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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-02-2014, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Building new 351w

Hi I just inherited a old 1972 maverick grabber. It's pretty beat up but I'm going to try and make it into a show car over the next few years. I plan on building a custom 351w to put into it. But this will be my very first time building an engine. I'm trying to get any kind of advice on how to start this project and any ideas anyone is willing to share. Building new 351w-imageuploadedbyag-free1396499417.132989.jpgBuilding new 351w-imageuploadedbyag-free1396499456.898204.jpgBuilding new 351w-imageuploadedbyag-free1396499479.956610.jpg


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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-03-2014, 05:46 AM
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Re: Building new 351w

A 351W is TIGHT in those. Do your research. You may be better served with a 302 based engine.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-03-2014, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Building new 351w

I was thinking about the 302 but I've seen a lot of other people have success with the 351w so i think I'm pretty set on trying it.


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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-17-2014, 02:38 PM
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Re: Building new 351w

Quote:
Originally Posted by lavaman View Post
I was thinking about the 302 but I've seen a lot of other people have success with the 351w so i think I'm pretty set on trying it.


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Crites use to make headers for the Mavericks with a 351W. I would contact them and see if they still can make you a set. You will want to cut out the center rib of the shock tower to give some extra room.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-18-2014, 05:13 AM
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Re: Building new 351w

IMHO you can make more power cheaper with a 302 based engine.......just saying!!

God Luck with whatever you do!!
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-24-2014, 03:03 PM
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Re: Building new 351w

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Originally Posted by lavaman View Post
I was thinking about the 302 but I've seen a lot of other people have success with the 351w so i think I'm pretty set on trying it.
hi;

how much power do you want?

you can stroke the w to 383, 393 or 410. i would not run a 410 as a daily driver.


Here’s some options


BLOCK – It is easier to get a late model 1971 and later block. The roller 351’s started in 94 with a casting of F4. These blocks frequently crack in #2 and #4 cam journal are, therefore I would not use one for ANY build. The 71 and later blocks are also .020” taller which is what you need for this kit. If your block is a 69, it is worth some money. It might cost around $700.00 by the time it's sitting in the builders shop, just ask them. See photo of journal crack in link below.

http://i.imgur.com/qODEh.jpg


HEADS

Afr 195 renegade $1800.00, or possibly the AFR 205 Renegade if you use the Comp Cams XE284H cam. The builder can do the math to determine this. I’m a bit lazy..

Flow – in 287 ex 220 @ .500, chamber 72 cc’s

http://www.summitracing.com/search?S...20heads%201383


Machine head surface approx .012” to 70cc's if you use the XE284h cam with no advance, mill them approx .006" to 71 cc's if you advance it 4 degrees.


BLOCK

Square block – This is unnecessary on mild builds but its nice to do to even out compression in all cylinders. I would recommend it on yours.

Deck block so pistons are .002" - .004" below the surface. This increases compression and reduces potential for detonation at the same time.


ROCKERS

Scorpion “race” model full roller aluminum.


CAM

Non rollers

Comp cams XE 274H for bottom to mid range power. It will have a noticeable “lope” at idle but will not be excessive. The car will shake/vibrate a little.

XE284H for mid to top end power. You can also advance this cam 4 degrees to lower the power band slightly. It will still be higher than the XE274H. It will have a very noticeable idle but not excessive/obnoxious. The car will definitely shake a little. Anything bigger cam than this is more than I think you are looking for.

Add $300.00 - $500.00 for a roller cam. I might use Elgin high rev lifters with one.


CAM BREAK IN - This must be done by the builder die to the high spring rates in the heads. He can send it out to be done.


PUSH RODS - 3/8" Chromolly


TIMING CHAIN Cloyes double roller with 0 or 2 degrees cam advance $45.00.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...view/make/ford


If block is align bored you need a shorter chain

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...view/make/ford



LIFTERS

Crane high rev $140.00



CRANK DAMPER – get the one with the correct number of holes for your crank pulley. The 7 hole dampers fit both.

Summit SFI certified- certified $145.00
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...view/make/ford

ATI SFI certified - I would run this one to reduce crank vibration and twist

http://www.summitracing.com/search/m...d=ati%20damper


ROD BOLTS – ARP or Chinese forged rods with SRP bolts.

INTAKE - Edelbrock non rpm or similar.

ENGINE BALANCE - $175.00 - $200.00


Scat 393 assy $1050.00
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-1-94205/overview/


I would have them upgrade to this crank for an extra $100.00.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...view/make/ford



STATIC COMPRESSION - With .030” over bore, 10.473
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-25-2014, 08:11 AM
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Re: Building new 351w

Use Crites headers on the 351W. They fit well, go on easy and WORK.
Anyone can put a 302 in one. But a real mechanic likes the challenge of going it different. Ain't that right FE?
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