Rings, Bearings, and Gaskets - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-18-2014, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Rings, Bearings, and Gaskets

I am beginning to source all of the parts I will need to build my 408W and I've got a couple of questions, but before that, I'll give y'all the low down on what I'm working with.

I plan to re-use the following parts from my current setup.

- '69 351W block
- AFR 185 heads
- Vic. Jr intake
- 750 Holley
- 1.6 Rockers
- picked up a cheap windage tray at a swap meet

I'm not shooting for the stars on hp/tq #'s, I want something I can still drive on the street reliably, on pump gas, and still be able to tear down the track with some respectable numbers. I know the 185's and 750 will be the cork in this equation but those will be swapped out later on down the road. I'm aiming to build the bottom end well enough to where I don't have to worry about it later on down the road. With that being said, I'm looking at a bunch of different options and would like to have some direction with the following questions:

1. What are the best kind of rings for this build? Brand? Material?
2. Bearings? Cam bearings, rod bearings, main bearings..etc..
3. Head gaskets? Material? Thickness?
4. Is it better to piece together a correctly matched combo or get a full rotating assembly?
5. Any good or bad brand of timing set?
6. Good brand of hardened pushrods?

As far as parts I'm replacing and what I've sourced so far, I'm looking at Scat rotating assemblies, forged 4340 crank, internal or externally balanced, forged h-beam rods, forged flat tops, standard volume/pressure oil pump, hardened oil pump driveshaft, canton 6-7 qt pan, ARP main and intake studs, double roller timing set, Fel-Pro gaskets, SFI balancer and flywheel.

So to sum it all up, what do you guys see that is a no-no and what to stay away from or what would you do different? What am I missing? I know budget is always a limiting factor and a question that is inevitably brought up in every build. I can't say its $10K like I wish it was but at the same time, like I said before, I want to build it right..

-69 Mustang - 351W AFR 185, Vic Jr, .512 @ 232, 750 Holley, WC T5, 4.30 TruTrac, CalTracs
12.63 @ 107mph 1.70 60'
-66 Fairlane - project car / road race
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-19-2014, 11:46 AM
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Re: Rings, Bearings, and Gaskets

Originally Posted by hepcat69 View Post
... I'm not shooting for the stars on hp/tq #'s, I want something I can still drive on the street reliably, on pump gas, and still be able to tear down the track with some respectable numbers. I know the 185's and 750 will be the cork in this equation but those will be swapped out later on down the road. I'm aiming to build the bottom end well enough to where I don't have to worry about it later on down the road. ...
At this point, you are over-spending with over-building. I can't help for what you may do one day, as you never said what that was. If you are going to build to "one day", you need to know and say specifically what that is.


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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-21-2014, 09:03 PM
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Re: Rings, Bearings, and Gaskets

i just did worked this up for a guy for a 392. some of the info might help.

the rings come with the kits but plasma moly is very popular.

BLOCK – It is easier to get a late model 1971 and later block. The roller 351’s started in 94 with a casting of F4. These blocks frequently crack in #2 and #4 cam journal are, therefore I would not use one for ANY build. The 71 and later blocks are also .020” taller which is what you need for this kit. If your block is a 69, it is worth some money. It might cost around $700.00 by the time it's sitting in the builders shop, just ask them. See photo of journal crack in link below.



Afr 195 renegade $1800.00, or possibly the AFR 205 Renegade if you use the Comp Cams XE284H cam. The builder can do the math to determine this. I’m a bit lazy..

Flow – in 287 ex 220 @ .500, chamber 72 cc’s


Machine head surface approx .012” to 70cc's if you use the XE284h cam with no advance, mill them approx .006" to 71 cc's if you advance it 4 degrees.


Square block – This is unnecessary on mild builds but its nice to do to even out compression in all cylinders. I would recommend it on yours.

Deck block so pistons are .002" - .004" below the surface. This increases compression and reduces potential for detonation at the same time.


Scorpion “race” model full roller aluminum.


Non rollers

Comp cams XE 274H for bottom to mid range power. It will have a noticeable “lope” at idle but will not be excessive. The car will shake/vibrate a little.

XE284H for mid to top end power. You can also advance this cam 4 degrees to lower the power band slightly. It will still be higher than the XE274H. It will have a very noticeable idle but not excessive/obnoxious. The car will definitely shake a little. Anything bigger cam than this is more than I think you are looking for.

Add $300.00 - $500.00 for a roller cam. I might use Lunati for roller lifters, they are made by morel..

CAM BREAK IN - This must be done by the builder die to the high spring rates in the heads. He can send it out to be done.

PUSH RODS - 3/8" Chromolly

TIMING CHAIN Cloyes double roller with 0 or 2 degrees cam advance $45.00.


If block is align bored you need a shorter chain



Crane high rev $140.00

CRANK DAMPER – get the one with the correct number of holes for your crank pulley. The 7 hole dampers fit both.

Summit SFI certified- certified $145.00

ATI SFI certified - I would run this one to reduce crank vibration and twist


ROD BOLTS – ARP or Chinese forged rods with SRP bolts.

INTAKE - Edelbrock non rpm or similar.

ENGINE BALANCE - $175.00 - $200.00

Scat 393 assy $1050.00

I would have them upgrade to this crank for an extra $100.00.


STATIC COMPRESSION - With .030” over bore, 10.473

Last edited by barnett468; 06-21-2014 at 09:06 PM.
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