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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-14-2010 05:19 PM
SoCalExile
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

I meant the fiber stuff that's inside the muffler, looks like the maker stuffed a wig in there.

The backfire also made a nasty leak at the collector, so next week I'm getting headers put on along with pipes and glasspacks. I'm kinda liking the nasty, loud muffler sound it has now. Funny since my Ford now sounds like a Chevy.
05-13-2010 10:39 PM
Tex
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

Ah man, that sucks. Well, the fact that unburned fuel was in your exhaust leads me to a possible flooding issue. That it ignited could be due to a poor sealing exhaust valve or residual exhaust heat. But to me it still sounds like there are carb issues.

You say the truck was running great on the way to the store? Idling was okay too? Was it hard to start when you first came out of the store before it sputtered and died?

The fact that the carb was dry but that the pump works fine makes me think the carb leaking down and flooding. Check your dipstick. Does the oil smell like gas or has the oil level risen? If so, it's definitely flooding and you need an oil change because the gasoline has diluted it.

If the carb is flooding the cylinders it could be from a bad power valve or the bowl percolating since you engine might be running hot.

What do you mean by the dead cat coming out of the back?
05-13-2010 05:45 PM
SoCalExile
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

So me and the wife make a run to Wally World in the Goose. It's been running great since I put in a new timing chain, fuel pump, oil pump, water pump, thermostat, Accel wires, new plugs, Accel Super Stock coil, and their points eliminator kit - although it's been running hot according to the temp gauge on the f600 dash I also installed.

So we pull out of the parking space an we're about to leave the lot when the truck sputters and dies. I coast into another spot and try to restart it with no luck. long story short, the carb is bone dry and getting no fuel. I pull the fuel filter and it's clear. I pull the metal fuel line and it's clear. I then crank the engine and fuel shoots out the pump.

I then had to, due to messed up threads on the metal fuel line, go and install a rubber fuel line and make sure fuel comes out of it. I hooked it up to the carb, made sure it was squirting fuel, and cranked it. It turned over and over....[size=150]BOOOM! [/size]

The truck gave the loudest backfire through the exhaust. I cranked it up and I obviously had a hole in the pipes now. I also had what looked like a dead cat coming out from under the back end.

Here's what happened when it backfired:



I drove it home with a very loud exhaust, and with the truck wanting to die at stops.

So now I'm left wondering why my carb was getting no fuel...why it blew a muffler, and whether or not my engine might've been damaged in the process.

I need some thoughts and recommendations.
05-12-2010 04:45 PM
SoCalExile
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

Tore down, cleaned and rebuilt the carb. I believe the overflow problem was because the wire spring thingy on the float assembly (the one that snaps on the bar and the lip on the pump inlet) had gotten loose, which meant the float wasn't doing anything.

I also replaced the starter (which died on me in the parts store parking lot), got new plugs, and Accel wires, coil, and their points eliminator kit and the truck purrs like a kitten now.

It still runs hot, and there are cold spots so I'm going to take it to a radiator guy and have him tell me if it's salvageable.
05-11-2010 08:20 PM
Tex
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

A carb has three fuel metering circuits. The one it idles off of is called the idle circuit and is controlled by the needle screws at the bottom front. 1 and 1/2 turns out is the index setting. In is lean out is rich.

The main circuit is what the carb runs off of when you are under normal driving conditions. It's controlled by the main jets located in the bottom of the fuel bowl. Odds are your jets are pretty worn. Check them for trash like FE said.

The last circuit is the power circuit and it is controlled by the power valve on the bottom of the carb. It allows extra fuel in when the engine vacuum changes under load. A bad power valve will give poor fuel economy and hard warm starts.

How long has it been since the carb was rebuilt? 2100's are the best carb to cut your teeth on. Very simple design, cheap rebuild kits, hard to screw up really.
05-11-2010 05:49 PM
SoCalExile
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

Quote:
Originally Posted by FEandGoingBroke View Post
possible debris in your carb...?
Maybe. I'll have to pull it apart tomorrow and spray it out.
05-11-2010 05:48 PM
SoCalExile
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex View Post
The dying after it idles a while likely has to do with the idle circuit of your carb.
What's an idle circuit?
05-11-2010 05:33 PM
FEandGoingBroke
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

possible debris in your carb...?
05-11-2010 05:13 PM
Tex
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

Great, glad the better cam position has you making more power. The dying after it idles a while likely has to do with the idle circuit of your carb, or perhaps a vacuum leak. How's your PCV system?
05-11-2010 04:33 AM
SoCalExile
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

Well the pros are that the truck runs much, much smoother and doesn't labor to get to highway speed. I also notice more power that rocks the truck when I rev it - seems the motor wants to jump out of the truck now.

One thing that has me confused is that the truck will occasionally die at stops now. when I stop the truck will idle for about 30 seconds then the RPMs will drop and the motor will sputter and die unless I throw it in park and gas it back to life. It doesn't do it all the time, but often.
05-09-2010 10:04 PM
Tex
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

If there is a kickback on the starter, back off the timing just a hair. If it idles fine for a while and then tries to die, that sounds more like a carb problem. With a timing problem it won't idle fine at all. What do you have the idle mixture needles set at?

Even if the carb seemed okay before, it's getting a different signal now that the valve timing is in a better place. There are very few thing you can do to an engine that doesn't affect the carb in some way. It might be your next weak link. Like I said, now that the timing and cam are where they should be, other maladjustments will likely be exposed.
05-09-2010 06:25 PM
SoCalExile
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

It seems that it idles fine for about a minute when stopped, then the idle speed drops and the engine dies - unless I rev it and the process seems to start again.

I do have to crank it alot, and there is a bit of kickback.
05-09-2010 04:23 PM
Tex
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

Idle should be about 600-800 when in drive. What do you mean by harder to start? Does it kick back? Or do you have to crank it a lot?

An initial distributor timing of 8* or 10* is a good place to start. Here's a cut a paste of my distributor timing procedure as I explained it to someone in the "Trouble with my 429" thread a few weeks ago:

"Index setting should just be regarded as a starting point, proper dist timing takes a little more fine tuning. Loosen the dist hold-down bolt just enough to allow the dist to turn. Turn the dist slightly CW (advance). The engine should speed up a little. Tighten the hold-down and test drive it. Is the engine more responsive? Does it clatter under acceleration? If it clatters it's advanced too far and you must back off CCW (retard). If there was no clatter, try a little more advance. Test again. Did this improve power and idle? Generally, the more advance you can run without clattering (detonation) the more power, smoother, and cooler the engine will run. Better mileage too. But don't advance to the point of clatter because that will destroy your pistons. Now you can hook the adv vac back to the signal port on the carb. Test drive again to make sure your total advance (mechanical and vacuum) is not too much. If you do get clattering under acceleration (which you shouldn't if the advance unit is working properly), back off the timing a little at a time until it stops."

Keep in mind now that you've solved the slack timing problem, it might make other problems more evident since you're dealing with a worn engine. But hopefully it will run well enough that you can enjoy it some before the rebuild and make the Texas trip on it's own power.
05-09-2010 10:17 AM
SoCalExile
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

Update:

Got the timing chain in and all put back together. The motor runs better but idles very low and is harder to start. Also, what should I set the advance to with the dizzy?
05-07-2010 06:40 PM
SoCalExile
Re: New guy with a old truck and motor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex View Post
Yeah man, I should have given you more explicit instructions. I've just done this so many times I take some knowledge for granted. That's one of the problems with guiding someone through a process via internet. It's hard to know everyone's background and experience. I should have been more step-by-step instead of just saying "install the timing set 4* advance."

And calling Comp was a smart move on your part since you knew what you didn't know and sought advice from the manufacturer. Only problem is, they always recommend the O setting for two reasons. 1. If it's one of their new cams (which they often assume) then it's already set with 106* for the O setting. 2. If they recommend the stock O setting (even if it is a lousy 109* or other retarded spec) they know it's a safe setting and no valves will hit anything. Either way their butts are covered. The way they see it, changing ANY cam's timing is a risk assumed by the installer. They will give you the means to do it, but that's were their participation stops.

And true, if you are advancing a cam in an unknown setup, ALWAYS, ALWAYS degree in the cam just like the instructions say. But since this is a setup I've done numerous times (and I did degree it in the first few times) I know it's not only safe but effective. That's why I said just bolt in and line up with the 4* advance. Hopefully no valves were "kissed" as FE so eloquently put it. But in the event that some were, well, seeing that the engine is in dire need of a complete rebuild, those valves and pistons were not long for this world anyway. Maybe it's a good this you tried this mod on a worn engine instead of a freshly machined one. You made a mistake, you learned, and you didn't ruin any new or expensive parts. Just keep in mind, that key in the crank snout is always what you go by when positioning the crank. It might be 4* right or 4* left (depending on the sprocket keyway) but it will always near the 12:00 position when the cam is at 6:00.

But let's hope nothing was harmed and that engine can putt it's way to Killeen. Wish Fort Hood was closer so I could give you a hand, but it's a good two hours from Fort Worth.

No worries. I got it put back on right, and in the morning I'll start putting it back together. I should check the valve adjustment anyway...but I've been scared to pop the covers off and see how the seals look.

I'm sure I'll be up your way for a show or meet once I get to Killeen. My truck is a hard one to miss.
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