Ford 1968 Galaxie - Page 2 - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 09:18 PM
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Re: Ford 1968 Galaxie

if the intake is leaking, spraying carb cleaner in the crankcase at idle will cause a change in the way it runs
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Ford 1968 Galaxie

thanks extech for the quick reply. Given that I didn't see any crankcase vacuum and thus couldn't be sure of the gas finding its way straight to the intake I did not want to fill the crankcase with ether or what ever oil detoriating chem carb clean is made of.


As I had already bought the gaskets for the top-end I decided to tear the intake off to see if I could see any evident signs of a leak. What I found was dirt, incredible amounts of dirt. The intake runner was oily but not less so on the intake side which leads me to believe that my problem was not the gasket or at least it hasn't been leaking for that long.


How would you guys on the forum proceed from here? Would you just clean everything as much as possible and put it all back? Take the left head off to take a good look at that piston, the valve seals and the cylinder wall? Take both heads off and bring them to the machine shop for a rebuild? Or would the dirtiness of this thing bring you to the conclusion that a full rebuild is due??


Really not looking to spend a fortune here and want to enjoy the car in the summer instead of wrenching on it
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 04:08 PM
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Re: Ford 1968 Galaxie

someone didn't do much maintainance i would look between the valve springs to see if the valve seals are still there. if some are missing or broken its time for rebuild
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Ford 1968 Galaxie

Quote:
Originally Posted by extech View Post
someone didn't do much maintainance i would look between the valve springs to see if the valve seals are still there. if some are missing or broken its time for rebuild
I couldn't really see any valve seals at all and decided to take the heads off to check the cylinders and heads properly while I was at it. What I found wasn't that rewarding, the cylinder walls were heavily scratched and the carbon buildup so thick that the front return passages had totally clogged which was likely my problem to start with.

I now have no choice but a full rebuild however I would to the furthest extent possible like to manage such quickly and within a budget. I have booked a slot with a machine shop in town the week after next and now looking at parts. What are your oppinions on these kits? Are they just junk or are they good for a more or less standard rebuild.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Enginetech-...kAAOSwTuJYppVZ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-V-8-39...AAAOSwKM5Z3p3-

I would also like to get back to the mileage discussions, anything particular I should be thinking about now in terms of engine spec to get the best possible mileage? Should I look at going 4bbl or stay 2bbl?

Best regards,
Axel
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 11:03 AM
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Re: Ford 1968 Galaxie

engine tech stuff is"ok", but the name brand kit is a pretty good deal. if you go with the cheaper one, pay attention to the head gaskets. i got a set that were labeled front on the back. if i put them on as the label said i would have had overheating problems.... you also need to get a piston to your machine shop so they can hone to it's size
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-25-2019, 11:04 AM
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Re: Ford 1968 Galaxie

i would also opt for a 4 bbl carb, but finding a proper manifold could be a problem
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-26-2019, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Ford 1968 Galaxie

Quote:
Originally Posted by extech View Post
engine tech stuff is"ok", but the name brand kit is a pretty good deal. if you go with the cheaper one, pay attention to the head gaskets. i got a set that were labeled front on the back. if i put them on as the label said i would have had overheating problems.... you also need to get a piston to your machine shop so they can hone to it's size
Already got hold of a fel-pro gasket set so can use those instead and maybe go for the cheaper kit. Will start searching for a 4-bbl intake, there are plenty of cast iron ones around here but would prefer to go aluminum if I take that route and then it becomes much more expensive all of a sudden.

I need to move the car to a better garage where I'm able to wrench on it in a better way. I have 3,4 miles between where the car is now and where it is going, can I flat tow it that distance slowly in neutral or will that damage the transmission?
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-27-2019, 05:41 AM
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Re: Ford 1968 Galaxie

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Originally Posted by axelg89 View Post
Already got hold of a fel-pro gasket set so can use those instead and maybe go for the cheaper kit. Will start searching for a 4-bbl intake, there are plenty of cast iron ones around here but would prefer to go aluminum if I take that route and then it becomes much more expensive all of a sudden.

I need to move the car to a better garage where I'm able to wrench on it in a better way. I have 3,4 miles between where the car is now and where it is going, can I flat tow it that distance slowly in neutral or will that damage the transmission?

Hello axelg89,

Towing the car 3.4 miles on the rear wheels will not hurt the transmission if you keep the speeds low. The biggest problem with towing the transmission is lack of lubrication since the engine driven pump provides lubrication to the internal rotating assembly.

The only automatic transmissions I know of that you can safely tow with the rear wheels on the ground are the Ford FX and MX transmissions. They have a front engine driven pump and a rear propshaft driven pump. Even without the engine spinning the rear pump provides essential lubrication for the transmission whilst towing at highway speeds.

But it was an added expense to produce and Ford dropped the rear pump in '68 for the FMX transmission which is as you probably guessed is an amalgamation of the FX and MX transmission. The C4 and C6 Ford transmissions never had a rear pump from inception.

Good Luck with the engine repair!

Cheers
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Ford 1968 Galaxie

So I tore the engine down completely and found a piston that had lost its skirt (found it in the pan), also found a lot of metallic debris in the pan and something that was like a thick oily mud. A lot of bearing were severly scored etc. Oh and the cam gears were so worn that I could almost lift the chain off from the gears. It was really time for a rebuild.


I removed the oil and water plugs and delivered the engine to a cleaning service that's cleaning it atm. After that it's going to the machine shop hopefully tomorrow. I am thinking about ordering this kit as I think it looks like the right parts and quality at the right price, what is your take on this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-390-ca...0/171192838540


Anyone have experiance or opinions on the cam?


Elgin Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft
More performance, less money. The best deal in "Name Brand" camshafts available! With a large selection of performance grinds, Elgin has you covered. Whether your goal is to boost low-end torque, increase fuel economy, or just flat-out embarrass the "other guy", youíll find the ideal answer right here!

Part Type: Camshaft
Application: Ford FE V8 330-428 1963-1978
Ignition Firing Order: OE (1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8)
Cam Style: Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Basic RPM Range: 1500-4000

Manufacturers Description: Fair idle, good low end torque and response.
Intake Duration @ .050": 204
Exhaust Duration @ .050": 214
Advertised Intake Duration (@ .006"): 282
Advertised Exhaust Duration (@ .006"): 292
Intake Valve Lift with OE Rocker Ratio (1.75): .486"
Exhaust Valve Lift OE Rocker Ratio (1.75): .512"
Intake Lobe Lift: .278"
Exhaust Lobe Lift: .293"
Intake Valve Lift with 1.70 Rocker Ratio: .472"
Intake Valve Lift with 1.80 Rocker Ratio: .500"
Exhaust Valve Lift with 1.70 Rocker Ratio: .497"
Exhaust Valve Lift with 1.80 Rocker Ratio: .527"

Lobe Separation Angle: 112 Degrees
Intake Centerline: 108 Degrees
Lifters Included: No

Small Base Circle: No
Cam Gear Attachment: Single-Bolt
Valve Adjustment: Zero Lash Plus 1/2 Turn
Manufacturer: Elgin Industries
Manufacturer's Part Number: E966P
Weight: 10.0 lbs.
Warranty: Race Application, No warranty expressed or implied
Quantity: Sold as Each
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-07-2019, 01:36 PM
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Re: Ford 1968 Galaxie

just happend to put this cam in my engine not more than a month ago. i like the extra low end torque, havent noticed a difference at higher rpms. go for it
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-09-2019, 08:09 PM
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Re: Ford 1968 Galaxie

post script. do not rely on the timing marks on the timing gear set. i set mine straight up using the gear marks. engine ran like crap. went back and used a degree wheel and set cam timing to 108 intake centerline. now it runs great
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 02:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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post script. do not rely on the timing marks on the timing gear set. i set mine straight up using the gear marks. engine ran like crap. went back and used a degree wheel and set cam timing to 108 intake centerline. now it runs great
Great info, thanks!

Did you use stock springs, rockers and pushrods? Will need to get new valves, springs and rocker assembly so wondering what to aim for with this standard/budget build.

Stock valves and springs
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F222723037939

Stock rocker assembly
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F142872150933

Or Procomp aluminum, can they be trusted?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F351912528760
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 06:28 PM
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Re: Ford 1968 Galaxie

springs should be matched to cam. all the other stuff is fine as stock for what you are doing
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-11-2019, 06:35 PM
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Re: Ford 1968 Galaxie

elgin says 105# on seat, 265# open
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 07-12-2019, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Ford 1968 Galaxie

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elgin says 105# on seat, 265# open
Thanks for all the help. Have never rebuilt a set of heads before so I'm a true newbie in this department.

Asked seller to add springs to go with the cam and they added a spring set with 110# on seat and 320# open saying that was recommended by Elgin for this cam. Where did you find the spring info, should I ask for the 105/265 springs or go with the 110, 320?

BR
Axel
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