Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Central West Virginia
Re: solid roller
When stuck between two camshafts, always choose the smaller one. We're wired to like 'bigger'... and we generally skew our choices in that direction. 99% of the time, when you are stuck between two cams, the smaller is the better choice. The advertised rpm range is the ideal power range. With nice heads, ideal shift points will be about 500 rpm above that... so keep that in mind.
This being said, most solid rollers are generally best for very limited street duty. Some have more aggressive ramps than others. Aggressive (steep) ramps are hard on parts. A full race solid roller will not be friendly on the related parts. This being said, I LIKE solid cams. I don't mind the lash adjustments, etc. I've always run solid flat tappets. Perfect street cams for a high revving small block, as long as you don't mind checking/adjusting lash every so often. If you want to zing it 7k rpm, solids offer a significant performance boost. 6500 rpm or less, and I'd use a hydraulic roller.
As for solid rollers. Comp Cams sells a line of solid rollers that are intended for the street. They have milder lash take up ramps that makes them easier on parts. For something I wanted to put miles on, I'd consider one of those. Either that, or call Bullet Cams, and get a custom unit from them that suits your needs. Not that much of a price difference.
Be sure to use the proper distributor gear. Flat tappet cams are iron, and require an iron gear. Roller cams are steel, and require either a melonized or bronze gear. The bronze gear is 'sacrificial'. It is a wear item that needs replaced occasionally. The melonized gear is permanent. Hydraulic rollers use the melonized gear, but you can get some rollers with a melonized cam gear installed that allow the safe use of the melonized distributor gear. Ask the cam company about the option.