Re: 352 to a Stroker
No prob, you're welcome . . Here's some more info for you.
I definitely do not believe that bigger is always better even if the cost to go bigger is the same . . There is such a thing as too much of a good thing or more power [and less mileage] than one wants or needs.
There is not one good thing on the list below imo.
Boring the engine out to .050", is not a big deal if the cylinder thickness is ok . . Going to .080" even if they are ok is something I wouldn't do in your case . . Although some people have done this, imo, it is not a prudent thing to do because you first have to have the cylinder walls sonic checked to make sure they are thick enough, and this can cost around $250.00 . . Some of the problems are that they could be thin on one side due to a core shift and/or they could be thin in areas from 50 years of rust eating away at them inside the water jacket.
Also, even if you get away with boring it out that far, what are you going to do if you keep it long enough to need to bore it again?
Also, the more stroke you have, the greater the cooling requirements are.
The thinner the cylinder walls are, the greater the cooling requirements are.
The heavier the car is, the greater the cooling requirements are.
There are several good things on the list below imo.
Imo, the safest thing to do is simply use a 3.98, or 4.125 crank and have a set of custom pistons made . . I have had lots of custom pistons made . . JE will make them for around $900.00 . . Some of the other places will make them for around $800.00 . . The PROBE stroker pistons are around $550.00 . . If you add $550.00 to the $250.00 the sonic check would cost, you are at $800.00 . . For just 0 dollars more than that amount, you can have custom pistons made, and for $150.00 more, you can have a set of one of the best pistons on the market, PLUS there will be no concern that your engine will be hard to cool in your 4,000 lb car, AND you can still bore it out again if you need.
If your bore is good enough, you can just get pistons made that are only .010" or .020" bigger which will preserve even more of your cylinder wall thickness.
A 3.980" crank with a 4.030" bore = 406 ci.
A 4.125" crank with a 4.030" bore = 420 ci.
I can tell you that increasing a 302 engine 45 ci to 347 ci, then adding even just a mild performance cam and a little better head flow etc, is a very noticeable increase in power.
Increasing a 352 by 54 ci to a 406, and adding a even just a mild performance cam and a little better head flow etc, is a very noticeable increase in power.
It will not turn it into a fire breathing tire burner with mild mods, but even just doing stroking it to 406 ci and getting a little more head, intake and exhaust flow, will make a day and night difference in power, AND if you also change the rear gears by even 1 step with this increase in engine power, it will be a BIG change.
I would opt for the 406 over the 390 at the very least . . If you want big time bottom and mid range torque, I would go 420 . . The cost is exactly the same
Even with the 4.125 stroke and 6.7" long rod, the rod ratio is still a very favorable 1.62.
A 347 stroker with the long rod is around 1.5, which is worse and they rev those to 6,000 rpm all the time.
Last edited by barnett468; 09-07-2015 at 07:09 PM.