Such great advice. Thank you, and by the way the car is a Y car with the 2bbl carb still in place. Will make sure to fill the tires good at the next fill-up as I tbh haven't checked them yet
Will take it bit by bit with the changes that you propose. They all sound great! Yesterday I ordered a modern head unit stereo and four box speakers to put under the bench. Also got a Petronix ignition module and a Grant weel for it so now I'm just waiting for shipping now.
Regarding the headers as you say the car still has the orignial cast-iron ones in place. I'm slightly reluctant to change them as I find that the headers are such a pain in the ass to get to not leak. Is it such an efficiency upgrade that I is worth the hassle?
You're welcome for the advice. You asked if headers were worth it. Well that's a two part question I can see; quality and what gains does it give you. To address the quality there is a place called FPA that makes a really great set of headers for the 65-68 Ford fullsize with FE. I have bought 2 of his headers and will be buying the last set I need shortly here for our 3rd Ford, a 68 XL. He guaranteed me they will not leak. I have one installed on our first ground up build and so far they are fantastic. Working on our second ground up build. Now these are called shorty to medium length headers but are probably heavier than the cast iron manifolds with a thick sealing flange.
They are pricey but worth it in my opinion quality wise. The last set of ceramic coated headers that arrived a couple months ago were $1030 shipped to the good ol USA.
Now the question is are they worth it for performance/economy gains. All I will say is this; a system is only as good as its weakest link. With that the headers will help some. They alone are not the answer since most of the parts on the car are hindering performance and or economy. All our '66's and '68 Ford galaxie 500 XL, LTD and XL are FE's C6, big bearing 9 inch cars and were all originally Y code 390's. I do have a 352 and a Z code 390. The Z code 390 when it was running properly wasn't impressive either.
Please do not get me wrong I am not trying to discourage you, simply stating trying to get a newer car economy and or power levels out of technology designed in the late 50's and early 60's isn't going to come easy or cheap. Far from it, but it can be done.
There's no doubt it will be mentally and financially daunting to retrofit a drive train all at once. But if you do little things like headers, distributor recurve, carburetor tune, better tyres, etc you'll slowly increase the efficiency and performance.
The other thing to keep in mind is price point and resale value. Those 3rd gen full size Fords (65-68) unless they are the 7 litre model or equipped with an R code 427 do not hold much value. Any improvements you make to your 68 you most likely will not be able to get back out of it again. But if you're like us and love your old cars, then price doesn't matter. We drive all our old cars as daily drivers except in the crappiest of weather. We don't intend to sell them but use them.
My very first car back in high school as a junior was a '68 Ford galaxie 500 2 door fastback with just a tiny 302 and zero options. My last old Ford ground up build will be a '68 XL 2 door FE fastback fully loaded as a tribute to my old galaxie 500. I have a certain affinity for a 1968 Ford full size fastback.
Good luck with your 68!
p.s. on the Grant steering wheel you bought does it come with the Ford dual slip ring provisions for the horn, verses the more common single slip ring like GM uses? If not are you doing away with the horn? May I ask any particular reason why you are changing the steering wheel out? They do remake the '68 Ford steering wheel at a reasonable price.