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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Valve Springs

I bought a set of AFR heads that were on a solid roller motor. Can I use the valve springs that are on the heads, or do I have to change them?
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014, 02:36 PM
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Re: Valve Springs

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Originally Posted by jsimmonstx View Post
I bought a set of AFR heads that were on a solid roller motor. Can I use the valve springs that are on the heads, or do I have to change them?
That really depends on the cam you are going to use. Typically you see a little higher seat pressure on solid roller cams then hydraulic rollers. You need to find out what your seat pressure and open pressures are and go from there. Ed Curtis at FTI has some nice valve springs for the AFR heads.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 07:10 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Valve Springs

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Originally Posted by cmefly View Post
That really depends on the cam you are going to use. Typically you see a little higher seat pressure on solid roller cams then hydraulic rollers. You need to find out what your seat pressure and open pressures are and go from there. Ed Curtis at FTI has some nice valve springs for the AFR heads.
Well, the original plan was to use a trickflow stage 3 hydraulic, but since the heads are coming off a solid roller motor, I figured I could save a little money/time by not having to replace the springs, so I started looking at the Lunati Voodoo cams. Motor is going to be a Dart big bore 427. Since I'm not planning on putting a lot of miles on the car annually or drag racing it, a solid cam wouldn't be too inconvenient. If the springs have to be changed in order to use a hydraulic cam, I think I'm just gonna go solid and call it a day.

I'll see if I can find out what cam is in the car the heads came off of, and what kind of springs are on it now.

Last edited by jsimmonstx; 03-25-2014 at 07:17 AM.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 03:03 PM
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Re: Valve Springs

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Originally Posted by jsimmonstx View Post
Well, the original plan was to use a trickflow stage 3 hydraulic, but since the heads are coming off a solid roller motor, I figured I could save a little money/time by not having to replace the springs, so I started looking at the Lunati Voodoo cams. Motor is going to be a Dart big bore 427. Since I'm not planning on putting a lot of miles on the car annually or drag racing it, a solid cam wouldn't be too inconvenient. If the springs have to be changed in order to use a hydraulic cam, I think I'm just gonna go solid and call it a day.

I'll see if I can find out what cam is in the car the heads came off of, and what kind of springs are on it now.
No matter what cam you use you will still need to check the open and closed pressures and coil bind. I would check that first before buying a cam. I would never let the $300 dollar cost of a decent set of valve springs dictate the cam I use especially on a $8000 plus dollar engine.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-29-2014, 10:25 AM
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Re: Valve Springs

Since you probably don't know the condition of the springs, at the very least you should take some out and have them checked for spring rate (force vs compressed distance). Then you can calculate the seat and open pressures as well if you measure the free height of the spring. I would probably change springs to some that matched the cam. It's much more of a pain to do it later, and you'll know exactly how they're set up and can make sure you don't have coil bind or wipe the cam lobes/break the lifters. For under $50, you can also get one of those spring height micrometers to see what the installed height will be. It's not really very difficult, and you know where to go to get help (right here, of course!)

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