Received my cam and valve springs kit from Ed @ Flow Tech Induction (FTI) on Friday. Almost didn't get them as he required that I
sign for the package. That is a little hard to do when I am work. Interestingly, I received a call on my cell and it was the Fedex delivery girl. Said it needed signed, but she would drop it off at my work since it was on her way back to the depot. Way cool! Immediately my weekend plans changed from engine compartment painting to motor work.
On Saturday I installed the camshaft and timing chain gears straight up and prepared to degree the cam based on the intake opening at .050. Surprisingly, the intake valve opened precisely at the desired 19BTDC and, just like that, I was done after a couple of seconds of verifying the other cam events. Never in my life have I seen a cam, crank, and timing set that was so accurate together.
Ed's cam card is quite brief in instructions:
From what I can tell from the cam card, it is not a true custom specific for my vehicle and needs. Its one that he has also used before for other vehicles with similar needs. Not an issue if it works. . . .
The Billet HR cam was ground by Comp but was marked as being Ed's:
He ordered it just a couple of days after he received payment.
The given specs look tame compared to last year's solid flat roller. Similar duration, but Ed's cam is shy about .080 in lift. It does have one thing going for it though. The lobes are almost shaped like a dirt track, with flats and similar curves on opposite sides.
Check the high lobe seen just in front of the cam bearing location:
The old Bullet SR cam isn't nearly as wide on the flanks so I envision that Ed is getting the most out of the lift that he is using-something that isn't reflected on the cam card.
Fancy high dollar cam installation tool:
Checking camshaft end play (.006")
Finding true TDC a degree wheel and a piston stop:
Comparing the tech card to the actual cam events:
That was the easy part. Next I checked piston to valve clearance and found my nemesis. I will need to clearance all the pistons approximately .050" for both the intake and the exhaust valves. I used this guys excellent tech article to modify the valve reliefs: https://www.fordmuscleforums.com/engi...-notching.html
I will dremel polish the rough spots after all the pistons have been clearanced.
Clay used to check for valve clearance, both radial and depth:
Lightweight checking springs:
Testing PTV when assembled:
By the end of next weekend I hope to have all the pistons adequately clearanced. Three are done now.
Ed pushes his LS-like small light weight valve springs/retainers/locks. They look puny compared to the big SR spring stuff shown on the right.
Supposedly should be good to 7K+.
Ed still owes me a set of Moral/Luniti link bar HR lifters. Once I get them, I'll measure my pushrod length and order the appropriate set. I also need to get the steel gear for the distributor. I am hopeful that the engine will be done and in the car by the end of February/early March so that I can get a few street miles on it and the clutch before opening day.