Howdy all I'm new here, alright here's the lowdown.
I'm about to start building my first motor, I haven't purchased any parts yet but anyways, my starting point is going to be a 351 Windsor roller block, I'm going to keep the stock bore size and only finish hone the cylinders, I've got a quote for an all forged rotating assembly from Coast HP for 2 grand, TMoss quoted a port job on a GT40 upper and lower for about 400, I'll be using Aussie 302C 2v heads ("small" ports/closed chambers) and get the GT40 ported to match the Cleveland ports, I found an adapter for a 351w block with 351c 4v heads to mount a 351w intake so although its twice the gaskets I can keep the EFI and stuff simple, and I'll be going with a custom ground cam.
Now I need some advice on setting up the valvetrain, I've done some searching and turned up nothing, are there any major differences in setting it up? What would be the parts I should use?
Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
One thing I would recommend is that you get a bore gauge on those cylinders and make sure they are straight and the clearances will work out right, to check it accurately bolt the heads on and go from the bottom. I think you will find three things, the bore will be all over the place, clearances will be loose, and the decks won't be square. Especially if you are going with a 4032 piston, which you likely should for an EFI street car. I'd also shoot for a .040-.045 quench distance, if you don't keep it tight you give up the benefits of the Aussie head and its good chamber and squish
The build will go much better even with a minor overbore and torque plate hone and square deck, it'll last longer, make more power and just overall be better
As far as setting up the valvetrain, should be easy, measure intalled height on your heads, match open and closed pressure to your cam, use quality components. Use adjustable rockers and mock up the pushrod length until you get the pattern you want, then order that length
Don't be afraid to do a little rubbing on those heads, they can use it, also, I assume you are using a Factory EEC-IV computer, it'll run OK stock, but to really get there, you'll need to size injectors correctly and get into the tune. I use the Quarterhorse chip and Binary Editor on a laptop to tune my EFI 489 inch FE