Magnus 1965 Fairlane - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum
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post #1 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-29-2015, 11:27 AM Thread Starter
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Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Well it's officially fall now & time to start getting the car ready for Spring. I bought this at the end of the summer & it's the first non-modern car I've had in a long long time. Here is a picture of my kid & the car


and here is the inside



These were taken before I really did anything to the car. It came with the interior done (Mustang buckets) and the car repainted. The car is pretty clean overall no rot and body filler. I've done a couple small things since (fixed a couple minor trim & interior pieces that were missing or in poor shape, replaced all the rubber fuel line & sender, made new side panels for the trunk floor, added a tachometer & rear seat belts) but now comes the big money. I ordered new power disc brake, suspension & rack & pinion parts today. Over the winter I hope to post pictures of my progress as I attempt to make a 50 year old Fairlane stop, and turn much more like a modern car. I know I won't get to say 2015 standards but heck if I can bring it 1990 standards I'll be stoked. Along the way I may do some sound deadening & make a custom spare tire mount.

Future plans after the before mentioned call for new door cards, some kind of basic sound system (nothing nuts), minor trim pieces that are missing, and new weather stripping. Far down the road (after the before mentioned is paid off & my truck is paid off) I hope to swap out the drivetrain for a 347, a beefed up C4, and a 9” rear. The car runs well now so it is not a priority.
The goal is not to build a show car or a race car. The goal is a nice family car that can stop, turn and accelerate well. All while being relatively safe and reliable. I am not doing a restoration but I want to keep the feel of a 1965 Fairlane. Maybe a 1965 Fairlane as it would have been in say 1990 if it was fixed up nice. So no air-ride, digital gauges or modern fuel injected motors. I’m always open to positive suggestions. Hope you enjoy what follows.

Last edited by Magnus1965; 10-29-2015 at 11:31 AM.
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post #2 of 57 (permalink) Old 10-29-2015, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Here are the photos of the trunk side panels I made up. I wan't too impressed with the stock paper board. Sure they were still in there after 50 years but some quality 1/4" ply would be the same thickness and stronger. With a coat of paint it would last longer too. So I made a pattern off what I had left and made some.


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post #3 of 57 (permalink) Old 11-05-2015, 10:57 AM
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Ah yes, I have fond memories of the '65 my parents had when I was a kid. Same color, but with the tan interior.

Welcome to the one year only bodystyle!
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-chunger
'68 Ranchero 500
'70 Cougar XR-7 Convertible
'98 Mustang GT Convertible
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post #4 of 57 (permalink) Old 11-06-2015, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Well got some parts in. Still waiting for the Rack & Pinion from Unisteer, springs from Eaton Detriot spring, and rear sway bar from Quickor Garage. All those parts are made to order. Can't go too far without the springs though.



I've also got the interior all out. I found a few pinholes I need to patch. Some where along the way someone drilled a few extra holes in the floor, and there is also some rubber plugs missing. I will clean up the rust, weld up the extra holes both drilled & rusted, and get new rubber plugs for the factory holes. I will also add new seam sealer, paint the floor, then undercoat it, and then add sound deader before the carpet goes back in. Hope to get the rust & hole removal done this weekend.



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post #5 of 57 (permalink) Old 11-29-2015, 11:17 PM
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

That's a clean coupe! Very little rust. I wish my 65's instrument panel looked that nice. Good luck with the build & keep us posted.
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post #6 of 57 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Exhaust is out, drive shaft is out. Still doing some floor pan work. Got a new crossbrace in the floor to replace the crushed one & straightened out the pan. At some point in the past someone drove over a rock or something but that is all fixed now. Filled all of the small factory punched holes. Some of the rust is repaired. Still a little bit left. I haven't done much welding in the last 20 years but I'm getting better the more I go. If I had a gas mig instead of a flux core it would help. Welding this thin stuff is harder also. Additionally welding upside down with just enough clearance to get under the car is hard. I have been doing hole filling without patches so far. May have do some patches on other parts. I think the subframe connectors will be easier as I have some practice now and that stuff is much thicker. Here is the new brace. Yeah I know the welds look like like a line boogers on the Mona Lisa but they are strong. With a subframe connecter over part of it & some new seam-sealer & undercoating and it will look fine. The orange is the copper weld through primer.



Here is the driveshaft repainted. Looks alot better than it did. It will do until I get an aluminum one when I do the drivetrain upgrade once my F-150 is paid off.


Floor pan repairs are taking longer than I thought they would but then I am trying to do the best I can given how out of practice my welding is. Luckily my metal shaping skills are as good as they ever were.

Rack & pinion came in today so now I have all my parts. I'll update again when I have more to show.
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post #7 of 57 (permalink) Old 12-13-2015, 11:34 PM
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Looking nice. I'm sure with a little practice your welding skills will be back in no time. Keep on rockin, JD
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post #8 of 57 (permalink) Old 12-26-2015, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Well itís been a busy couple weeks. The front floor-pans are repaired so I painted them with under coating. I also replaced all the seam sealer I could reach with new. I havenít done the rear floors since they may move a bit when I put in the sub-frame connectors and I donít want any issues with that. I will be test fitting them before doing the floor repairs but that will be after I get the axle back in with the new springs and hardware. No the floors aren't perfect but I did manage to seal them up completely of all the factory punched holes and remove any rust.


I painted the axle, springs, and all the hardware with Rust-Oleum gloss black and a paint brush. This should keep it good for years under the car. The reason a paint brush is well the weather is too wet to paint outside with a rattle can, and I donít want my car with overspray all over it. Besides itís a driver & this is all underneath so, good enough & better than it was. The axle isn't forever but like the driveshaft it works for this power level and will be replaced when I have the funds in the future. In the meantime some paint really makes it look alot better.









I am also applying new undercoating under the car & on the inside including the trunk. This will help prevent future corrosion issues & help a little with sound deadening. Using the Rust-Oleum Professional Undercoating for this. Ĺ way through the second coat on all the paint now & just finished the 1st coat of all the undercoating. I think I will be doing 2 coats of each on all the surfaces.





The battery tray was rusty & the battery will be moved to the trunk anyway so I shaved it off the engine bay. This will leave me some room to mount an ignition box in the future or perhaps a vacuum canister and pump if I need it for the power brakes.

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post #9 of 57 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Happy New Year. Not a major amount done but made a big mile stone. Rear suspension all installed. New Eaton Detroit Heavy Duty 5 leaf springs. Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings. Quickor Garage Rear Sway-bar. And KYB Gas-A-Just rear shocks. Paint touched up after install & hope to install sub-frame connectors soon.





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post #10 of 57 (permalink) Old 01-25-2016, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Been a few weeks but Iím making progress. We had a short warm up so I had an opportunity to work on the car a bit. I dropped the car all the way to the ground rolled it back and lifted back up. That way I have room to work under the front now. I have installed my subframe connectors from Crites. The floorpan brace reinforcement didnít fit all the great on the passenger side & needed tweaking. On the drivers side were I have to weld in a replacement aftermarket brace it didnít fit at all. I had to basically flatten out the 16 gauge plate & remake it. The reason being the aftermarket one is thicker metal and physically wider than the stock one. Since it didnít fit well on the original it didnít fit at on the replacement.
Priority was getting stuff done & not taking pics but I did manage a few after I got the car in the air & the suspension off the passenger side. My ďcustom high lift jack standsĒ are in the way a bit but you get the idea. The black goop is not glue itís seam sealer. That way the welds are water tight if I have any voids.

Passenger side looking back



Drivers side looking back



This picture here shows the distance from the pinch weld. I wanted to run them as straight as possible so I have a good jacking rail. It also leaves plenty of room under the car for other things as needed and provides a good point of fuel & brake line attachments since inside the driveshaft tunnel between the spinning drive shaft & the hot exhaust is a terrible idea.


Here is a close up of the back of the sub frame connector. I boxed in the back to keep out crud from collecting in there. It is welded along the full length of the rear spring mounting plate in the back and jacking front plates. With it welded on 3 sides front & rear it has plenty of contact area.



Here is one from the passenger side with all the suspension off. At this point I had gotten the driverís side off as well. Now itís time to clean everything up, replace worn bits, pull the steering column and drop the steering box. Then the new bits can go in & I will follow that up with the rack and pinion.
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post #11 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-04-2016, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Things are coming apart. That is my steering box lying in the floor.



Things are also coming together. Here is my rebuilt upper & lower arms. Using polyurethane bushings in the lower arms. Also shown is the 1.5Ē lowered coil from Eaton Detroit & my adjustable strut rod from Street or Track. Next to them are my KYB monotube shocks with some new grade 8 bolts.


I have quite a bit of manhours in getting those arms clean & painted. Thatís the kind of thing that happens when your cleaning parts in the laundry room sink with dish-soap & a screwdriver. Instead of using a parts washer and blaster.
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post #12 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-06-2016, 04:53 PM
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

keep moving forward, I like 3Ms two part seam sealer and the sub frame connectors going down the center of the car but what ever works.

check your lower ball joints!
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Last edited by Iowan; 02-06-2016 at 04:58 PM.
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post #13 of 57 (permalink) Old 02-08-2016, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Ran out of weekend but I made some progress. Front suspension is 90% in. Just need to get a bigger torque wrench for a few bolts and put in the sway-bar & spring covers.


Putting in the Eaton Detroit Spring was an experience. I am so glad it was a 1.5Ē lower one! That took the most time and our homemade tool just didnít fly. We ended up borrowing the tool from Autozone (the internal spring tool OEM 27035) & while it went against the prevailing wisdom & was kind of scary to use, it worked. We honestly should have just gone this route in the beginning. We lost of a lot of hours making a tool & it not working & trying to figure out how to make it work. If you take off the coil spring covers inside the fender it makes it a whole lot easier.


The Street or Track adjustable strut-rods went together super easy. No harder than assembling a tie-rod end. I took anti-seize & painted the threads. I then screwed it all the way in. I mounted it up in the vice & took the old one as a guide & screwed it out until the mating surface on the backside of the front mount was the same distance on both. If you hold the front mount in place it will screw them out evenly on the threads. I then torqued down the lock nuts. This will be a good starting place for the alignment shop.


I had ordered a kit from PST that included shafts upper bushings & upper & lower ball joints. The PST lower ball-joints needed the holes for the strut-rod widened just a bit with a Dremel after the ball-joint was in as the holes were off maybe a 1/16 of an inch. Once reamed out a bit the bolts for the strut-rod would drop in. After I got it all assembled and torqued down the spindle I greased with Red Line Synthetic Grease.


The upper control arms went together pretty easily once I figured out the trick with the o-ring. The o-ring had flashing on it & that needs trimmed off to fit properly inside the cap. My old caps used rubber boots & I couldnít figure out at first what the issue was. I took a toenail clipper (it has the perfect curve for this) and trimmed off the flashing & then it fit in tight but perfect. A bit of white lithium grease on the o-ring helps also. I also cut grease groves into the shafts with a cutoff wheel. I then pre-assembled them & then removed all the rubber shavings from the threads. After that I pre-greased them with Red Line, assembled & then re-greased. I am confident that they will be thoroughly lubricated the zerk fittings look like I can reach them with the wheel off.


The PST upper balljoints are sealed units. No grease fittings. Not really crazy about that but honestly the upper ones are easy to change on the car & if they give me any fits I will replace them with a serviceable one. They just bolted in easy peasy.
The Energy Suspension control arm bushings went on super easy as well. I just made sure the mating services were clean of all paint and dirt & oil. I then took an acid brush and painted them heavily with Energy Suspension Formula Five Prelube. I coated every surface of the polyurethane & metal with the stuff. They donít include much with the bushings so I bought a big tub when I began my project.


We did the KYB Gas ĖA-Just shocks went in two different ways. The 1st time we stabbed it in the tower & then fought the shock to seat it on the control-arm with the bolts. The 2nd way and little it easier was to assemble it on the control-arm and then crawl up in the engine bay & lay on it compress it into the shock tower while a second person bolts it down. I bought some 5/16 Grade 8 fine thread bolts and nuts from the local hardware store to attach them. Cost maybe $2 for the hardware.


I need to put the coil spring shields, covers, braces whatever they are called back in. I will have to inspect the bolts & see if they are suitable for reuse or need replacement. I also need to borrow a larger torque wrench and torque the lower control arm bolt, the front mounting bolt for the strut rod and the upper control arm bolts. All of the torque specs for those exceeded the rating of my 3/8 drive torque wrench. I also need to lube all the polyurethane fittings on the sway-bar & mount it.


Here are a couple pictures of where I am now.





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post #14 of 57 (permalink) Old 03-13-2016, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Been a month since my last update & got a whole bunch done but still a long way from done. Sort of jumping around all over the car right now. Had a hang up with the steering. The Rack went in easy. The column not so much. Getting that straightened out took a while. Brakes are mostly in. Still need lines run to 3 of the wheels and lines run to & from the combination valve. One rear brake still left to do. And need to hook up the brake pedal. I replaced my gauges but the tachometer still needs mounted back. Ok on with the pictures.

Sway bar is now in as well as the spring covers. As you can see I trimmed the new bump stops since the car is lowered a bit in the front.



Old Anti-sway Bar vs New Anti-sway Bar.



Installed.



Front brakes are on. 1965 Mustang Rotors & Calipers. Stainless hoses. I will be running 1 stainless line. The passenger side line from ďthe right stuffĒ fits. The Drivers side did not. I got a partial refund so I will probably bend some nicopp lines up for the driverís side like I planned to do for the rear.



Master Cylinder & Booster mounted to the firewall. Still need to hook the pedal up. The included rod was a bit short. I bought an extension & now I canít find the rod. Oh well it will turn up or Iíll get another.



Rear stainless hose mounted with nothing coming out of it yet.



Here is the combination valve mounted up for now. Still needs lines.

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post #15 of 57 (permalink) Old 03-13-2016, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Magnus 1965 Fairlane

Steering was a bit of a pain. My steering was a major concern for me redoing this this car. The steering box was loose. Way too loose. Scary loose. I wanted something not only better than wornout 1965 steering I wanted something better than new 1965 steering. I wanted a power rack & pinion unit. The rack and pinion actually went in easy it was the column that was hard. Marc from Unisteer was a nice guy & we worked through it all. Seems my car is not the same as the car they made the kit for. Iím thinking their care had the column swapped some time in its past because the instructions mention rag joints & the shaft for my column was a bit long as initially installed. Instructions are also a little less than clear sometimes as well. One of things I wanted to do is replace the bearing at the top of the column. This is not included in the kit & the bearing is unavailable anywhere. Also just so you know 1965 Mustang Bearings donít fit I tried one.
So issue one. It looked like the instructions say the bearing goes to the top of the column. Iím like how the hell does this fit?



I called Marc & he explained it went in the bottom. I bought a new plastic race spacer thingie from Macís for the shaft and packed the $hite out of the bearing with new grease. The bearing then would not press fit in the bottom. It flat fell out. Solution was drill a hole in the bottom of the column sleeve, dimple the bearing housing, make a set screw, tap the column housing, and go to town fitting it all up. I also slathered it down with locktite on the screw and the external housing for the bearing so it wouldnít fall out.



Issue #2 the steering wheel was too far away from the column and I had the column shifted all the way up. Marc sent some spacers & said I may need to cut the shaft too. I dinít need to cut the shaft & the spacers worked (sort of).



Issue #3 was that Iíve always been taught to keep u-joints in phase. This doesnít work with this kit. If they are in phase they bind. I put them 90į out & Problem solved.

Issue #4. While the spacers worked the steering wheel still wasnít right. This wasnít a unisteer issue (or I donít think it is) I think it is more a grant issue or perhaps a grant & unisteer compatibility issue. The thing is the Horn contacts were too far way and the turn signals didnít come off as the wheel was turned. I added a 3rd spacer but it was then too close to the wheel and the turn signal locked up the rotation of the wheel. I removed the 3rd spacer and then modified the adapter to let the horn contacts work. The turn signals will just have to be turned off manually. At least until someday in the future if I decide to upgrade to a tilt column.
Grant adapter & washer I used. Notice two notches added already to clean turn signal roll pins. (didnít bother leaving them on when they didnít work)



Washer/spacer modified and contanct ring separated from hub.



Fully done glued & wires have silicone on them to insulate from hub contact.



Grant Steering wheel fully installed on newly painted column. Also shown is gauge panel pained to match dash and new AutoMeter electrical Traditional Chrome gauges to replace crappy Autoguage mechanical ones that didnít work. I also repainted the glove box, the ashtray, and did some touch up on the dash.



Rack installed.



This just clears the factory cross member. It clears though and since it adds a second cross member a little behind it, it should add to the stiffness.



Power Steering pump installed and lines.



If it doesnít have zip ties on it, itís not a hotrod.





Things still left to do: Drivers side rear brake, run brake lines, bleed lines, new fuel line, buy battery, install battery box, install battery cables, install driveshaft & exhaust, Paint 3Ē of sub-frame connector on each side with undercoating, install strut braces, terminate sender wires on gauges, change leaking thermostat, make then paint & and install monte-carlo bar, install sound deadener, paint & install kickpanels, order & install sound system, order, order & then install new carpet & trunk mat, install new pedals, install shifter, change door locks, reinstall door card handles and seats. After that it is a trip to the alignment shop. Then I drive it a bit & shake out the bugs and fix those. After that new weather-stripping will be ordered & then a trip to the glass shop for them to install all the bits that require glass removal. Guess I won't have this in the alignment shop by April...
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