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  • 68stang68 ·
    just read through a 45 page thread on your car build.. amazing work.. I'm really hoping you can answer a quick question on how you handled something with your minitubs though. mine required me to trim away the flange on the rear frame rail, which is where the rear seat belt anchor was.. so it requires me to move it inward. did you have to do this? where did you place yours? i looked through pics and couldn't tell.. not sure if i should place on the inner flange or weld it up inside the frame rail...
    ericcasas ·
    Dennis,

    I ordered the mono-leafs as suggested. I went with a 1" drop just to eat up some of that huge wheel well gap I was getting. I love your car's stance! I know you recommended a slipper type clutch to me earlier. The ones I'm finding make it more cost effective to buy a drag race AOD. :/ I found this on-line, though. Have you heard of these?:

    http://grannys.tripod.com/clutchtamerdiy.html


    -Eric
    dennis112 ·
    Sounds pretty nice now!

    I'd go with the Mono's over the 5 leafs as they give a better street ride and they are designed for use at the track.

    Be sure that your quarter panels will clear the tires if the car is lowered in the rear. Might also need to check shock clearance too as they may bottom out at the top.
    ericcasas ·
    Dennis,


    I have a quick question for ya! It's been a while since we've chatted but I have a 67 Coupe 351W 4-Speed w/ a 150 HP Pro Shot and 4.10 rear Detroit Locker, .646 lift solid roller. Street legal but pretty wicked to drive out there. I'm fixing to spray my car for the first time. I did a complete rear end beef up and I want to lower the car 1". With a manual trans, do you think I should go with the Cal-Trac Mono Leafs or stick with the normal 1" drop 5-leafs? I did the 6 cyl front springs w/ roller perches up front as you suggested. The nose hangs lower than the rear now and I want to balance the car out. Thanks!!


    -Eric
    MrComaToes ·
    My name is Brian, I have a 60k mile 1973 CobraJet Ranchero that was originally a 4 speed car (still has clutch pedal) converted to a C4. After searching for a year, I have found the correct RUG BG2 toploader, correct hurst shifter, bellhousing, z-bar etc. almost all of pieces I need to make it a 4-speed machine again. As you seem to be one of the most experienced people around here concerning Toploaders I was hoping I could ask you a question. What is confusing me, is the clutch release rod pivot and the clutch adjustment itself. According to my 73 chassis manual, mine should be a long, non-threaded clutch pivot on the lower z-bar arm, I can't find one, but I a short threaded one that I can either drill out and thread for the clutch rod I have, drill out larger to be unthreaded for the rod I have or find a clutch rod that fits it or something else altogether. My question: as a guy that has lots of toploader experience, how do YOU recommend doing the lower pivot/clutch adjustment?
    dennis112 ·
    Hey Monty, Yes and no.

    That is a late 70's 3 speed with overdrive toploader. They are not as covenanted nor as valuable as a 65-73 true 4 speed toploader. They are are also not as strong either as the OD gear is quite tiny. Not all the parts are still available and must be sourced used-whereas everything for the classic toploader is pretty much 100% reproduced. If OD is what you wanted, then $350 is certainly as high as one should go. They can be gotten cheaper.

    There a a couple of little issues with installing them (no true aftermarket shifter available, for one) and I can help ID some others if you are still interested. Also they do not have the bolt pattern to bolt to the early 5 bolt block's bellhousing.

    Google "toploader imposters" and you will see the difference with the regular toploaders, especially check out the David Kee site.

    Good Luck! Dennis
    cobrafan1 ·
    Dennis, I saw your post about the Toploader your doing. Was really impressed. Was wondering what mods would you recommend for a toploader that keeps the syncros? Was thinking of going to liberty for their rem and cryo processes. David Kee know makes billet forks. What else would you recommend?
    Mike
    [email protected]
    fiveoh108 ·
    Im in the middle of doing your big block input shaft conversion, great article by the way! What's the chance I could get you to make me a modified clutch fork? It's for a 64 falcon b/fx car.

    Thank you
    Mike
    [email protected]
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