1966 heater motor replacement - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-27-2009, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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1966 heater motor replacement

Is there a blower motor that has the stock look. I have only seen pictures of units sold and finding one that would look like the old one is challenging. Can one rebuild the old unit. The only thing wrong with the old one is a bit of noise when it first starts up.


Greg
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-27-2009, 08:20 PM
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Re: 1966 heater motor replacement

Buy a blower motor from Mustangs Unlimited.... If they don't have one, wassamatta with a little noise on startup? Probably just the brass bushing being dry, and a teency bit of surface rust.

If you want to do it yourself:
Take it apart and sand the outside of the wrapping, clean the copper bushings and the bushing contact point with 400 grit sand paper, lube the bushing with bearing grease, wipe off the copper and the bushings with some light WD-40 after sanding, sand the steel winding cage, then clean off the magnets, paint the cage, and re-assemble.

Viollah, no noise and fresh motor (so to speak)
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-27-2009, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1966 heater motor replacement

I was almost about to open it up, when common sense told me I may get it apart but putting those spring loaded brushes in may be a problem. Thanks for the tune up procedures, I may want to try that. I did find a site on EBAY with 1966 NOS motors.

Thanks
Greg
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-27-2009, 11:29 PM
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Re: 1966 heater motor replacement

The brushes are mounted on the lower housing and do not come out with the back of the motor. You can lube the back bushing easily but the wires that run from motor through the rear cover limit what you can easily do to get the rest of the motor apart. Use a 50/50 mix of white grease and engine oil additive (Power-Punch, Hylton's Hyper-lube, etc.) mixed thoroughly to lube the bushing. Grease will dry out and cause problems in a year or so.

66 Mustang Coupe. 365hp, 4spd Toploader, sub-frame connectors
Shelby drop, suspension tuned for slalom and hill climb
body mods and weight reduced to 2000lbs; name: Muskrat
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-28-2009, 05:29 AM Thread Starter
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Re: 1966 heater motor replacement

I'll give it a try. I did find a new style motor, but would prefer the original look.

Greg
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-28-2009, 11:00 AM
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Re: 1966 heater motor replacement

None of my bushings have dried out or gotten noisy, and I only used disc brake grease.. Higher menting temp and lubes just fine... But I like the oil part! I'm going to see about that next time.
Thanks Paul.
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-28-2009, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1966 heater motor replacement

On the motor that I am about to open up, just spinning the shaft creates a noise. This poor motor has more miles on it than most cars, considering it rains too much here. Can you buy new brushes for this motor.

Greg
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-28-2009, 09:11 PM
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Re: 1966 heater motor replacement

It's not likely that you need new brushes (a good cleaning and shaping usually works) but any good electrical alternator generator repair shop should have a matching pair.

Open it up and show us some pictures.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-29-2009, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1966 heater motor replacement

I have to take a look at how to post images.

Greg
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-29-2009, 07:52 PM
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Re: 1966 heater motor replacement

Host them at photobucket or some place then paste the link in the box that opens up when you click the Yellow Mountain.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-29-2009, 10:33 PM
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Re: 1966 heater motor replacement

I just bought a new blower motor at a local (mom & pop) auto parts dealer. It was $62+ but they are available.

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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-30-2009, 07:48 AM
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Re: 1966 heater motor replacement

I have a two speed motor on my 1966. While changing the sparkplugs, wrench slipped, bent over one wire then the whole wire fell off a month later on.

But the noise may be just the squirrel-case rubbing on something, like a dried leaf. After you get it out, you replace the motor with another, the noise may still be there. Feel around before going in and see if something is not touching the spinning impellers.

Wm.

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 01-31-2009, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1966 heater motor replacement

Haven't had time to pull the motor apart yet. There are no visible marks that the cage has been rubbing and it only made a bit of noise on initial start up. I also noticed tat the two wire that come out of the grommet are bare. The after market motors at NAPA just don't look right. May have some success when I take it apart.

Thanks again
Greg
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 08:49 AM
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Re: 1966 heater motor replacement

Given the time and trouble it takes to R&R the heater assy, You just might want to replace the motor with a new one and not worry about it for the next 40 years. I highly recommend that when the heater assy is apart that you install a seal kit in it. Also, be sure to replace the heater hoses.
If you have more time then money you can patch up the old motor and get a few more years out of it.
The bushings in the motor are made of a pourous bronze. If you don't want to take the motor apart to oil it you can drill a small hole in the bulge in the center of the end cap that faces the engine and put a few drops of oil in the hole. The bushing will soak up the oil and stay lubricated for several years. A small bit of strip caulk will seal the hole and prevent water from getting in the motor. If you remove the squirrel cage off of the shaft you will be able to put a few drops of oil down the shaft and that bushing will also soak up the oil.
If the motor rattles, it is because there is too much end play in the shaft and the motor will need to be dis-assembled to correct this.
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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 02-01-2009, 08:53 AM
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Re: 1966 heater motor replacement

But Zig.... it only takes about 3 minutes to get the blower motor out...
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