The correct Grant adapter is #4286 but, some guys have ended up with a 2" space from back of wheel to colomn,if you have a solid shaft with no rag joint, seems its an easy fix.
Since it's a 65 it called for a different part # in the catalog and website than the earlier cars. Not sure if that was do to one of the changes that happened in 65 or not.
The Bondi guys came up with a collar to take up the space & also fixed the signal cancelling issue.
Not sure if this was a part of the collar fix or a separate part to fix signals, but, I know they made more of them for other F;lane guys, I will call Ted the owner, see if he can recall the fix.
Sounds Awesome. Look forward to hearing what you find out.
Did you say what rear rim/tire size your running?
With the 8.8" I got 245/50 x 16;s with room to spare, may go larger but looks/rides/handles great for now.
All four corners and my spare have American Racing Outlaw I wheels. The wheels are 15x7 with 3.76" of backspace. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/are-ar615765/
On them I an running 215/60R15 Kelly Charger GT tires. It's the wheels the car came with (well except for the spare) and they work decent. They are an all season high performance tire & I haven't broke them loose on a turn yet but I know there are better tires out there. They are on the very ragged edge of backspace (as in not enough) so when I swap I will be going to more BS. Right now they sometimes rub up front on a turn going up into my driveway if the passenger weight is too high. That is after I rolled the fender. It was worse before. Lowering the front & widening the track (with the disc brake swap) were both factors to the rubbing.
I eventually want to go for a more performance oriented tire when funds allow. I was thinking something like this. https://www.summitracing.com/search/...lassic-wheels/
with a 4" back space on the front on 17x7's and 17x8's with a 5" BS on the back. Probably use a tire like the G-FORCE COMP-2 A/S in 215/45r17 and 245/40r17.
I'm also considering a rear end swap. If I do that then I may change the width on the rear which would consider a whole new thinking on wheel size. Right now the stock 8" is fine with the low HP the stockish motor puts out. But the gearing sucks (factory stock 2.80). If I am going to invest the money in a new set of gears, and seals, and a limited slip of some kind then a rear-end swap is definitely worth consideration when you factor in the limits of the stock rear end. Not sure if I want to do an explorer mod & swap or just order an 9" and bolt it in. That's a big expensive decision & not one I need to worry about now. I'm working on the car in stages & new rear, aluminum driveshaft, beefed up trans, and engine swap (maybe a 347?) will all come about the same time as new wheels & tires. And that likely won't happen until I pay off my F150 unless I blow something up.
First I want to get the window, door & top rubber done first since it limits when I can drive the car & that stuff is EXPENSIVE! Plus since I don't do windows (the glass shop can break the windshield or vent windows and replace it on their dime taking it out & in) I need to reserve some funds for labor on that too. I'm thinking that the whole job will cost me around $1500 for rubber & labor based on the quotes from the local autoglass place & Mac's.
Your console is way better looking than the Neon, the Neon front edge just, well, just ends before the dash, I think I will mount a 3 pod gauge cluster right there, give it a finished look.
then again, I may follow your lead & try to make a custom, more I look at yours more I;m envious!
Thanks! Well I see you can do one of 3 things. #1 Do what you said above with the Neon console. #2 Do what I did. #3 Do a combination of the two. By that use the neon console as a base, and then fiberglass on it to customize the fit to your car and style.
Fiberglass work isn't hard or overly expensive. It's just nasty & time consuming. It makes a huge mess, and it took me two weeks. Part of that time was design and part of it was learning curve. To do it again might take me a week. I think I spent maybe $200 plus paint, stain, and sandpaper I already had on hand to make the console. I also already had the shifter. Some of that cost is metal tubing/bar, wood and stainless cupholders, and stainless fasteners.
If you used a neon console as a base you might not need all those things. I googled it after you mentioned it & it looks like using one would have it's pluses. It certainly would be less work either as a base to fiberglass off of or as is. I like it has the armrest also. Not too crazy about the parking brake provision though. Looks like this guy filled it in with plastic & filled the gaps with road chip. Made a custom 3rd Gen Nova console
Hmmm I'm not so sure how that will look in a couple years. I like to over build things and I know mine will not peal/de-laminate and it's also built strong enough to sit an adult on with the metal frame that the wood & fiberglass are resting directly on. It is also made to fit the car and the aesthetic of the car so it looks like it belongs. That guy does has an armrest and a storage compartment though. Those are cool things to have.