped off the ATF, burped the power steering, fixed the choke, and checked to make sure the tires didn't rub. That 1.5" drop in the front looks a whole lot lower especially since the back end was raised up to stock. It used to be the back end was lower and with the front sagging it looked less low because the back sagged so much. I have a ton of tire room in the back row because its not all crooked from worn bushings and sagging from worn springs. I wouldn't be surprised with the right offset wheel if I could fit 255 or maybe even 275 tires back there.


Rear 3/4




Front 3/4




Front



Yes it looks lower on the left side than the right. A couple reasons for that. #1 the bumper needs adjustment. #2 there is NO alignment on the car so the right tire (in the left on the picture) is way cambered out and the drivers tire is straight up & down. Those things will be fixed later. Also the car will likely settle some as the interior & sound deadening are added and as the springs set. I'll take some more pictures later on.

Last edited by Magnus1965; 04-26-2016 at 10:06 AM.
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post #20 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-16-2016, 08:02 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Since my last post I built a console for my Fairlane. I did it the same way they do all speaker boxers. This is the 1st time I have done this so we watched a couple videos online. I first made a frame. I used steel instead of MDF though. I made the bottom first since I knew how much space I had to work with.



I then added a wood cutout out for the top 1/4 birch worked well for me as it will look good when finished and I planned on having a wood outside on it. When I had the length for the base & I knew the angle I wanted on the front & back It determined the length for the top.



Masking and making the 1st form I used my previously made top since precut all my holes in the wood before fiber-glassing since it would be a good guide later. Cardboard was considered for the inside but was too flimsy to take the stretched fabric. . The cardboard was scrapped for wood which didnít deform. I also checked for interference then. I sat the seats back in the car & made sure it would all line up. After that the seats were removed again & I finished up the steel frame to work with my cutouts and brace where I didn't have them. Next we messed around with the fleece. The 1st one was a Dora the explorer blanket my daughter has multiple of. It got cut too small and trashed. We found a red blanket we got from a blood drive or something and used that. The second one we had a better idea of how much it stretched.



We still had difficulty figuring out what to attach the fleece to on the bottom and then it came to me while sleeping. We rolled some more sound deadener on the floor and pinned it to the sound deadener. Actually my wife did the stretching & pinning as she sews and has a better feel for fabric than I do.



Once pinned down we could then paint on the resin. As we painted the resin caused it to sag and wrinkle it was stretched and repined along the way. We painted on as deep as it would go. We used one small can of resin mixed up 1/4 at a time. This isn't perfect & there were a couple wrinkles at the base still.



After it dried we removed it and found the resin went 1/2 way though. It had shape but was very flimsy. We took it out of the car flipped it over & painted the inside with resin. This soaked the fleece all the way down. It used up 1/2 of the second small can of resin. Small can is 28.8oz. We stuck it back in the car. Pushed it into place and blocked up the sides with bricks to keep in in place until it dried.



When the inside coat dried it was solid. It could be stronger though so we laid fiberglass cloth down and mixed up the rest of the second can in 2 batches and painted it on. In hindsight it would have been best to cut the cloth into strips and lay it in in strips. I had to cut way some in the corners where I interfered with my frame and it had some air bubbles in it which don't really help strength at the bubbles. It did help though now is much stiffer.



After the mat dried I did my cutting to shape. I used a Dremel, a drill, a sharpie, and a belt sander for this. The drill was used to drill holes along the edge of the wood on the inside. This helped me get started with the Dremel and cutoff wheel & made the hole space weaker and easier to cut. I then test fit for interference again. It bound in a few areas on the frame from the buildup of the new glass but that was it. I then ground away the interference and refit it. We refit it and cut away as close to the pinned area as possible. Then we put the old carpet part of the way in and fit it again and cut away a little. A sharpie drew on it easily. We sneaked up on the cuts because Dremel wheels are cheap and you canít put it back on. Well not easily. After it was a cut down I smoothed out the straightness of my cuts with a belt sander with my wife running the sander upside down on a sawhorse and me lightly gliding the edge over the belt. This took all the jaggedness out of my cuts.



A little test fit to make sure its coming the right way.



Then came many many layers of fiberglass reinforced filler. It was laid down & then sanded out. This was to build it up to take out any wrinkles, smooth lines, and contour.



After the fiberglass reinforced filler came the finishing putty to get all the details right and fix any pits and scratches.



All done and ready for primer. I didnít photo this part but I used a filler primer. I primed, sanded away imperfections and repeated.



Test fitting again before staining.



I stained the wood to match the steering wheel color. To match my grant steering wheel I used a mixture of Minwax dark walnut & Minwax gunstock. I mixed until the color was right & then applied. After applying I topped with several coats of polyurethane.



Beats the heck out of the black plastic box the B&M StarShifter shifter is made with. Plus now I have cupholders. I also have places for my bluetooth receiver & garage door opener.



Not too bad considering I've never done this kind of thing before. I learned alot of lessons and I learned it's a ton of work. If I ever do another one I would do a few things different to make it easier but I am happy with the results. Next I need to install the carpet & I will show that later on.

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post #21 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-16-2016, 03:30 PM
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Great job on the console!
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post #22 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-16-2016, 06:12 PM
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Awesome job on the console, love the cup holders!
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post #23 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-17-2016, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Thanks! I appreciate the comments!

In case anyone in the future wants to replicate this I used the following stuff plus two weeks of nights and weekends:

From Home Depot : 1/4" birch ply. Bondo brand fiberglass resin & mat. 2" long stainless pan head screws with stainless washers. I got all that at home depot. The screws fit the shifter pre-drilled mounts & are 10-24. I used stainless nuts for the boots & drilled & tapped the other mounting holes. The frame is made up of 1/2 square steel tubing. I picked it up when working on my seat rails since I needed to raise the inside seat rails 1/2" and had a bunch left over. The cross straps are 5/8 wide by 1/8 thick steel bar. They bent easily enough in the vise with a hammer to make fairly crisp corners. I cut those to length when I welded it to base which I did in the car to get it the right height. Home depot is fairly close to my wife's job so it was convenient for that stuff.

Autozone: Blue Magic/QuikSteel epoxy putty. Since I ran out of resin and had just enough for the glass I didnít have any for glueing on the nuts for the shifter boot. This worked great. If I had more resin though I probably would have just used that. I also picked up a few electrical connectors there for the Bluetooth controller.

Who knows where: The blanket was just a generic fleece blanket. You need to use a fleece blanket, t-shirt cotton is too thin & not enough material for the resin to attach to. The shifter came in the car but honestly it's the one I would have choose anyway. I really like B&M shifters & have had them in previous cars. B&M StarShifters 80675 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing Other than using longer bolts the only other mod to the shifter was using a socket screw in place of the shorter indicator the shifter comes with. I painted it red and screwed it into place it was a 6-32 and 1.5" long. I picked it up from the local hardware store. It's not seen in these photos since I put it in last night but as soon as I finish the carpet install I'll show in in the pics I post.

Amazon: The cup holders are marine stainless cup holders. I considered aluminum but the reviews said they were pretty flimsy so I got the stainless instead. Amazon.com : Amarine-made Stainless Steel Cup Drink Holder with Drain Marine Boat Rv Camper : Boating Deck Hardware : Sports & Outdoors I also considered lighted ones but decided it really wouldn't fit the look & feel I was going for with this car and I might end up with some uncomfortable glare at night. Also purchased from Amazon was my filler Everglass Short Strand Fiber Reinforced Filler Amazon.com: Fibreglass Evercoat 632 Everglass Short Strand Fiber Reinforced Filler - Quart: Automotive and Evercoat 400 Polyester Glazing Putty Amazon.com: Fibreglass Evercoat 400 Polyester Glazing Putty - 36 oz. Can: Automotive. Both have extremely short working times as they harden quickly. Upside not much waiting around between coats. Downside you have to mix up smaller batches so it doesn't harden before its applied.

Sonic Electronix: For my Bluetooth Audio controller/receiver I used the JL Audio MBT-CRX. This allows me to power up my amp separate of another switch. It also allows me to control the volume & switch tracks as well as pause the music coming from my phone. It's small, unobtrusive, at hands reach, easy to use, and keeps my phone out of my hands while I drive for music selection. Since my phone has my entire music collection & can stream from online radio services it beats the heck out of a traditional radio unit. I also don't have to cut up my dash, or hide it in the glove box. My stock unit is in place but nonfunctional. The JBL is also a marine unit so if it gets splashed with a drink it will live. JL Audio MBT-CRX (mbtcrx) Universal Marine Bluetooth Audio.

I'm getting close to being done for this season & ready to drive the car. I just need to do a few more small things first. I need to make a date with the alignment shop soon & then order my weatherstripping for the glass shop to install. I try to do most things myself but I'll leave the fragile glass to the pro's and the guys with expensive computerized equipment to do the alignments.
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post #24 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-23-2016, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Well I've made quite a bit of progress since my last post.

Mocking up the next part of the project the Monte-Carlo or strut tower brace bar. No one makes these for Fairlanes only Falcons & Mustangs. At least not in a style I like, so I'm making my own. Mock up done in Rattan since it’s easy to cut.




Just clears the HEI on my 302







Bracket made from 14ga mild steel. Don't ask me the grade it's scrap from a generator housing.




Need a straight level surface to get my angle readings.




The readings come to an even 70į or the inverse of that is 110į.



Transferring the reading to my tubing. The tubing is welded tubing 1.25"O.D. with a .120 wall thickness. I purchased it online from here: Amazon.com: Unpolished (Mill) 1008-1010 Steel Round Tube, 1.250" Outer Diameter, 0.120" Wall Thickness, 1.010" Inner Diameter, 4' Length: Industrial & Scientific




I used a cut off wheel to cut the tubing which isn't the most accurate tool in the world but it works good if you sneak up on your cuts and you plan to grind to fit like I do.




My first test fit. We are getting there.




Arkansas safety shoes. Hot sparks & Crocs suck but it's hot in the south. Don't be a dumbass and wear these when grinding and welding like I do.




Second cut made and sitting in place. It's a little wide but that was done on purpose so I can sneak up on the fit with a flap disk. It's a whole lot easier to take it off than put it on & it's easier to weld with a tight fit.



A tight fit makes for better welds. Sorry about the glare.




The method I used to determine the spacing after I got it ground down to fit. I used a 3/16 drill bit between a socket to determine the fit. That way I can get the socket in & out to bolt it down. Notice the beveled end of the tube. This is to get full penetration.




After I did that I realized I needed to cover everything from splatter so in went the blankets & cardboard as shown in the 2nd picture. I don't have a welding blanket but this thing worked fine and I didn't even have a fire. A Magnet was used to hold the bar in place & I did have to relocate the bar after putting the blanket down.




Fully covered




My ugly tack welds. Keep in mind I'm using a flux core & I am not a pro welder. It will look good in the end though.




Back to bench for the rest of the welding. I welded it all the way around with full penetration though both materials. Since my welds look like crap I built them up so they could be ground down. I'd probably be a better welder if I used shielding gas & if I had more practice but this works.




After grinding and painting. It's back in the car and ready to go. Painted it with Rustoloeum Rust-Oleum 248914 Automotive 15-Ounce Truck Bed Coating Spray, Black - Spray Paints - Amazon.com top coated with Rustolum gloss black paint. Rust-Oleum 7779830 Stops Rust Spray Paint, 12-Ounce, Gloss Black - Spray Paints - Amazon.com







I smoothed everything down to a nice blending of the tube & the bracket.




I can't lay a row of dimes to save my life but I think I'm decent with a grinder.



Coming soon: More interior & trunk.

Last edited by Magnus1965; 05-24-2016 at 05:42 AM.
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post #25 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 10:36 AM
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Just got done reading your thread, very impressed with all of your mods and upgrades! Especially that center console, it looks awesome! I wanted to ask you about your 1 ĹĒ drop springs. What tire size are you currently running upfront with it? Do you happen to have a pic of the tire/fender gap that you could post?

Keep up the posts, so stoked to read and see all of your work.... especially since it's a 65! Have you found any other 65 builds online?

Cheers -
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post #26 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Thanks man!

Sorry I don't have any pictures of the wheel clearance now. I have some pictures I posted earlier with it on the ground but I din't take any close ups. The tires clear but they are tucked in there. I have installed all the interior and it is at the shop now to see about getting an alignment. I'll post pictures of the interior later.

It drove pretty good over to the shop but the steering felt a little notchy & it it seemed to wander a bit. The car rode great though and the brakes were spot on. Considering it had no alignment on it the wandering was no surprise. I got a call a little bit ago & apparently the universal joint on the intermediate shaft is hitting the mounting bolt on the rack (the notchy feeling) and the rack ends are higher then the center which is causing bump steer (the wandering effect). I went out & looked at it and I could see the issue on the lift that I could not see at home. I had the option of them working on it in their down time and them getting it done in a couple weeks or me doing it at home. Since I'm working on ramps and couldn't even see the problem until it was on a lift (its fine with no weight on the wheels like when on stands) I elected to let them do it. When I spaced the steering column shaft (as shown earlier) Marc mentioned the intermediate shaft may need to be shortened. Well it does and I didn't do it because it looked fine on the stands. That and the rack will need rotated to correct the droop and the binding in the universal joint that is also contributing to the notchy feeling. Like I said I could do all this. And I might be able to even do it within 2 weeks but then I would just have to drive it back out there with no alignment & hope I got it all right this time. This way there is no guessing. Sometimes working out of a 2 car garage sucks. The power steering is nice & the car was WAY easier to turn but the installation has got to have been one of the biggest P.I.A. of the whole build. So much for a "drop in, bolt on" kit.

I can tell you I am running 215/60R15 Kelly Charger GT tires on American Racing Outlaw I wheels. The wheels are 15x7 with 3.76" of backspace. The tires are 25" tall and 9" wide on those wheels. The tires clear lock to lock just fine on the ground and did not rub the 9 miles to the alignment shop. They tuck into the front fenders and to do the alignment they will have to measure off the wheels and not off the tires since the machine wont fit on the tires with more backspace you'd be better off. Before all of this my brakes, suspension, & steering severely limited performance on the car. I think now the tires may be the limiting effect after the alignment & steering fix. I'll test it out once I get back to be sure but usually you can get a whole lot more out of a car on max performance summer tires than on all season performance tires. If I do that I'll keep the diameter the same and go with a 17" wheel so I have a wider tire choice. I'd probably do more offset in the front so I clear & go with more off set in the back so I can go way wider. When I get the car back I'll try to remember to get close ups of the front tires.

The 65's are pretty cool I agree. Nothing else looks like them. The 62's & 64's are mostly the same car though under the exterior sheet metal so check out the builds in this forum on those cars as well. Here is a link to another cool 65: https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/maki...ni-bolt-6.html I look forward to seeing a build thread on your car!
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post #27 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 12:10 PM
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

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Originally Posted by Magnus1965 View Post
Thanks man!

Sorry I don't have any pictures of the wheel clearance now. I have some pictures I posted earlier with it on the ground but I din't take any close ups. The tires clear but they are tucked in there. I have installed all the interior and it is at the shop now to see about getting an alignment. I'll post pictures of the interior later.

That's exactly the look I'm going for on the front end, tires tucked. Look forward to seeing pics once your car is back from the shop.

It drove pretty good over to the shop but the steering felt a little notchy & it it seemed to wander a bit. The car rode great though and the brakes were spot on. Considering it had no alignment on it the wandering was no surprise. I got a call a little bit ago & apparently the universal joint on the intermediate shaft is hitting the mounting bolt on the rack (the notchy feeling) and the rack ends are higher then the center which is causing bump steer (the wandering effect). I went out & looked at it and I could see the issue on the lift that I could not see at home. I had the option of them working on it in their down time and them getting it done in a couple weeks or me doing it at home. Since I'm working on ramps and couldn't even see the problem until it was on a lift (its fine with no weight on the wheels like when on stands) I elected to let them do it. When I spaced the steering column shaft (as shown earlier) Marc mentioned the intermediate shaft may need to be shortened. Well it does and I didn't do it because it looked fine on the stands. That and the rack will need rotated to correct the droop and the binding in the universal joint that is also contributing to the notchy feeling. Like I said I could do all this. And I might be able to even do it within 2 weeks but then I would just have to drive it back out there with no alignment & hope I got it all right this time. This way there is no guessing. Sometimes working out of a 2 car garage sucks. The power steering is nice & the car was WAY easier to turn but the installation has got to have been one of the biggest P.I.A. of the whole build. So much for a "drop in, bolt on" kit.

Well, it will for sure be worth the P.I.A once you pick her up and she's all dialed in.

I can tell you I am running 215/60R15 Kelly Charger GT tires on American Racing Outlaw I wheels. The wheels are 15x7 with 3.76" of backspace. The tires are 25" tall and 9" wide on those wheels. The tires clear lock to lock just fine on the ground and did not rub the 9 miles to the alignment shop. They tuck into the front fenders and to do the alignment they will have to measure off the wheels and not off the tires since the machine wont fit on the tires with more backspace you'd be better off. Before all of this my brakes, suspension, & steering severely limited performance on the car. I think now the tires may be the limiting effect after the alignment & steering fix. I'll test it out once I get back to be sure but usually you can get a whole lot more out of a car on max performance summer tires than on all season performance tires. If I do that I'll keep the diameter the same and go with a 17" wheel so I have a wider tire choice. I'd probably do more offset in the front so I clear & go with more off set in the back so I can go way wider. When I get the car back I'll try to remember to get close ups of the front tires.

The 65's are pretty cool I agree. Nothing else looks like them. The 62's & 64's are mostly the same car though under the exterior sheet metal so check out the builds in this forum on those cars as well. Here is a link to another cool 65: https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/maki...ni-bolt-6.html I look forward to seeing a build thread on your car!

Thanks for the link, looks like he is building a beast!!

My skills are no where near your skills are.... but I will for sure post the mild mods and upgrades as I make progress.
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post #28 of 57 (permalink) Old 05-31-2016, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Still waiting on getting the rack straightened out but here are the pics of the inside.

One of the many thinks I had to fix right was the seat rails. The car was originally a bench seat car with column shift and over the years it was changed out to 1965 Mustang Buckets with a ratchet shifter. Using 2x2 square tubing for a seat rail is fine. Leaving the ends open, clamping them down instead of bolting them down, and using a piece of plywood under the carpet for a spacer is not ok. I bought new tubing since the guy who mounted the seats apparently had no clue & drilled a bunch of holes and made it too short (the reason for the clamps). I also used some Ĺ square tubing to level the inboard seat rail since there is no original mount there. Seats are mounted with grade 5 bolts and washers with flanged grade 5 nuts. I painted the rails with truck bed liner for durability. The holes were elongated sideways for adjustability in mounting so I could get the seats positioned just right. When torqued down with the flanged nuts and lock washers they donít move.




The plastic caps close off the ends and make it look more finished. Here is a test mount before I insulated this part of the floor & installed the carpet. Amazon.com : 2" Black Plastic Plugs for Square Tubing by Caplugs Package of 4 : Everything Else




New trunk mat, insulation, and speaker wire ran. Trunk mounted battery also. Still need to make a spare tire mounting flange. The trunk mat is an ACC unit I got from Amazon Amazon.com: 1965 Ford Fairlane Burtex Factory Fit Trunk Mat: Automotive




600 watt amp to drive my speakers so I can hear my tunes over my 4-60 A/C. Amazon.com: New Rockford Fosgate Prime 600 Watt Class D 4 channel Amplifier: Car Electronics it feeds my speakers though 14AWG OFC cable to keep loss to a minimum. Amazon.com: C&E 100 Feet 14AWG Enhanced Loud Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Wire Cable, CNE62761: Electronics it is feed by a 4AWG OFC cable XS Power XSFLEX4BL-5 (xsp-xsflex4bl5) XS Power XS Flex 4 AWG 100 and grounded by a 4AWG OFC cable NVX XW4WH5 5 ft. of Frosted White 4-Gauge EnvyFlex Power/Ground Wire Cable I used the second fuse holder that matches the one I used for my main power cable to the battery but dropped the fuse down to 100amps http://smile.amazon.com/InstallGear-.../dp/B00D8E0SRA They are termined in gold plated terminals http://smile.amazon.com/Link-RT4-4-G.../dp/B0002YXQ2I The signal comes through dual twisted pair RCA cables for no noise Amazon.com: Rockford RFIT20 20-Feet Premium Dual Twist Signal Cable: Car Electronics




Trunk insulation is black so it doesn't look like a solar oven in there.




Floor insulated in the passenger compartment & wires taped in place while getting ready to lay carpet.




Seatbelts and Shifter/Console base are in first to center the carpet and hold it in place. I used new seat belt bolts I bought from summit. There are for a 1964-1973 mustang but they match what came out and have a nice chrome finish and new washers. Scott Drake Seat Belt Bolts 382627-K - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing the carpet is an ACC carpet I got through Amazon from Stock Interiors http://smile.amazon.com/Fairlane-Car.../dp/B006K2KNPO the color is a match for the darker color in my two tone interior. The carpet I removed was the lighter color carpet but I didnít like how it showed dirt. So while not a factory color carpet it is a color the factory used and the carpet is a factory style. The car isnít a restoration anyways also. The Seatbelts are from Seatbelt planet and match the lighter blue in the interior. https://www.seatbeltplanet.com/seatb...cts/123/view/4







Back seats and side panels in.




Still a couple wrinkles but they will be worked out.




My wife stripped the vinyl off the old broken up original paperboard parcel tray. I got a thicker stronger hard board and cut it to shape. She then recovered it & I mounted my 6x9's to it. Because of the stripes and the fact they are supposed to line up with the back seat it took several attempts to get it just right. The speakers are kicker KS 6x9ís. Amazon.com: Kicker 41KSC694 6x9 inch Coaxial Speaker: Sports & Outdoors My wife did an awesome job I think.










Front seats, new console, and new kick panels fitted. The kick panels hold the 6.5" speakers. The Speakers I bought from Amazon and are Kicker KS 6.5ís Amazon.com: Kicker 41KSC654 6.5 inch Coaxial 2-Way Speakers: Sports & Outdoors The Kickpanels are from Rhino Fabrication 1962-1965 Ford Fairlane Kick Panels w/ Speaker Pods | Rhino Fabrication I painted with a custom mixed paint I got from my local Sherwin Williams that they paint matched for me when I did the steering column. They were cleaned with duplicolor wax and grease remover & then prepared with SEM Sand Free before the paint. Amazon.com: SEM 38363 Sand Free - 11.6 oz: Automotive




I also put a rubber cover over the dimmer switch so itís a cleaner look. Scott Drake Headlamp Dimmer Switch Covers C5ZZ-13533 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing No thatís not the stock location for the dimmer. It had to be relocated because the kick panels stick out further with the speakers. I sat in the seat with everything installed but the dimmer and then decided where I wanted it. I then marked that area with tape and cut the hole. Once that was in I mounted the switch to go where the hole was.




The Carpet now goes all the way up. It used to be cut much shorter and looked like crap. It pays to take the time to do things right.




Fuzzy dice are overdone I think but every car needs something. Mine needed a stuffed poodle.




Plenty of room to hop on in the back.




It always is harder to get your work done when you have to watch your back with those tricksy squirrels and robins trying to sneak into your workspace. You also need to be alerted when the mailman / UPS dude comes with parts. Thatís the job of Ace the Bat-Poodle. He is a good shop partner even if he canít get me beer or tools. He just wanted a nice place to lay in the sun for all his hard work so he claimed the old car carpet as his. Iím glad to let him have it.



When I drove out to the shop to get the alignment done the car was a whole lot quieter than before. I think this is due to a few factors. #1 all the holes were filled and the torn up floor & firewall gaskets were replaced. #2 The sound deader I applied all over the floor and side-panels. #3 The carpet that now fits properly and goes all the way up over the bottom of the firewall insulation so there is no gap in coverage.

Once I get the car back I'll post more pictures. Only thing not shown from the interior is the clear cut-to-fit floor-mats I tossed in right before I drove it to get the alignment. I still have a few more things I want to do with the interior. It's missing the trim at the bottom of the side-panels & I can't find it anywhere so I may have to make some up. Also the armrests need refreshing. Some cleaning and a dye may do that. I'll do that when I replace the tired door cards/ side panels and tired looking cranks and handles. That was not done at this time for 2 reasons. #1 I am out of money. #2 The weather stripping needs replaced and if they are going to come off again for that and could get damaged when that happens and by any weather between now & then. So I will wait until I replace the weather stripping. Hope to get that done this summer. Then the rest I can do over the winter after I pay off the credit card!
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post #29 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Well the rack is on it again and it's still not right. I have a call into Marc @ Unisteer & am waiting on him getting back to me. It binds in the center of the rack and is looser near the ends when steering. It wont return to center & it has enough caster that it should. The car turns but it takes more effort than it should & you have to steer it back. I'm not real enthused at the moment since I just spent $500 on them to fix it & do an alignment & before that I spent hours upon hours of me trying to get it to fit right and playing phone tag with Marc to try to get this straightened out. When you spend nearly $2000 on a steering system it should work out of the box.
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post #30 of 57 (permalink) Old 06-09-2016, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Well latest report: I drove the car a bit & it loosened some & became easier to drive. I talked to Marc & he talked me though a rack adjustment but also wanted to go small on the adjustment so it didn't lose mesh. I loosened the adjustment some & it helped on the extreme ends with some return to center but it is slow & there is none in the middle still. Steering effort is further decreased. He now wants me to put 200-300 more miles on the car of low speed driving with lots of turns & then see what it does. Basically he wants me to wear in the rack & suspension components. Honestly not enthused with this but we will see how it does.

Last edited by Magnus1965; 06-09-2016 at 08:25 AM.
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