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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Tearing stuff off the engine to make many upgrades. I also plan on putting on a 1 wire alternator and removing the factory regulator and harness. I have posted this before and many have said that all I have to do is unplug and remove the harness. However I see 2 wires that run into the firewall. I do not know what these 2 wires are and if I can just cut them. Anyone know what these wires are? Everything else seems like it can be removed. What did you guys do with the 2 wires that run inside through the firewall?
 

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I'll jump-in first to suggest the obvious alternative - a Ford 3G alternator. The GM 1-wire alternators are less efficient, require pascers to adapt, do not have as much power at lower revs or idle (even the "200A" versions), do not charge unless initially revved to kick it into charging, do not have voltage sensing at the power distribution point, and do not provide function for either a charge warning light or ammeter. Oh, and they cost a lot more for all that. Use a mid-90s Thunderbird or Mustang V6 or 5.0L alternator to get all that back and for far less cash to boot.

BTW - your two wires are for voltage sensing (YEL) and charge indicator light or ammeter (RED/GRN). With a 1-wire you would cut them. With a 3G, you just hook them to the same color wires on the alternator. Done. Everything works.
:tup:
David

PS: I don't mean to sound adamant about it, but there is simply no reason to run the GM 1-wire alternators. There was before the Ford 3G came along 20 years ago, and now the GM 1-wire alternators have no benefits and several negatives. It's time to kill the urban legend about them. BTW - the 3G can be run as a 1-wire as well - but why when it's soooo simple?
 

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PS: I don't mean to sound adamant about it, but there is simply no reason to run the GM 1-wire alternators. There was before the Ford 3G came along 20 years ago, and now the GM 1-wire alternators have no benefits and several negatives. It's time to kill the urban legend about them. BTW - the 3G can be run as a 1-wire as well - but why when it's soooo simple?
^^^ What He Said X2.

GM one wires are for farm tractors.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Too late. Already bought the 1 wire so Im not gonna turn back now. Also Jegs sells them model specific for Ford.
 

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I'll jump-in first to suggest the obvious alternative - a Ford 3G alternator. The GM 1-wire alternators are less efficient, require pascers to adapt, do not have as much power at lower revs or idle (even the "200A" versions), do not charge unless initially revved to kick it into charging, do not have voltage sensing at the power distribution point, and do not provide function for either a charge warning light or ammeter. Oh, and they cost a lot more for all that. Use a mid-90s Thunderbird or Mustang V6 or 5.0L alternator to get all that back and for far less cash to boot.

BTW - your two wires are for voltage sensing (YEL) and charge indicator light or ammeter (RED/GRN). With a 1-wire you would cut them. With a 3G, you just hook them to the same color wires on the alternator. Done. Everything works.
:tup:
David

PS: I don't mean to sound adamant about it, but there is simply no reason to run the GM 1-wire alternators. There was before the Ford 3G came along 20 years ago, and now the GM 1-wire alternators have no benefits and several negatives. It's time to kill the urban legend about them. BTW - the 3G can be run as a 1-wire as well - but why when it's soooo simple?
I was once swayed by the stories around the famous "GM one wire" years ago, until I mentioned it to a GM Tech and he basically told me everything you just wrote and a few more choice things as well. I certainly learned a valuable lesson about automotive hearsay! It is actually amazing to me that after all this time the myth of the "one wire" still endures.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Do not know what the "myth" is, but my alt. is bad and I just wanted something easy and clean. I have always had 1 wires in my past cars with no problems.
 

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I didn't say they don't work. Sure, they charge. But, you're paying more for less capability. It's like paying for a stroker and getting a 2-barrel 302. If you have it - run it. But, if you are getting ready to drop the cash for one, I wouldn't spend more to get less.

David
 

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Big Whoopin deal...I don't get it...Doesn't the original stuff work anymore? I'm sure SOMEBODY at FoMoCo spent at least a few minutes figuring it all out...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Big Whoopin deal...I don't get it...Doesn't the original stuff work anymore? I'm sure SOMEBODY at FoMoCo spent at least a few minutes figuring it all out...
What does this post even mean?
 

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What it means is...Why does everyone always want to spend money and time modifiying off-brand parts to do the same thing that an off the shelf part will do.

:tup:--:tup:--:tup:--Well said--:)--Originals always kept my batteries charged up . I even put the Generator back on my 64 to keep it original .Most people in their right mind would not do that , but it is a restoration and that makes it correct for parts.--:)--But we all don't go for the same thing to make us happy .:D
 

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I think (IMO) that the main reason is fear of electrical circuits and wiring.

What upsets me is that one is willing to cut into an OEM harness to install this monstrosity. You can buy or have built (or there are kits to do it yourself) to pump up an original 1G.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Alt. was a Christmas present. I might have kept the stock style if you guys weighed in before when I asked about 1 wires in previous post.... But I have the 1 wire now because my stock one is shot. So the 2 wires going inside can be cut; correct?
 

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I second it on just pulling the wires inside and taping them up for the next owner should they want the use of them. I bought a truck a few months ago where some body had changed things around with their own creative wiring ,it's been a mess trying to get it all working correct now.
 

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You don't need to explain your self about what you want to do with your car.

I've done the 1 wire alternator and it's been almcst a year with no adverse affect. I put in an Alpine head unit, Infinity speakers, JL audio 500w mono power amp, and JL subs. The stock alternator made everything dim during night driving specially when I have my stereo cranked up playing AC/DC or Black Sabbath.

If someone's going to lecture me about keeping my car stock- then buy my Falcon. The set up is simple- no need to cut any wires. Just disassemble the stock alternator, and zip tie the wires for clean look.

Here's what I wrote up on it and along with the 1 wire alternator I picked up:

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/fal...nd-fix-1-wire-alternator-headlight-relay.html

You need a Mega fuse just in case. If you have Oreilly's, they sell them much cheaper vs. online stores. Here's the link for the holder.
Littelfuse 298900 - Fuse Holder | O'Reilly Auto Parts I forgot the item number for the fuse itself, but they can look it up when you order the holder.

Good luck and Happy New Years!




Alt. was a Christmas present. I might have kept the stock style if you guys weighed in before when I asked about 1 wires in previous post.... But I have the 1 wire now because my stock one is shot. So the 2 wires going inside can be cut; correct?
 
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